I just obtained a 3 inch Model 60 for PP, and added a CT Lazergrip to make a near ideal (for me) CC or kit 357. It's double action trigger pull it terrible however, and so heavy my scale can't measure it. Single action trigger is fine. Having done safe trigger jobs on some rifles I'd like to tackle this one if I can do it safely. How is it done, and what are the safety checks. Thanks for your wisdom.
Double action trigger
- Thread starter cptmclark
- Start date
Bill DeShivs
New member
The areas of most improvement on the model 60 are: polishing the moving parts, reducing the weight of the trigger return spring, and proper lubrication.
Reducing the weight of the hammer spring may give some slight improvement, but at the cost of ignition reliability.
Reducing the weight of the hammer spring may give some slight improvement, but at the cost of ignition reliability.
Thanks Bill, Will the trigger return spring be exposed when I remove the side plate, and is there any immediate embarassment awaiting when I remove that, like springs held by the side plate or the like. First time is always a worry, but gotta start sometime. The single action trigger is nice and crisp, at a consistent 3 pounds, so I'm guessing the surfaces are not bad.
Bill DeShivs
New member
D/A uses a different notch on the hammer.
Remove the side plate by removing the screws. Hold the gun by the frame and rap the grip frame with a hammer handle or screwdriver handle. The side plate will pop off. DO NOT PRY THE SIDEPLATE OFF!!!
The trigger return spring is captive in a rectangular steel block just above the trigger. You will have to find the spring, compress it with the tip of your screwdriver, and pivot the block and spring out.
This is not something I recommend you do unless you are very machanicall inclined. Learning to work on a S&W is best learned by watching someone else do it.
Remove the side plate by removing the screws. Hold the gun by the frame and rap the grip frame with a hammer handle or screwdriver handle. The side plate will pop off. DO NOT PRY THE SIDEPLATE OFF!!!
The trigger return spring is captive in a rectangular steel block just above the trigger. You will have to find the spring, compress it with the tip of your screwdriver, and pivot the block and spring out.
This is not something I recommend you do unless you are very machanicall inclined. Learning to work on a S&W is best learned by watching someone else do it.
Much obliged. Now all I have to do if fine a Smith guru who will let me watch and do it while I'm there
Sounds similar to some rifle triggers I've modified springs on, but new is new. Would you clip the spring or find a same size one of less power? I don't think of a safety implication, unless the trigger just wouldn't return. I'd always rather see it done once. I'll check around. Thanks again.
Sounds similar to some rifle triggers I've modified springs on, but new is new. Would you clip the spring or find a same size one of less power? I don't think of a safety implication, unless the trigger just wouldn't return. I'd always rather see it done once. I'll check around. Thanks again.www.snubnose.info/docs/two_spring_jobs.htm
Click on the pic for a description of the parts. A lighter rebound slide spring is available from Brownell's, Midway, etc. Okay, I admit I've forgotten where I bought a bunch of them.
John
Click on the pic for a description of the parts. A lighter rebound slide spring is available from Brownell's, Midway, etc. Okay, I admit I've forgotten where I bought a bunch of them.
John
Before you do anything, practice with the gun a bit. What at first seems an awful trigger pull will often seem to be acceptable after some practice. Try lining up the sights and squeezing the trigger, so you concentrate on the sights rather than the trigger weight.
If you do decide to modify the gun, you can try grinding or cutting one and a half coils off that return spring. If you grind, keep the spring from getting too hot by cooling it in water every second or so.
You can take a bit off the coil hammer spring, but don't cut coils. If you have a belt sander, put a round pin through the spring and then "roll" it on the belt sander to reduce diameter. Oh, and before starting, buy at least one extra spring so you can always put the gun back the way it was. Oh, and if you do that, and put the gun back together, shoot it a lot (at least a couple of hundred rounds) to make sure it will work. And anytime you change ammo, do the same thing as primer hardness can vary.
NOTE: Manufacturers spend a lot of time making sure their guns will work under adverse conditions, like cold, dirt, rain, etc. Anytime you reduce spring tension, you take away some of that reliability. A small gun with a small hammer is especially risky since a primer needs a certain level of firing pin momentum to fire. If you reduce that momentum, either by reducing the weight of the hammer or reducing the tension of the spring, you can wind up trying to click an attacker to death, something I am told is seldom possible.
Jim
If you do decide to modify the gun, you can try grinding or cutting one and a half coils off that return spring. If you grind, keep the spring from getting too hot by cooling it in water every second or so.
You can take a bit off the coil hammer spring, but don't cut coils. If you have a belt sander, put a round pin through the spring and then "roll" it on the belt sander to reduce diameter. Oh, and before starting, buy at least one extra spring so you can always put the gun back the way it was. Oh, and if you do that, and put the gun back together, shoot it a lot (at least a couple of hundred rounds) to make sure it will work. And anytime you change ammo, do the same thing as primer hardness can vary.
NOTE: Manufacturers spend a lot of time making sure their guns will work under adverse conditions, like cold, dirt, rain, etc. Anytime you reduce spring tension, you take away some of that reliability. A small gun with a small hammer is especially risky since a primer needs a certain level of firing pin momentum to fire. If you reduce that momentum, either by reducing the weight of the hammer or reducing the tension of the spring, you can wind up trying to click an attacker to death, something I am told is seldom possible.
Jim
"...captive in a rectangular steel block..." That takes a special tool to get out properly. A screwdriver isn't it. Brownell's sells them for $19.97.
Or if you know a machinist, it can be made. It's a 3/16" round bar with a slot cut on the end and bent. Have a look at the Brownell's tool for how it needs to be bent. http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=774&title=S&W+REBOUND+SLIDE+SPRING+TOOL
Just changing the springs will drop the DA trigger pull. Smooth is more important than light though. Especially as the SA is fine. Wolff sells a 'shooter's pak' with a hammer spring and 3 different weight rebound springs for $9. http://www.gunsprings.com/Revolver/SmithWesson_RvNF.html#S&WJ
Or if you know a machinist, it can be made. It's a 3/16" round bar with a slot cut on the end and bent. Have a look at the Brownell's tool for how it needs to be bent. http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=774&title=S&W+REBOUND+SLIDE+SPRING+TOOL
Just changing the springs will drop the DA trigger pull. Smooth is more important than light though. Especially as the SA is fine. Wolff sells a 'shooter's pak' with a hammer spring and 3 different weight rebound springs for $9. http://www.gunsprings.com/Revolver/SmithWesson_RvNF.html#S&WJ
Bill DeShivs
New member
S&W armorer school used to recommend a screwdriver.
Follow the advice to get an extra spring. If you need a written reference, buy Jerry Kuhnhausen's book. Rather than grind springs, I would spend $9 on a Wolff spring pack. That will let you try more than one spring weight for reliability.
I have taken to soaking springs and polished steel DA revolver parts for 72 hours in Sprinco Plate+ Silver before final assembly. This applies a lubrication coating that bonds to the steel.
I have taken to soaking springs and polished steel DA revolver parts for 72 hours in Sprinco Plate+ Silver before final assembly. This applies a lubrication coating that bonds to the steel.
For the more adventurous souls, there is a trick to reduce friction on the rebound slide. You put it in the milling machine and make shallow cuts down the center portion of the sides and bottom, leaving two narrow "rails". It doesn't make much difference, but there is some. Of course, a machinist will charge two arms and a left leg to do it, but those looking for some extra "edge" seem to like it.
Jim
Jim