Dumb question: Spent case vs. $18 snap caps?
- Thread starter shovel99
- Start date
Coop de Ville
New member
I use spent casings as snap caps.
-Coop
To be honest, I don't dry fire maybe once or twice a week.... I usually don't use anything.
-Coop
To be honest, I don't dry fire maybe once or twice a week.... I usually don't use anything.
Ace of Spades
New member
I can think of a few reasons:
1) Confusion with live ammo. You need to be more careful when using spent loads to make certain that you aren't dropping the hammer on a live round by mistake.
2) Powder residue. I find that I've gotten the chamber and barrel contaminated with the remains of the burnt powder from the impact of firing pin on the spent case.
3) Longevity. Spent cases just don't last that long when dry firing before the FP perforates the primer.
1) Confusion with live ammo. You need to be more careful when using spent loads to make certain that you aren't dropping the hammer on a live round by mistake.
2) Powder residue. I find that I've gotten the chamber and barrel contaminated with the remains of the burnt powder from the impact of firing pin on the spent case.
3) Longevity. Spent cases just don't last that long when dry firing before the FP perforates the primer.
I punch out the spent primer and put rubber erasers out of cheap mechanical pencils in the primer pocket. (Might need a little trimming depending on the primer size)
This answers (at least in my opinion) #2 and #3 above, and possibly #1 as well. For #2 - The firing pin hitting the eraser reduces the impact, minimizing the 'cr@p' that comes out of the empty case. In any case, it is a small matter to clean the insides of cases with a proper sized bristle tip. For #3 - longetivity is immense! The rubber will get beat up after awhile, but you can take it out and turn it around. For #1 - with a modicum of awareness, you will notice the eraser is not a primer, but if you tend to be a quart low on awareness and that doesn't work for ya, see below
Another answer to #1 is to 'paint' the cartridge and head with black (or any color) permanent marker. Then it don't look like a 'real' case.
When I am out of erasers (it happens
) I use squirt a dab of silicone sealer in the primer pocket and let it harden, and trim as required. It doesn't last as long as the eraser, but is easily replaced.
This answers (at least in my opinion) #2 and #3 above, and possibly #1 as well. For #2 - The firing pin hitting the eraser reduces the impact, minimizing the 'cr@p' that comes out of the empty case. In any case, it is a small matter to clean the insides of cases with a proper sized bristle tip. For #3 - longetivity is immense! The rubber will get beat up after awhile, but you can take it out and turn it around. For #1 - with a modicum of awareness, you will notice the eraser is not a primer, but if you tend to be a quart low on awareness and that doesn't work for ya, see below
Another answer to #1 is to 'paint' the cartridge and head with black (or any color) permanent marker. Then it don't look like a 'real' case.
When I am out of erasers (it happens
) I use squirt a dab of silicone sealer in the primer pocket and let it harden, and trim as required. It doesn't last as long as the eraser, but is easily replaced.I punch out the spent primer and put rubber erasers out of cheap mechanical pencils in the primer pocket. (Might need a little trimming depending on the primer size)
This answers (at least in my opinion) #2 and #3 above, and possibly #1 as well. For #2 - The firing pin hitting the eraser reduces the impact, minimizing the 'cr@p' that comes out of the empty case. In any case, it is a small matter to clean the insides of cases with a proper sized bristle tip. For #3 - longetivity is immense! The rubber will get beat up after awhile, but you can take it out and turn it around. For #1 - with a modicum of awareness, you will notice the eraser is not a primer, but if you tend to be a quart low on awareness and that doesn't work for ya, see below
Another answer to #1 is to 'paint' the cartridge and head with black (or any color) permanent marker. Then it don't look like a 'real' case.
When I am out of erasers (it happens ) I squirt a dab of silicone sealer in the primer pocket and let it harden, and trim as required. It doesn't last as long as the eraser, but is easily replaced.
This answers (at least in my opinion) #2 and #3 above, and possibly #1 as well. For #2 - The firing pin hitting the eraser reduces the impact, minimizing the 'cr@p' that comes out of the empty case. In any case, it is a small matter to clean the insides of cases with a proper sized bristle tip. For #3 - longetivity is immense! The rubber will get beat up after awhile, but you can take it out and turn it around. For #1 - with a modicum of awareness, you will notice the eraser is not a primer, but if you tend to be a quart low on awareness and that doesn't work for ya, see below
Another answer to #1 is to 'paint' the cartridge and head with black (or any color) permanent marker. Then it don't look like a 'real' case.
When I am out of erasers (it happens
) I squirt a dab of silicone sealer in the primer pocket and let it harden, and trim as required. It doesn't last as long as the eraser, but is easily replaced.
22-rimfire
New member
I use spent cases in revolvers or empty cylinders for occasional snapping. The main problem is the possiblity of having a live round in the cylinder and mistaking it for a spent one. I am a bit paranoid to this issue as I once shot an "unloaded" revolver in my house. I went into shock over my mistake as I could easily have hurt (or worse) someone. I handled that gun so many times that I "assumed" that I did what I always do and that is empty the gun after firing it. I broke the rule. Always assume a gun is loaded before handling it. So, I check FREQUENTLY.
I figure the residue that might come out of the spent case can't be any worse that the original firing. Just clean the gun.
I figure the residue that might come out of the spent case can't be any worse that the original firing. Just clean the gun.
Yankee Doodle
New member
I take a tube of silicone sealant and put a bit into the primer pocket. It cures to rubber, and will never come out. If you use clear or black you can't mistake it for a live round. Let it cure for about two day before you snap the hammer on it.
Y.D.
Y.D.
Ace of Spades
New member
IMO, that's the problem - I only want to do that after an actual range trip and live ammo. However, a Q-tip or patch usually fixes things, but not w/o field stripping the gun to get to the barrel.
hksigwalther
New member
I do all the time. Only problem is that you have to rotate the case on occassion to keep from hitting the same place all of the time (mostly for bolt actions where just lifting the bolt handle is enough to cock the striker, just eject the case and reload it). One of these days I'll get off my lazy butt and trim off the back of the case head (leaving the front half on for the extractor to grab) and glue on a piece of rubber for the impacts.
FYI: S&W doesn't require snapcaps
I'm a new .38SPL owner and found the following at the SW web site under FAQ's. :
Q: Can I dry fire my Smith & Wesson?
A: Yes, except for the .22 caliber pistols which includes models 22A, 22S, 422, 2206, 2214, 2213 and 41.
.22 caliber revolvers such as models 17, 43, 63, 317 and 617 also should not be dry fired.
Q: Why can't I dry fire my .22 pistol or revolver?
A: Dry firing a S&W .22 pistol or revolver will cause damage to the firing pin
( So S&W must always use the kind of high-tolerance materials that you'd expect. )
I'm a new .38SPL owner and found the following at the SW web site under FAQ's. :
Q: Can I dry fire my Smith & Wesson?
A: Yes, except for the .22 caliber pistols which includes models 22A, 22S, 422, 2206, 2214, 2213 and 41.
.22 caliber revolvers such as models 17, 43, 63, 317 and 617 also should not be dry fired.
Q: Why can't I dry fire my .22 pistol or revolver?
A: Dry firing a S&W .22 pistol or revolver will cause damage to the firing pin
( So S&W must always use the kind of high-tolerance materials that you'd expect. )
Many of the above posts give good reasons for using snap caps instead of cases for dry firing. Possible confusion with live ammo, etc.
Some guns (mostly modern manufacture) are okay to dry fire and the manufacturer actually recommends it so that you get familiar with the gun. The Ruger center-fire single-actions are one such type of gun. You need to make sure the manufacturer's instructions say that your gun model is okay to dry fire. If it does not say so, then the answer is do NOT dry fire because you can and eventually will cause mechanical damage. The damage is generally to the firing pin assembly.
Most .22's are NOT safe to dry fire because the firing pin will actually hit the face of your cylinder or above the chamber on autos.
It is best to just get some high quality snap caps that are brightly colored and that have springs inside them. The springs protect the parts of your gun by simulating the back pressure on the firing pin when the cartridge fires.
Snap caps are also great for training new shooters as both you and the shooter know the gun in their hands is not loaded with live ammo.
Try this link to buy snap caps for handguns and long guns.
http://www.cowboyneeds.com/Snap_Caps.html
Some guns (mostly modern manufacture) are okay to dry fire and the manufacturer actually recommends it so that you get familiar with the gun. The Ruger center-fire single-actions are one such type of gun. You need to make sure the manufacturer's instructions say that your gun model is okay to dry fire. If it does not say so, then the answer is do NOT dry fire because you can and eventually will cause mechanical damage. The damage is generally to the firing pin assembly.
Most .22's are NOT safe to dry fire because the firing pin will actually hit the face of your cylinder or above the chamber on autos.
It is best to just get some high quality snap caps that are brightly colored and that have springs inside them. The springs protect the parts of your gun by simulating the back pressure on the firing pin when the cartridge fires.
Snap caps are also great for training new shooters as both you and the shooter know the gun in their hands is not loaded with live ammo.
Try this link to buy snap caps for handguns and long guns.
http://www.cowboyneeds.com/Snap_Caps.html