Drawbacks to extended ejector in 1911?

S

Shmackey

New member
Are there any? I'm considering installing one in a finicky 1911. The extractor is properly tensioned, and the recoil spring is correct. Even so, every so often, a round fails to eject. It's still in the extractor as the new round is trying to chamber. They're playing leapfrog in there.

Most high-quality 1911s come with an extended ejector standard. And I could always go back. So, any drawbacks?
 
Mostly just the expense. Before you replace the one already in the gun, have your gunsmith try tuning it first. That may solve the problem and it may cost less.
 
Yes you can. An ejector's angle can be altered to change how the empty case hits it and the angle at which it is ejected out of the pistol. However, your problem sounds more like an extractor with an improperly-contoured hook, assuming the gun isn't being limp-wristed of course. A barrel that doesn't drop down properly can also cause it. Huh, you say? I actually had a Series 70 once that wouldn't eject. The empty case would pass right over the ejector. It turns out in my case there was something wrong with the collet barrel bushing not allowing the barrel to swing down properly, preventing the spent case from lining up with the ejector. A new bushing solved the problem.
 
As dsk says, you certainly can tune an ejector; many dollars have been spend enlarging ejection ports when a file stroke would have solved the problem.

In the present case, I think the round is not reaching the ejector. There is a point where the slide has moved back far enough to extract the empty and pick up a round from the magazine, but not quite far enough for the empty case to reach the ejector.

If "Limp wristing" is not the cause, an extended ejector will probably help, but I would suggest trying a slightly heavier load or lighter recoil spring first.

Jim
 
If "Limp wristing" is not the cause, an extended ejector will probably help, but I would suggest trying a slightly heavier load or lighter recoil spring first.
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I thought, but (1) limp wristing isn't the problem; (2) I'm using fairly hot (Fiocchi) 230-grain FMJ; and (3) the empties get ejected a good 10 feet away, so I don't think it's the spring.

I totally forgot that, of course, you can tune an ejector. That said, if I'm going to pay someone to do that, I might as well have them start with an extended one, I think.
 
And there it is. If the casings are flying a good 10' away, you have a solid sharp-edged extractor.

Try this link:

http://www.m1911.org/technic.htm

Then, find the link, about the 7th one down, that's titled "Extractor Tuning and Installation Tips (by Bill Wilson)".

It's an easy do-it-yourselfer, if you have the patience to do it. Heck, it's only a coupla dollar part. Try it yourself first, you might become your own smith yet.
 
...just be sure to cut it short enough to allow fully loaded ball ammo to be extracted fully and SAFELY!
Beyond that...have fun with those links and buy an extra part to practice on ;)
 
Ditto on gyp_c2's comment on checking for positive ejection of a loaded hardball round. Saw an IPSC shooter who spent a lot of money on a custom 1911 from a big name gunsmith and got a gun with an extended ejector that would not eject a loaded hardball round reliably. If you tilted the gun to the right as you retracted the slide and let the round slowly fall from the port, the loaded round would fall out. Holding the it in a firing grip and racking the slide quickly resulted in a failure to eject the round.
 
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