Dry Firing Question

C

Cullen

New member
Hi gents,
In my thread on curing my wife of her flinch, most of you recommended a lot of dry firing practice.

My question is will this hurt the firing pin or the hammer in my P229? I have read that dry firing should use snap caps in revolvers - is this also the case for empty automatics?

Forgive my ignorance!

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Those who say Science disproves the existence of God understand neither Science nor God.

We scoff at honor and then are surprised to discover traitors in our midst - Edmund Burke
 
Dry fire is good practice. I've heard both sides of the argument, and I believe that it is cheap insurance to purchase the snap caps.
I have used empty casings in the past, but like the spring in the snap caps.

I have some in all my handgun calibers, regardless of whether or not they are necessary. Cost is usually around $10-12 for a package of them.

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Panzerführer

Die Wahrheit ist eine Perle. Werfen sie nicht vor die Säue.

Those that beat their swords into plowshares will plow for those that don't.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR> My question is will this hurt the firing pin or the hammer in my P229? I have read that dry firing should use snap caps in revolvers - is this also the case for empty automatics? [/quote]

No, it won't hurt your P229. Obviously, any time you move the parts of a machine, there's going to be some wear from friction and impact. But a few hundred dry fire snaps shouldn't cause any significant harm to the pistol.

I'd be more worried about safety. Make sure that your wife understands that dry firing is inherently dangerous, since it requires a violation of Rule #1 (Treat all guns as if they were loaded). Check and double check that the pistol is empty, then have your wife do the same when you hand it to her. Don't even have any ammunition in the same room, if possible. Aim at a brick or basement wall that will stop a bullet. And when you're done, you're done. Once you've put the pistol down, don't come back a few minutes later for just one more snap unless you're going to check and double check that it's still unloaded.

I'm sorry to be such a safety nag but I think it's best to learn from the mistakes of others. :)

[This message has been edited by Matt VDW (edited March 23, 2000).]
 
Snap-caps seem to work great in handguns, but not as good with a rifle.

In order to dry fire my semi-automatic rifle I have to pull back the bolt each time - which ejects the snap cap. Is there any work around to this or is it just the way it is?
 
Cullen,
When I dry fire my Sigs, I use a foam ear plug cut in half and placed in the notch where the hammer strikes the firing pin. If the blow is cushioned, I don't see how it could impart any forces on the firing pin. This method is MUCH cheaper than a snap cap that tend to bust apart after several dry fires anyway. Snap caps= ~$15 for a pack versus a fraction of a cent for 1 foam ear plug.

Nathan

Read this idea over on the makarov.com discussion board. Seems to work well for me.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Fusternc:
Cullen,
When I dry fire my Sigs, I use a foam ear plug cut in half and placed in the notch where the hammer strikes the firing pin. If the blow is cushioned, I don't see how it could impart any forces on the firing pin. This method is MUCH cheaper than a snap cap that tend to bust apart after several dry fires anyway. Snap caps= ~$15 for a pack versus a fraction of a cent for 1 foam ear plug.

[/quote]

I think it depends on the gun. For most centerfire weapons, snap caps are unnecessary, for for a few, they're mandatory.

I don't think the rubber cushion approach will work with a Beretta Tomcat, for example. That firing moves forward with so much force that it really needs something hard to stop it. If it doesn't, it disintegrates inside the firing pin channel, by busting itself against the front of the slide/channel. (The Beretta literally EATS snap caps.)

A cheaper solution is to used spent/fired shells, but only for a few trigger pulls, each. (The primer gets eroded, and then stops functioning as a retardant.)

It'll depend on the gun.
 
I take a peice of paper folded many times till it's thin enough width wise to fit in the hammer area. It pads the impact but still allows normal cycling of the hammer and trigger.

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"It is easier to get out of jail then it is a morgue"
Live long and defend yourself!
John 3:16
 
Snap caps are cheap insurance, sao I use them. they other thing they're useful for is teaching newbies how to load and unload/clear the gun without the risk of handling live ammo when they're at that '
clumsy' stage' and haven't yet developed good muzzle awareness.
M2
 
I make my own snap caps. I reload fired cases with bullets (omitting the powder and primer) and fill the primer pocket with GE Silicone Sealant (the clear stuff that smells like vinegar--guess that's because it contains acetic anhydride). The silicone rubber 'plug' cushions the firing pin blow.
 
leedesert - I do the same thing but I use cardboard.

Tex - You just gave me an idea, think glue stick will do as a replacement for silicone.

vega
 
I always use snapcaps. It is cheap insurance against a broken firing pin.

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BOYCOTT SMITH AND WESSON!!!!!
The only justice for a traitor is at the end of a rope!!!!
Off my meds (quit smoking), armed to the teeth, and loose on an unsuspecting society!!!
 
Is it ok to dry fire the newer models of the
Walther P99?

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"Remember. The force will be with you. Always."
 
Pieces of nylon cut to fit the primer pocket work better and provide the cushioning needed. The slight cushion provided by paper or foam rubber is not enough.

As for ejecting the snap cap, simply trim off the rim. The snap cap should stop on the shoulder or the "case" mouth just like a live round. Of course, the snap cap has to be removed with a cleaning rod after the dry firing session is over.

Most modern firearms can be dry fired indefinitely with no harm, though I have no experience with the Beretta Tomcat. Even quality rimfire firearms have positive firing pin stops that prevent damage to the chamber edge, a problem with some older designs.

Jim

[This message has been edited by Jim Keenan (edited March 26, 2000).]
 
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