Dry Firing

Im completely aware of that post. And it asks a completely different question. It asks How often do you dry fire? Where as I am asking if anyone has ever had problems due to dry firing. So please make it a habit to get your facts straight.
 
Nope, never a problem with a gun from dry-firing. I have managed to degrade some snap-caps to being worthless from repeated use, but never a problem with any of my guns themselves.
 
Only problem I ever had with dry firing is with the plastic snap caps, I now only use A-Zoom aluminum ones.
 
Snap Caps

I too have reduced snap caps to junk. I made my own out of spent casings. I de-capped them and filled the primer cavity with hot glue. When dry it offers just enough resistance to give the firing pin something to work against. Does anyone know if there is a potential problem with this method? Thanks
 
Been dry firing for 40 years. Never owned a snap cap. Never had a problem. I have guns that must have been dry fired 100,000 times.
 
Once upon a time I broke the firing pin in a Marlin 29A (22 rf). However I have never had a problem dry firing center fires.

The manuals for a couple of the pistols I own specifically forbid dry firing and for those I use snap caps. A couple of the other pistols I own specify "dry fire" all you want.
 
Never had a problem "dry firing" a center fire rifle or handgun. I would never "dry fire" a rim fire, or shotgun without snap caps.
 
Had to replace the first barrel on my S&W M41 22 pistol because of excessive dry firing. At the time I didn't know about snap caps, now I have them for every handgun caliber I have and they all get used regularly.
 
A Zoom rimfire "training rounds" safe for dry firing?

The A Zoom website contrasts its snap caps with "rimfire training rounds" and specifically states that they are not snap caps. Are they still useful for dry firing? Looks like they could be intended strictly for handling practice - loading, clearing the weapon, etc.
 
Here is a list of the guns that have given me problems from dry firing:

Browning 1922 pistol: broken striker
Luger P08 pistol: broken striker
Radom VIS 1935 pistol: broken firing pin
Remington Rolling Block rifle: broken firing pin
Remington Model 51 pistol: broken firing pin

In each case the breakage was not from repeated dry firing. Apparently, the pins/strikers were either ready to break, improperly heat treated, or some other defect.

As a result, I avoid dry firing any gun if at all possible, with the exception of 1911s. In certain cases, I will use a the eraser end of a pencil to cushion the blow in pistols that have internal strikers or concealed hammers.
 
Broke the trigger return spring on a Bersa Thunder 380 while dry firing it. I have a feeling it would have broken from normal firing at the same round count too though. Regardless it broke while dry firing.
 
KMC - The only problem I can see with what you are doing is if the glue is too soft. If so, residue from the glue might be getting on the firing pin and gunking up the works. If not, I don't see how what you are doing would cause a problem.

Tip12095 - As others have stated, the only problems I have personally had while dry firing is with old snap caps (either the rim would break and the dummy round would not eject or they would get nicked/spurs which would get caught in the chamber, jamming the round). Also, dry firing center fire pistols should be ok, but if you dry fire a rim fire, you will eventually damage the firing pin.
 
Problem with A-Zooms

The case head is starting to peel back on my A-Zooms. I have a picture here of the used A-Zoom on the left and a brand new A-Zoom on the right. You can see the white line of bare metal on the A-Zoom on the left - if you look closely you can also see that the circumferance of the case is wider where that metal band around the case is.

The case is starting to peel back and mushroom out and if I load the A-Zoom on the left it gets stuck in the chamber / can't cycle the slide.

This obviously doesn't happen with the Tiptons.

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