Some hand loaders have reported issues with the Nickel building up in their dies and galling hand loads. I have never had that happen. What I have had happen, is nickeled .357 and .38 Special brass body cracking way before brass cases. In short, if I get Nickled brass for free (range pick-up), I will hand load it. But, when ordering new, I will not buy Nickled.Isnt nickel brass harder on reloading dies?
I do not segregate my cases for the .357 when doing fast double-action shooting with very light loads. So, I have a large amount of mixed, Nickled and Brass cases in a bulk lot. I noticed that, it was just the nickled cases that split and I had to discard. Rarely, a brass case would split, but my brass scrap container contents consists of almost all nickled cases. I have nothing against nickled cases, they look neat, but the life of the Nickled cases I have reloaded is much shorter than the brass.Nickle may be more brittle, but case life depends on other factors as well. I have some .357 nickel brass my dad picked up in the early 80's and loaded 13 times before giving it to me when I picked up my .357 mag. Since then, I have another 15 or so loadings through that same 50 cases, without a single split case, or any issue with bullet tension. Stay away from high pressure, max loads and excessive case mouth expansion, and your brass can last for years, be it nickel plated or plain brass.