Dry Firing Not OK Even With Snap Caps?

MIKE10538

New member
I have a Kel-Tec P-11 9m. Today the gunsmith at Kel-Tec said that dry firing even with snap caps can damage the firing pin. How can this be?
Thanks,
Mike
 
I believe its a bunch of bull#@&! Todays firing pins are so strong that dry firing thousands of times without snaps will probably do very little to nothing. I believe a firing pin goes through more stress actually hitting a live primer then dry firing! Snap away, I have been for years!
 
maybe way back when it may have been a greater issue, but agreee the newer materials and manufacturing process reduce the chance of damage to the firing pin itself. In my handguns if is going to be repetitive dryfiring for what ever reason I fit a small piece of leather tightly int he hammer slot and let it fall on that. I just dont like the hammer hammering on the back of the slide, receiver etc. I dont own but a few snap caps and can never find one when I need it.
The leather always to seem to work just fine and I dont need a lot of different calibers.
I would just as soon error on the side of caution.
 
The P-11 manual says not to dry fire any weapon. I dont know how they can speak for other gun manufacturers, but as far as the Kel-Tec goes, I have done it, probably will keep doing and dont really care if it breaks a pin, its under warranty.

I just hope it dont break during that one time i "really" need it!!!

I never understood how dry firing could damage pins anyway. In all of the guns ive owned, theres nothing for the pin to stike to damage it. Some say the vibration damages it, some say the fact that it has nothing to strike against damages it. Who really knows?

Ive never had a broken pin due to dry firing. I did have a broken pin in my firestar, but thats because it was a POS right out of the box(sorry firestar owners)

In the long run, I'd say listen to the man that works on keltecs for a living. Im sure he knows better than we do. I'll even keep Cliffs words in mind next time i wanna strenghten my trigger finger.

Tim : )



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Lol - I love dry firing my Glock, but it's a pain in the ass to pull the slide back an inch every time. I was playing with my nephew, and he had a couple of those plastic guns that shoot the little disks. Darn thing had a pull JUST like my glock! Whether that's a comment about the quality of toy gun triggers or Glock triggers I will not touch, but now I have a Glock like gun I can dry fire all day, without fear of AD/ND, resetting the slide, anything.
Just cracked me up is all...
 
In the Beretta Tomcat (3032), dry firing can cause the firing pin to disappear -- like magic. It'll break off, and a little piece will fall out, and a big piece will stay in the slide.

It seems to depend upon how the firing pin is designed to fit in the back of the slide, and the force with which it is struck. In some cases, the pin is hit so hard, that if there is nothing to restrain it, it will damage itself against hte inside of the slide.

In the case of the Tomcat, that little sucker hits hard and deep. Use a spent cartridge or a snap cap, and in 20-30 trigger pulls there'll be a BIG hole in the primer area and eventually the spent cartridge or snap cap doesn't do its job.

Ruger .22s are adjusted at the factory so that the firing pin won't damage the chamber. That's true of some other .22s as well, but not all.


I've dry-fired my Kel-Tec P-11 so many times I can't even GUESS how many I've done it. It still works.
 
Will users of Taurus and or Ruger revolvers please respond to the original question of this thread? I have a new Taurus Tracker 7 shot 357, and will soon own a Ruger GP 100. I'd like to do a lot of dry fire practice with these revolvers, and wish to know how likely it may or may not be that dry firing might damage either of them.
 
Quoting from my GP100's owner's manual:

"The GP100 revolver can be dry-fired without damage to the firing pin or internal components."

The gun's built like a tank. Never had any problems. Don't know anything about the Taurus.
 
Sometimes it's NOT the firing pin itself that's the problem. In the SIG 229 & 239 the problem is with the new SS FP stop pin that is harder than the FP. After dry firing the FP stop pin actually wears the FP till it breaks.
 
Like Jeff says, the Ruger GP100 manual says dry firing is fine, and I've read posts from people saying they dry fire their rugers 1000's of times. I'm about 90 percent sure Taurus uses the same transfer-bar system in their revolvers, so it should be OK to dry fire them, too.
 
Got a Taurus M827. Manual says its not advisable to dry fire. It has a transfer bar like the Ruger. I use empty casing for snap caps and put silicone at the primer.

vega

[This message has been edited by vega (edited September 29, 2000).]
 
I have the Kimber Classic Stainless Target model, and it's a fine shooter. When I got it, I felt the trigger had too much creep, so I sent it back, they fixed it without any fuss, and the trigger is great now.

My only other possible complaint, though it hasn't caused any problems, is that it has a pretty tight chamber. I have to be more careful with my reloads to avoid problems chambering with the Kimber, but my other .45ACP guns have all have larger chambers and any old sloppy crimp will do. :)
 
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