Dumb question: do I have to remove all metal bits from my stock before I tung oil it?

C

Clead

New member
Hi guys, I am about to finish my Garand wood with tung oil, and I was wondering what the general consensus was for how far to strip the rifle before applying the oil. Remove metal handguard clips? or can I just wipe it off the metal? obviously swivels and such must go, but what else? Thanks for any input. Gotta gloat: I paid $120 US for that Garand. 1941 Winchester original wood 90% finish. It's not all bad up here! Oh yeah, our ARs and M1 Carbines are classed as handguns (restricted), so we can't carry them in the bush, but we can have as short a barrel as we want. 6.5" SMG ARs anyone?
Clead
 
To prevent moisture from being able to penetrate in any one spot, remove all the metal pieces.

The reason stocks crack is the same reason wood moulding on a house cracks. If you don't caulk the moulding on your house nor paint the backside of the moulding before you apply the moulding, then you paint said moulding, it will not last as long your neighbor's moulding that was properly preped.

Moisture will penetrate the wood on only one side, thus causing only one side of the piece of wood to expand, contract, swell, and or dry out at a different rate than the other side of the piece of wood. Eventually, that piece of wood will crack, if it doesn'' rot out from the backside first.

Same goes for wood stocks. So, remove the metal and rub away...
 
Careful, carefully...

I usually only remove the buttplate. I rarely, if ever remove the upper sling ferrule, as ift may be impossible to get it tight again without glassing. Since I have collectable Garands, I do not want to alter the original configuation. I never, EVER remove the lower handguard clips since if you do not have the special tool, you WILL ruin it or discover cracks previously not visible during removal or reassembly.

If that is ORIGINAL Winchester wood, do NOT fool with it in a quest for thorough oiling. I have been there, done that with handguards, even with the tool.

For the upper handguard, I will often remove the liner and ends to hit the inside initially with oil, but only once or the small tabs on the liner will easily break off.

The oil will build up where the wood and metal meet, harden and seal the joint.

Keep in mind, original USGI Garand stocks were totally dipped at SPringfield or other factory before the metal was applied, so they will have soaked in oil.
 
I would remove it all. It may take a little time, but you will be glad you did. It will also give you a chance to polish the metal up a little. :)
 
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