Dumb(ish) question re ".50" bullets in a .45

FirstFreedom

Moderator
I bought some "off-brand" ML bullets on clearance at Academy recently (not the Precision Rifle, but other ones - I'll post the name when I get home and look).

Anyhow, they are 240 gr, saboted .45 bullets for use in .50 MLs. I bought them primarily to use them in my .45 cal ML (discard the sabot). But what about doing this when they're not designed for that? They're designed for sabots, so what's different about the design of the bullet itself? I assume that IF they are lubed, and IF they are not too big (or too small) for the bore, they should work fine, correct? Or, will there be a problem in giving me a good gas seal? And what's the liklihood of them being the right size for my .45 cal Traditions? If this is a bad idea, I'll just use them in my .50 cal ML.
 
I think there's a good chance they would work ok but not real good. Depends on yer rifling twist and depth of grooves. Loading them straight would be the trick. A hollow base would be better than flat base. You aren't talkin jacketed bullets are ya? Oh, I see now they are jacketed bullets. Well, save em fer the 50 cal.and use the sabots.
 
The sabot .45 bullets may not have grease or lube rings on them. If not they will lead up your barrel something fierce!
Also they may not load straight going down the barrel.
AND, you want to measure the OD to see if they're the fight sizr for your bore. If they are .440" they should be OK.
If they are long enough with lube rings on them,lube them up and shoot them!!
Be sure to but a button under them over the powder or fill the base of the bullet with lube if it is a hollow base bullet.You don't want a air pocket between the powder and the bullet!:eek:
 
OK, bad idea, lol. Thanks. Nope, they are flat-based, and no "rough pattern" or lube rings on the outside. There IS one cannelure on the bullet (I suppose for crimping the jacket to the bullet), and so lube could be placed in that cannelure. But without the actual lube rings or hollow base, it appears that this is a bad idea, even with a wad of some sort. I will shoot them in the .50 then - no biggie.

I also found some bullets made by T/C on clearance yesterday, and bought some of them too. They are T/Cs economy line, called "Cheap Shot" - plain lead hollowpoints in sabots - I thought that $1.88 for 20 bullets from T/C could not be too bad of a deal!
 
You can apply a very thin coating of lube with a patch in the top 1/2 or 2/3's of your barrel before ramming, and then again if necessary after ramming, but it should be a very thin coating. I've tried this with tight loading sabots too even though it's not really necessary, since I use a mallet when I load anyway! :D
 
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Hey doubletap, are you saying that even if a hollow based bullet (with no wad or plug) is pushed right up against the powder, just what little air is in the hollow of the base can amount to a dangerous condition? Wow. I wonder how that could be though, since so many sabots have a hollow base area, and you don't put anything underneath them...
 
It is possible. The sabot is between the bullet and the powder so the hollow base dosen't matter..I understood he was going to load the bullet without the sabot plastic part.
I'm not saying it can't be done but I wouldn't recommend it unless you're very careful and thorough.!!
Supposedly the hollow base is supposed to be pushed down into the powder charge,as in mini balls for muskets,therefore the powder will fill up the air gap. It works but if you don't get it right down tight, or if you tilt your barrel toward the ground and it slides forward, you may be in for a surprise.
Now on another note,some folks will say the base full of grease fouls the top part of the powder charge.
So, you have to make your own decisions.
That's why I only shoot patched balls!!!
 
I would think , if you are trying to shoot a jacketed bullet, made for a sabot, you will get so much "Blow By" from the powder, that it would effect your accuracy a bunch.

Why would you want to do this, when Buffalo Bullets, are so cheap?
 
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