Drilled chamber

A

aerod1

New member
I recently purchased an Argentine Mauser that had been drilled and tapped for a scope mount. The only problem is the front screw hole is drill and tapped into the chamber, about 1/4 inch from the case head. All of the holes were filled with some sort of sealer. I have removed the sealer because I realize that won't get it. Is it ok to shoot if I install a mount screw in the threads? It is a cheap gun and I don't want to spend a lot of money in repairs.
How can I make this a shooter?

Thanks for your help,

Jim
 
Is it into the chamber or the locking lug area. If it's in the lug area, it's probably okay because there is no pressure. If it's into the chamber (forward of the locking recesses), then I would advise against shooting it under any circumstances. This is the reason it is not advisable to drill and tap a receiver without removing the barrel.
 
You have a really nice action for a sporter in the 1909 Argentine. Rebarrel it to the caliber of your choice and enjoy it, but don't shoot it with a hole in the chamber. Since it was drilled by a nincompoop in the first place, your gunsmith will check for other problems when he looks at the action for rebarelling.

Clemson
 
When you say 1/4" from the case head, that could be either in front or it or behind it, which is why you were asked if the hole was really in the chamber? If, with an empty case in the chamber, you could look into the hole and see brass, don't shoot it. It's been ruined. Even if a screw could hold the pressure, the fact it doesn't match the chamber surface means the cartridges either won't chamber without damage from the screw tip or, if it is short of filling the hole, the cases will expand into the small recess and refuse to extract. Academic, really, since the screw probably won't hold. Even worse, it could dislodge at an angle that blows hot gasses back into your face, or the hole could start a chamber crack that bursts the whole thing. Nothing favorable enough is to be gained to make it worth the risk of trying.

Replacement barrels aren't necessarily expensive, so start looking for one. On the off chance the barrel diameter remains wide enough for a 1/4" beyond the case shoulder part of the chamber, you could conceivably have the original barrel's shoulder set back enough to lose the screw hole and have the barrel re-chambered. Ask a gunsmith if that appears feasible?

Nick
 
drilled chamber

Dear Shooter:
Change the barrel forth-with! You can make a fine rifle out of this with a new bbl.
You can probably find a new barrel from Gun-Parts on the net - check those holes for alignment and make sure you check headspace on the next bbl.
Harry B.
 
drilled chamber

Dear Shooter:
I've been thinking (dangerous)!
If you have a chambering reamer you COULD fill the hole with a screw and use your reamer to cut the end off flush. A number 6 screw I don't think would give any trouble? I shouldn't recommend this but this has crossed my mind before. I've never done it, really feel strange about it, but, you could try it. Be very careful - :eek: :eek: you would need either to sweat the screw in or peen the top so it would never move!
What do the rest of you smiths' think?
Harry B.
 
Harry,

I have a great deal of respect for you experience and ability. However, I feel strongly that this is a bad idea.

Consider the consequences of the screw letting go and becoming a projectile, with 30,000+ CUP behind it. Also consider the stress riser the hole sets up in the barrel right where the pressure of a fired round is highest.

I think you should trust your first instinct in this; replacing the barrel is the only really safe approach to repairing this gun.


Larry
 
DT is right. Moreover, you would have to ensure the screw was the same alloy with the same hardness in order to provide equal strength. The threads would have to have near zero-tolerance dimension or even a slight friction fit. Still, the protrusion will likely damage the reamer or cause it to walk off-center until the cut is complete, leaving an off-axis and slightly oval chamber. Then everything would have to be stress-relieved.

No easy task or safe assurances here.

Nick
 
I did a little figuring, 40,000 psi chamber pressure would amount to about a 700 pound load on the cross-sectional area of a no 6 screw.
Will it take that?
Repeatedly?
I don't know for sure but doubt it and it scares the dickens out of me.
Scrounge a good barrel or sell the rig for the action.
 
I didn't reply on first reading the question, because I didn't want to sound like I was recommending such a thing, but I have seen it done, just as Harry says, and it did work. The end of the screw was cleaned up with a reamer (hard on the reamer, I think, but wasn't there when it was done) and the gun fired OK without the screw coming out.

But this is NOT an endorsement or a recommendation to try such a thing. Barrels for Mausers are easily available at reasonable prices and it is not worth taking a chance.

Jim
 
drilled chamber

:barf: :o :o Jim:
You're positively right, it might be O.K. but it is my mistake! This is not good advice for anyone to give; it would be a slip-shod way of gunsmithing - I firmly retract this stupid idea!
:confused:
 
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