Dri-Lube for movement: fine! But for corrosion protection?

P

Pond James Pond

New member
Some time ago I posted a thread on my experiences with Hoppe's Dri-Lube.

In short, I like it as it really smoothed out my trigger and didn't attract dust etc.

The can I had failed as the valve would not work despite there still being lube in the can. I've recently bought some more and before cleaning off all the oil to replace it with the dry lubricant, I wanted to check something that hadn't occurred to me before.

1. Does dry lubricant do anything to protect metal against corrosion, or just friction.

2. In addition, does dry lube react with gun oils if I decide to apply oil on top at a later date?
 
Hoppe's Dri-Lube is apparently Teflon based(Polytetrafluoroethylene with propane as the propellant.). When a spray can stops working it's usually because the propellant is gone.
Dri-lube isn't for smoothing triggers or protecting against corrosion. Applying oil will likely flush it off. Mind you, some commercial oils have other stuff in 'em that might react.
 
Dri-lube isn't for smoothing triggers
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Might not be what it's for, but that is what it did on my SP-01 and my Redhawk.

Both had noticeably smoother triggers once the spray had dried on, particularly the CZ, so works for me...
 
PTFE (teflon) is essentially chemically inert at any temperature your trigger has any business being during normal or even abusive operation.

If you want a long lasting metal protector then froglube, tracklube, or SEAL One are all essentially the same product. Automatic Transmission Fluid is cheaper, just won't last as long.

Jimro
 
You never know. There are certain conditions where Molybdenum disulphide will break down and corrode the metal !! They said No Way but we showed them !
Metallurgy rules !:p
 
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You never know. There are certain conditions where Molybdenum dioxide will break down and corrode the metal !! They said No Way but we showed them !
Metallurgy rules
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Essentially oxidation of moly disulfide into moly oxide and sulfuric acid is what happens there, basically creating an electrolytic solution that encourages galvanic corrosion. Anyone who said, "No way" to molybdenum disulfide was ignoring published studies by the DOD going back to at least the 1970s.

PTFE has neither molybdenum nor sulfur components, just carbon and fluorine. And yes you CAN break apart PTFE at the temps/pressures involved in discharging a round of ammunition, the reactive byproducts are much more likely to react to activated carbon (soot) found in the firing cycle, and are not going to attract water then serve as an electrolyte for galvanic corrosion.

Still, I don't recommend the use of either in a barrel, but for dry lubing a trigger PTFE should be ok.

Jimro
 
My apologies !!!!:o
Yes disulfide. What world did you think I was talking about , Jimro ?? :rolleyes:
Yes I do have a seasoned citizen card :)
 
Still unsure

Just dug up this post.

Looking back through the posts I'm still unclear if, as part of its properties, Hoppe's Dri-Lube offers any corrosion protection.

If I use it on metal parts, are they at greater risk of moisture corrosion than parts lubed with regular dri-lube?
 
I am not a chemist.
Nor have I tested any theories about such.

But...
I'd have to say that most "dry-lubes" are not going to offer corrosion protection to the degree desired (if at all).


Where you're at, with your proximity to a large salt water body that likes to create or exacerbate storms with high moisture (and even salt) content, I'd definitely be leaning towards a non-drying oil (forget about Froglube, if you can even get it there).

My personal preference is for Slip2000 or Slip2000 EWL (thicker, less 'oozy'/'runny').
Doesn't get gummy, sticky, or tacky, like many other common lubricants.
 
I've got Forrest and Ballistol.

I'll probably use the latter. Although initially I was asking about my guns this update is because I've dismantled my crossbow trigger and it is dryyyyyy! Luckily it's not seen more than 150 shots, but still, I want to lube/protect it before it goes back on the rail.

Ballistol, being of made natural products, is probably less of a risk to a synthetic string.

But I don't want this to be about crossbows for obvious reasons.

Thanks for the input. It makes the choice clear: dri-lube for the household hinges!!
 
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