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Dumb Question
- Thread starter 300winguy
- Start date
Don Mallard
New member
What is the model of your wheeler?
What ammo are you shooting?
How far from the target-and type- are you shooting?
Don Mallard
What ammo are you shooting?
How far from the target-and type- are you shooting?
Don Mallard
Maybe I am out to lunch, but I don't know of any S&W's with a drift adjustable rear sight. Either they have fully adjustable target sights or a notch in the top strap.
If the sights are adjustable, please don't try pounding on anything; use a screwdriver to adjust the sight for windage.
You always move a rear sight the direction you want to move the shots. So if your shots are to the left, you want to move the sight to the right. On an S&W adjustable sight, this means turning the screw on the side of the sight to the right, or clockwise.
Jim
If the sights are adjustable, please don't try pounding on anything; use a screwdriver to adjust the sight for windage.
You always move a rear sight the direction you want to move the shots. So if your shots are to the left, you want to move the sight to the right. On an S&W adjustable sight, this means turning the screw on the side of the sight to the right, or clockwise.
Jim
It is a S&W 686. I am shooting handloaded 158gr. Winchester JHP on top of 11.2 grains of bluedot. Every weight bullet I have tried e.g. 125,145,158,170, have all shot to the left(including factory ammo) at 25 yards. I am having a hard time getting the group to move right. I never really have given a thought that it could just be me. Sounds like a good idea to let someone else try it. I think I will also try moving the sight far to the right and see if it move the point of impact over. Thanks for the help.
MeekAndMild
New member
Maybe something like these type targets would help??
C.R. Sam has the best idea though, to shoot a little bit wrong handed.
C.R. Sam has the best idea though, to shoot a little bit wrong handed.
Don Mallard
New member
For each click on the screw you will change to POI one quarter of a inch.
Let a pro shot shoot it a few times.
He/she can then set your sights for you.
I won't take for granted what you know or don't.
I suggest you find a particular load which you will be shooting--have a knowledgeable handgunner set your sights and then you and the gun will be set.
It takes a proper combination of a few basic things for your revolver to be accurate in your hands.
# A accurate load
# Grips which fit your hand properly--so as to allow the gun to point 'level' as opposed to pointing 'high'(which the S&W presentation grips will do)
# A smooth action for double and single action fire----they do not come from the factory as smooth as they should be.
# The proper placement of your trigger finger which will allow you to 'draw' the trigger straight back in a manner which 'does-not' cause the muzzle to cant to either side.
That is some of the basic recipie for a accurate wheel gun shooter.
If you want to break world speed records with your revolver thne you need to use an entirely different approach and then you won't be a real fast shot unless you have some God given fast reflexes.
I think it is past time for American Handgunners to get back to the basics of 'accurate' handgun practices.
I am privy to the next bit of info which was published by our illustrious FBI--------
In 1999 the percentage of all handgun shots to hit their intended target by non-LEO in our land was 10%
The Law Men were 'twice' as good----they hit their intended target 20% of the time................
Don Mallard
Let a pro shot shoot it a few times.
He/she can then set your sights for you.
I won't take for granted what you know or don't.
I suggest you find a particular load which you will be shooting--have a knowledgeable handgunner set your sights and then you and the gun will be set.
It takes a proper combination of a few basic things for your revolver to be accurate in your hands.
# A accurate load
# Grips which fit your hand properly--so as to allow the gun to point 'level' as opposed to pointing 'high'(which the S&W presentation grips will do)
# A smooth action for double and single action fire----they do not come from the factory as smooth as they should be.
# The proper placement of your trigger finger which will allow you to 'draw' the trigger straight back in a manner which 'does-not' cause the muzzle to cant to either side.
That is some of the basic recipie for a accurate wheel gun shooter.
If you want to break world speed records with your revolver thne you need to use an entirely different approach and then you won't be a real fast shot unless you have some God given fast reflexes.
I think it is past time for American Handgunners to get back to the basics of 'accurate' handgun practices.
I am privy to the next bit of info which was published by our illustrious FBI--------
In 1999 the percentage of all handgun shots to hit their intended target by non-LEO in our land was 10%
The Law Men were 'twice' as good----they hit their intended target 20% of the time................
Don Mallard
Mike Irwin
Staff
"For each click on the screw you will change to POI one quarter of a inch."
At what distance? 25 yards? I've never been too clear on how S&W regulated the clicks on their rear sights...
But, remember, sight adjustments are variable for distance.
A 1/4" movement at 25 yards will move the point of impact 1" at 100 yards (1/2" at 50 yards, 3/4" at 75 yards...)
At what distance? 25 yards? I've never been too clear on how S&W regulated the clicks on their rear sights...
But, remember, sight adjustments are variable for distance.
A 1/4" movement at 25 yards will move the point of impact 1" at 100 yards (1/2" at 50 yards, 3/4" at 75 yards...)
300, allow me a moment.....
One moves the rear sight in the direction you wish to change the point of impact. If the shots are hitting left, move rear sight right. Your 686 has adjustable sights. The screw on the right hand side of the sight assembly should be turned clockwise to move bullet impact right. The screw on top adjusts elevation. Clockwise is down.
Examine your target and groups. If the groups are round, and uniformly filled, your are doing what you should be doing. If the groups are oval in shape, either horizontal, vertical or diagonal, your technique requires refining.
Presuming groups are round as appropriate, if they are not centered on your aim point, then move the sights.
A word of caution: Any expert may shoot better than you, but they may or may not shoot to the same point of aim as you. Pay attention to their shooting tips, but adjust your own sights. Any knowledgable shooter will tell you as much.
Do not expect one setting to work for all loads and bullet weights. Bullet weight will change elevation, and sometimes windage too.
Much practise will make it simpler. Mr. Mallard's suggestion of mild action work and grips that fit you are very appropriate.
One moves the rear sight in the direction you wish to change the point of impact. If the shots are hitting left, move rear sight right. Your 686 has adjustable sights. The screw on the right hand side of the sight assembly should be turned clockwise to move bullet impact right. The screw on top adjusts elevation. Clockwise is down.
Examine your target and groups. If the groups are round, and uniformly filled, your are doing what you should be doing. If the groups are oval in shape, either horizontal, vertical or diagonal, your technique requires refining.
Presuming groups are round as appropriate, if they are not centered on your aim point, then move the sights.
A word of caution: Any expert may shoot better than you, but they may or may not shoot to the same point of aim as you. Pay attention to their shooting tips, but adjust your own sights. Any knowledgable shooter will tell you as much.
Do not expect one setting to work for all loads and bullet weights. Bullet weight will change elevation, and sometimes windage too.
Much practise will make it simpler. Mr. Mallard's suggestion of mild action work and grips that fit you are very appropriate.
Don Mallard
New member
The 'one-click' for one quarter inch is for wadcutter ammo at 25 yds. Put a golf ball on the target center. Benchrest the gun at 25 yds--single action. Align the sights left and right--fill the rear sights with the front sight---full. Then 'SEE' the golf ball sitting on top of your front sight. Then your gun is supposed to hit the ball every shot----with good accurate ammo.
When a shooter can do that then the 2" circle--such as on a NRA PPC B-27 target--will be his aim point once the golf ball is removed. I doesn't take but a few rounds --at a B-27--to 'know' how to aim in order to hit dead center.------------------------------
I like to see 50 rounds from a rest and single action by them---at 25yds.
If the majority of the shots are say-to the right- then make the left-right adjustment------if the group needs to go 'right' then turn the side screw to the right. for up---turn the screw counterclockwise.Truth of the matter, in some cases, is that no matter how you set the sights some handgunners still can't shoot a good tight group! A sheet of black poster paper with a bright 2" center of industrial orange is a good target to shoot for. At 50 yds--the end of a Coke can makes a excellent 'center' to aim at. The bright aluminum is easy to 'see-and-sit' on top of your front sight. --------------------------------------------------------------------
It is very easy to see how a new load or new shooter is grouping after 50 rounds.
It just takes a string of shots to see a 'majority-group' pattern emerge.
It is for that reason that the humble 38 special wadcutter is a ideal test load. That load will shoot a 2" group from the 7 all the way to the 50yd line. If a shooter 'thinks' his gun or particular load is 'to-blame' then the 50 round wadcutter test will tell the tale.
The only way this thread starter will settle on a load for his gun is to actually load a whole variety of different componets and shoot them..........no doubt about it. AND that is the reason I don't have a vast number of guns. It takes years to master one particular gun and there is literally not enough time to master a whole range of different guns. We have seen how long it actually takes to find the best load for a specific gun----and once we have found it then that is the combination which gives us confidence when we shoot it. One of the best civilian handgunners I knew only had one handgun. A old model Ruger Flattop in 41 mag. He discovered a tack driving combination using IMR 4227 powder and a Sierra 210 grn jacketed bullet.
All of us who have been handgunning for some time have,indeed, discovered our pet loads for our guns. You just have to pay your dues and your time to discover 'that'--load.
Don Mallard
When a shooter can do that then the 2" circle--such as on a NRA PPC B-27 target--will be his aim point once the golf ball is removed. I doesn't take but a few rounds --at a B-27--to 'know' how to aim in order to hit dead center.------------------------------
I like to see 50 rounds from a rest and single action by them---at 25yds.
If the majority of the shots are say-to the right- then make the left-right adjustment------if the group needs to go 'right' then turn the side screw to the right. for up---turn the screw counterclockwise.Truth of the matter, in some cases, is that no matter how you set the sights some handgunners still can't shoot a good tight group! A sheet of black poster paper with a bright 2" center of industrial orange is a good target to shoot for. At 50 yds--the end of a Coke can makes a excellent 'center' to aim at. The bright aluminum is easy to 'see-and-sit' on top of your front sight. --------------------------------------------------------------------
It is very easy to see how a new load or new shooter is grouping after 50 rounds.
It just takes a string of shots to see a 'majority-group' pattern emerge.
It is for that reason that the humble 38 special wadcutter is a ideal test load. That load will shoot a 2" group from the 7 all the way to the 50yd line. If a shooter 'thinks' his gun or particular load is 'to-blame' then the 50 round wadcutter test will tell the tale.
The only way this thread starter will settle on a load for his gun is to actually load a whole variety of different componets and shoot them..........no doubt about it. AND that is the reason I don't have a vast number of guns. It takes years to master one particular gun and there is literally not enough time to master a whole range of different guns. We have seen how long it actually takes to find the best load for a specific gun----and once we have found it then that is the combination which gives us confidence when we shoot it. One of the best civilian handgunners I knew only had one handgun. A old model Ruger Flattop in 41 mag. He discovered a tack driving combination using IMR 4227 powder and a Sierra 210 grn jacketed bullet.
All of us who have been handgunning for some time have,indeed, discovered our pet loads for our guns. You just have to pay your dues and your time to discover 'that'--load.
Don Mallard