I have a M38 Swedish mauser that I am going to drill and tap for Weaver scope bases. I would appreciate any advice from anyone who has done this before. I realize that I will have to also modify my bolt and safety to use a low mounted scope, so information on those modifications would be helpful also.
Drill and Tap Swedish Mauser
- Thread starter Biff
- Start date
George Stringer
Staff Alumnus
Biff, I recommend you get a Midway drill jig for drilling the holes. Midway's number is 1-800-243-3220. For the other modifications you need a good book such as Riflesmithing by Jack Mitchell. Brownell's (515) 623-5401 carries it. He thoroughly covers forging bolt handles as well as low scope safeties. One tip on bolt handles. A regular propane torch will not get them hot enough. You will need at least a Oxy-Propane unit to provide enough heat.By the way, most safeties like the Dayton Traister Mark II come with complete installation instructions. George
Harry Bonar
New member
re-tap swede
Dear Sir:
Always drill with a drill at least three sizes smaller than you final tap drill and then drill with your tap drill. That way you will get a correct hole even if the flutes are a little off on your tap drill.
I learned the hard way!
Dear Sir:
Always drill with a drill at least three sizes smaller than you final tap drill and then drill with your tap drill. That way you will get a correct hole even if the flutes are a little off on your tap drill.
I learned the hard way!drill depth stop also
Also, don't forget to set the drill depth and use a stop once you have the gun clamped in place so you don't end up into the chamber or elsewhere. And, if you move the gun position at all once things are clamped and the drill depth set...start over setting the drill depth and the stop. ...another lesson I learned the hard way. It's a horrible sinking feeling when that drill press handle suddenly drops.....
Also, don't forget to set the drill depth and use a stop once you have the gun clamped in place so you don't end up into the chamber or elsewhere. And, if you move the gun position at all once things are clamped and the drill depth set...start over setting the drill depth and the stop. ...another lesson I learned the hard way. It's a horrible sinking feeling when that drill press handle suddenly drops.....
cntryboy1289
New member
question for JeffDinTx
Where are you drilling that you don't want to drill all the way through into the reciever? The barrel will cover the hole where it is and in the rear, you grind the screw down to fit so the bolt will slide if you don't have the correct length of screw. I may have misunderstood what you meant.
Biff, get the drill jig from Midway, I like it myself and use it most of the time. If you don't want to use it, use a dial caliper and the base that you plan to mount. Place a dab of hot epoxy under the bottom of the base. Place the base on the reciever, and place the jaw of the caliper on the bottom of the reciever. This is a flat bottom reciever so the caliper jaws will keep the base mounted correctly. The epoxy will help keep the base where you put it when you use the caliper to align it. Then I place the reciever with the base attatched to it in a vise and use a center punch to punch the correct whole alignment in the reciever. I then use a little propane torch to heat the base a little and get the epoxy to let go.
Now take the reciever to the drill press. I use a # 33 carbide drill to drill the initial hole. I then use the #29 to finish the hole, I like to use 8-40 screws for scope bases and not the 6-48. I leave the reciever in the vise and use my tap in the drill press to tap the holes using tap magic fluid. Go slowly and back off very often to prevent the tap from breaking. This should get your scope mounted. Go slow and don't move the reciever once each hole is drilled until it is tapped. This will help make sure everything is drilled and tapped in the same plane.
AS far as the bolt handle goes, I like to use the wheeler bolt welding jig. I cut the handle off with my hack saw with a new 24pti blade according to the directions. I then align it in the jig and then tig weld the new handle on with the heat sink in place and heat stop paste on the bolt around the cocking part of the bolt and the lugs of the bolt and the slot in the bolt for the cocking piece. If you cannot tig weld. I would farm this out to someone that does and have them dress the weld for you, this will save you a lot of headache. You may have to grind the top part of the weld a little flatter to get the bolt to go past the scope.
AS far as safeties go, I like to use a commercial bolt shroud and a bold optima trigger with the saftey like the remington model 700 does. It makes it look better to me and I like the safety of the 700. You will be able to open the bolt at all times, but I like that aspect myself.
Hope this helps and you can understand what I said.
Where are you drilling that you don't want to drill all the way through into the reciever? The barrel will cover the hole where it is and in the rear, you grind the screw down to fit so the bolt will slide if you don't have the correct length of screw. I may have misunderstood what you meant.
Biff, get the drill jig from Midway, I like it myself and use it most of the time. If you don't want to use it, use a dial caliper and the base that you plan to mount. Place a dab of hot epoxy under the bottom of the base. Place the base on the reciever, and place the jaw of the caliper on the bottom of the reciever. This is a flat bottom reciever so the caliper jaws will keep the base mounted correctly. The epoxy will help keep the base where you put it when you use the caliper to align it. Then I place the reciever with the base attatched to it in a vise and use a center punch to punch the correct whole alignment in the reciever. I then use a little propane torch to heat the base a little and get the epoxy to let go.
Now take the reciever to the drill press. I use a # 33 carbide drill to drill the initial hole. I then use the #29 to finish the hole, I like to use 8-40 screws for scope bases and not the 6-48. I leave the reciever in the vise and use my tap in the drill press to tap the holes using tap magic fluid. Go slowly and back off very often to prevent the tap from breaking. This should get your scope mounted. Go slow and don't move the reciever once each hole is drilled until it is tapped. This will help make sure everything is drilled and tapped in the same plane.
AS far as the bolt handle goes, I like to use the wheeler bolt welding jig. I cut the handle off with my hack saw with a new 24pti blade according to the directions. I then align it in the jig and then tig weld the new handle on with the heat sink in place and heat stop paste on the bolt around the cocking part of the bolt and the lugs of the bolt and the slot in the bolt for the cocking piece. If you cannot tig weld. I would farm this out to someone that does and have them dress the weld for you, this will save you a lot of headache. You may have to grind the top part of the weld a little flatter to get the bolt to go past the scope.
AS far as safeties go, I like to use a commercial bolt shroud and a bold optima trigger with the saftey like the remington model 700 does. It makes it look better to me and I like the safety of the 700. You will be able to open the bolt at all times, but I like that aspect myself.
Hope this helps and you can understand what I said.
Reply to Cntryboy's question
Cntryboy, Now I have to admit my fatal error in greater detail but maybe it will help others. About 30 years go I had a nice Lee Enfield #4 MK1* Savage. I decided to mount a weaver base on it and had to drill in two places. One in the charger bridge area and the other right where the barrel screws into the action. When I drilled that second hole I had moved the gun in the drill press and didn't recheck the depth gauge. I drilled right through into the chamber.
I'm not familiar with the Swedish Mauser mentioned, so maybe there's no fear of doing what I did.
Cntryboy, Now I have to admit my fatal error in greater detail but maybe it will help others. About 30 years go I had a nice Lee Enfield #4 MK1* Savage. I decided to mount a weaver base on it and had to drill in two places. One in the charger bridge area and the other right where the barrel screws into the action. When I drilled that second hole I had moved the gun in the drill press and didn't recheck the depth gauge. I drilled right through into the chamber.
I'm not familiar with the Swedish Mauser mentioned, so maybe there's no fear of doing what I did.
cntryboy1289
New member
did you pull the barrel first?
If you didn't, I see what you mean. If you didn't, I would suggest that any time you decide to drill, you pull the barrel off first, then drill through completely. The only time I set the depth, is when I drill into the barrel itself. I think that reason is obvious. I was just curious as to what you actually were doing. Thanks for responding back to me.
If you didn't, I see what you mean. If you didn't, I would suggest that any time you decide to drill, you pull the barrel off first, then drill through completely. The only time I set the depth, is when I drill into the barrel itself. I think that reason is obvious. I was just curious as to what you actually were doing. Thanks for responding back to me.
If you want one to drill up I have one that bubba had his hands on already but the top is in tact that I'd barter with ya. I'll even let ya have the .308 barrel that they stuck on there 
I got it since it was the only Swede I've seen in person, and I got everything I need to restore it, but the reciever was drilled for an old school scope on the side. I was just about to get it rebarrelled, but if you'd consider it, shoot me a PM. It's a bit rough visually but safe, I've shot it a few times.
Randy
I got it since it was the only Swede I've seen in person, and I got everything I need to restore it, but the reciever was drilled for an old school scope on the side. I was just about to get it rebarrelled, but if you'd consider it, shoot me a PM. It's a bit rough visually but safe, I've shot it a few times.
Randy