Dura Coat?

K

King_chin0

Moderator
So I have been on the DuraCoat website, it sounds wayyyy too easy to apply the coating. Is there any info you can give me? Also, when spraying the frame and slide, what all do I need to cover up? And how should I let it dry, because I can't just let it lay there, do I hang it up? If so how would you recommend hanging it?

Do I have to prep the gun before applying the coat? Like sand it down etc? I has a Colt 1911, and am looking tp do my own DuraCoat, wouldn't the coat just slide right off the original coating?
 
I dpends how tight the gun is to start out with? Mine all being fitted, I would limit paint coatings to the exterior, meaning what I can see when the gun is assembled and in battery. Call DuraCoat and ask whether their coating will stand up to sliding action in a gun that isn't too tight for it in the first place? I believe their instructions describe necessary preparation. A wire through the firing pin tunnel will let you hand a slide.

Nick
 
The Colt I have should be able to with stand the coating since it is not fitted. Also, do you paint the instide too, or just the exterior?

Thanks Nick :)
 
Duracoat

The site will tell you how to prep the gun. I think it is RECOMMENDED to park it first. I have heard others say that they have not done this, nor blasted it, and it was fine - but I've NEVER seen a follow up post a year down the road.

Yes, you will probably have to hang it. You WILL have to ensure that it is clean and free of oil or anything else. If you can detail strip, you need to.

I have used Gun Kote, and it will NOT affect tolerances noticeably. I sprayed all over my slide raisl etc., and it did NOTHING affecting the guns function.
 
OK, thanx. Yea I thought they said something bout useing parkarize as a base. What about the interior of the fram, ramp etc
 
I use my oven as my paint-drying booth. It seems to be the best place to hang small parts without lint or dust getting stuck to the paint.

I have the ability to use my kitchen for all kinds of cosmo removal/gun restos because we use my fiance's kitchen for cooking.
 
I wouldn't use sand blast around the feed ramp to prep an aluminum frame.

My only experience with the coatings is that I bought a Pre 70 Commander that had been 'Moly Coated'. Feed ing is unreliable, will not chamber from slide lock.

I t could be that a less than successful attempt at 'polishing the ramp' had been covered with the Moly Coat, or as has been suggested, someone got too aggressive in the sand blast cabinet around the feed ramp area.

I dunno. But, as we speak, the LW Commander is winging its way to Chuck Rogers at Rogers Precision for istallation of a steel insert in the feed ramp.

salty.
 
Guess the guy should have cover the feed ramp. Put thick masking tape on it or something, other then feed ramp etc, I can pretty much cover the entire fram including the inside with the stuff right?
 
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I dunno.

After I bought a 'Moly Coated' Commander, I started looking into the 'Moly Coat' stuff, I found that there are different flavors of 'Moly'...Not all 'shake and bake' coatings are 'Moly'. I bought a used BHP slide that has some sort of 'baked on' finish. The finish comes off with removal of masking tape. Some other home applied finishes are, supposedly, as durable as anything short of hard chrome plating.


There are some top of the line 'smiths that offer various coatings on some serious platforms. I doubt that these finishes will come off with masking tape adhesive.

Virgil Tripp and Rogers Precision come immediately to mind. Some 'smiths even offer the coatings in colors. I recently saw an photo of an AR where some of the aftermarket parts, stock and forearm, were coated pink in color.

salty.
 
I know Gun Kote recommends the Parkerizing (this is for conventional carbon steel only - aluminum and stainles won't Parkerize, and aluminum is damaged by Parkerizing solutions, so don't even try). Specifically they want zinc Parkerizing (more porous and a little harder than manganese) and for best results they are particular about the grade of the blasting medium. This is a finish that was developed for Navy Seal weapons and is thin enough not to cause interference in a stock weapons if Parkerizing does not. Ten Ring sells it OEM and has a pretty thorough rundown on the application. It is an inside and out coating.

Lauer Duracoat is another matter, tending, as it does, to remain flexible, I don't know how thick the coatings are? Since it claims to like Parkerizing as a base, I would assume the blasting information at Tenring would apply to prepping to phosphate steel before applying Duracoat, too.

Nick
 
Sorry fot the misunderstanding. What i ment was, when he sprayed on the coat, he should've cover the feed ramp with masking tape
 
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