Does anyone have experience replacing sights with roll pins?

M

mhessick

Inactive
I am trying to put a fiber optic sight onto my Browning Buck Mark Black Label pistol. Research on how to do this tells me the sight is secured using a roll pin. I have no experience with this.

Do I need to buy a set of roll pin punches, starters, and holders to replace this pin? Can I use a regular punch instead? The pin is very small, barely larger than the diameter of a paper clip. A set at Brownell's costs $109 and I might never use it once this sight has been done.

I called Browning tech support and although they were friendly, they were of no help at all. They couldn't even give me the dimensions of the sight so I could search for an aftermarket version.
 
Roll pins are a pain to deal with. Sometimes you can use a regular punch with no problems. Other times, especially if the pin fits very tightly, a regular punch will flatten/mushroom the end and may ruin the pin.

That said, are you SURE your Buckmark has a front sight that's attached with a roll pin? Most of the ones I've seen have the sight attached with a screw.
 
Roll pin removal

Thanks for your input. Yes, I believe this model uses a roll pin. It is attached to a top rail, something many Buck Mark's don't have. Without a top rail, screws are common. With it, it appears a roll pin is used. At first I thought it was a very small screw through the side of the rail. The hole is slightly larger than a paper clip. Then I found that it was hollow, and one end appears to have a flair. I am assuming that is a roll pin, but again, I have no experience so it is sort of an educated guess on my part.

One thread said that I would need not only a punch, but also a starter punch and a holder. I'll have a look at the set recommended, but are all three types of "punches" needed? If I should damage the roll pin, are they easily found?
 
One thread said that I would need not only a punch, but also a starter punch and a holder. I'll have a look at the set recommended, but are all three types of "punches" needed? If I should damage the roll pin, are they easily found?
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You may need all of those, my experience with roll pins is I have been able to make do with just the punch. If it's very tight the starter punch can help and a holder will make sure you don't mar anything and depending on how small the punch is can make your life a lot easier. The other alternative I see is to go to your local big box hardware store, grab a set of cheap roll pin punches, and if it seems like too much trouble return the cheap set. You'll get your money back and know for sure if you need something more substantial. Replacement pins and their ease of location depend on the pin and if you can get them from the manufacturer without too much trouble. You could try calling Browning and see if you can buy a few replacements in case you lose the original.
 
Roll pins can be found at real hardware stores (not big box stores) and some old-style auto parts stores. I wouldn't worry about a starter punch or holder. Needle nose pliers work fine as a pin holder. That and a pin punch should be plenty and, as said, you might get away with just a regular punch.

Cover everything you don't want scratched with masking or duct tape, secure the gun as well as you can so it can't move around, and have at it. It's not rocket surgery.

BTW, lube the pin before you drive it in and, if you can, chamfer the ends.
 
Roll pins can be found at real hardware stores (not big box stores) and some old-style auto parts stores.
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I've had mixed luck with this. Even the "real" hardware stores will often have something very similar, but not quite what I need. Set screws and roll pins are very specific and stocking every possible option is often out of the realm of possibility, but there are some really great stores that do stock a wide selection and may meet your needs. If they don't, in my experience the firearm manufacturer will often mail you small parts for free. S&W has done this for me a couple times for my Model 19 and the M&Ps I've had.
 
Best to talk to whoever made the fiber optic sight about putting it on. Something barely larger than the diameter of a paper clip is likely going to take a special tool.
Try small, electronics tech, needle nosed pliers, a filed flat finishing nail and a carpet tack mallet with the whole thing in a padded vise over a white poly tarp. And a magnifying glass used for tying flies. You may get away without using the mallet. Wouldn't be a bad thing.
 
Roll pins have advantages both for the manufacturer (cheap) and the user (stay in place).

But any roll pin can be replaced with a solid pin of the proper diameter. It shouid be tight enough that it has to be tapped in place, otherwise it can come out

Jim
 
Getting ready to put a Volquartsen rail on my BuckMark Plus UDX. This rail uses the existing rear sight and is secured by a roll pin. My question is...To remove the pin, I believe it is tapped out from right to left. Is this correct?
Thanks,
Jerry
 
Ref my previous post. I have been informed that there are some applications in which a roll pin is used as a bushing and another pin or spring is inserted through it. Obviously, in that case a roll pin cannot be replaced with a solid pin.

Jim
 
Getting ready to put a Volquartsen rail on my BuckMark Plus UDX. This rail uses the existing rear sight and is secured by a roll pin. My question is...To remove the pin, I believe it is tapped out from right to left. Is this correct?
Thanks,
Jerry
 
The typical convention is that pins come out from right to left (down to up) and go in from left to right (up to down).

Left/right and up/down are determined from the shooter's perspective while holding the gun in the normal shooting position.

It's really only a big deal if the hole or the pin is tapered, but unless you know for sure whether or not it is, it's best to stick with the convention.

If you can tell that one end of the pin is knurled to make it larger than the other end, then drive it out from the opposite end.
 
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