WARNING!!!
Kernel's instructions were wrong, and guaranteed to cause an ND:
"The safe way to decock a loaded modern revolver is to grasp the trigger with you thumb and forefinger, pull the trigger to the rear until you feel the hammer release, remove your finger from the trigger, while maintaining your grasp slowly let the hammer go forward until it is at rest. The key is to take your finger off the trigger, even if your thumb and forefinger were to slip the hammer would not be able to hit the firing pin since the transfer bar would not be engaged."
What he meant to say in the first sentence was:
"The safe way to decock a loaded modern revolver is to grasp the HAMMER..."
Even with that major mistake corrected, this is bad technique.
My suggestion: with the gun flat on the table as one example, start by curling your strong-hand thumb down in front of the cocked hammer. Curl your whole strong-hand around the whole gun, and trip the trigger with your strong-hand forefinger. Once the hammer is squeezing your thumb, get *everything* clear of the triggerguard and then lower the hammer.
Regarding the firing pin: on a 1911 type, the firing pin is very long and when made of steel, somewhat heavy. So on the 80-series, they lock up the firing pin because very rarely with a 70-series and below, dropping the gun right on the end of the barrel allowed the firing pin to shift forward with enough energy to set off a primer.
One way to solve this with a 70-series is to install a lighter TI firing pin which has less potential momentum on a drop.
On revolvers, the firing pin is a LOT shorter, so even factory steel parts DO NOT have the momentum to possibly crank off a primer on a drop. Therefore the firing pin is a fully floating part, which is OK. The critical thing is the transfer bar and that part as used by any reputable outfit such as Ruger is VERY reliable.