Do stainless barrels require longer breakin period?
- Thread starter tpcollins
- Start date
Here is the proper method for barrel break-in:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_LvPjreNjg
Seriously, there are many schools of thought on the subject.
Many, myself included, as well as some of the custom barrel manufacturers- believe it to be unnecessary.
Just shoot it...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_LvPjreNjg
Seriously, there are many schools of thought on the subject.
Many, myself included, as well as some of the custom barrel manufacturers- believe it to be unnecessary.
Just shoot it...
ndking1126
New member
"Break-in" should be nothing more than clean the barrel before you take it shooting the first time (to make sure there is nothing left behind from the manufacturing process) and then shoot and clean at the same interval you would with any other rifle.
As mentioned, there are my different schools of thoughts on this. Normally this is when I would copy and paste links from major barrel manufacturer's websites that say it's not necessary or "we only give a break-in procedure because our customers seem to think they need one" but I won't because it appears you already have decided you believe in breaking in a barrel.. Which is cool, it doesn't bother me at all! A day at the range is a day at the range
As mentioned, there are my different schools of thoughts on this. Normally this is when I would copy and paste links from major barrel manufacturer's websites that say it's not necessary or "we only give a break-in procedure because our customers seem to think they need one" but I won't because it appears you already have decided you believe in breaking in a barrel.. Which is cool, it doesn't bother me at all! A day at the range is a day at the range
warbirdlover
New member
I'm a retired metallurgist and IMHO there would be no difference in break in between stainless and alloy steel barrels. The stainless is a lower chromium higher carbon version (400 series) of stainless steel so it can be hardened to similar (HRC 32-36) hardness as the alloy (usually 4140 series) steels. So if they are both the same hardness they should both wear pretty similar. The stainless will wear slightly slower due to the higher chromium but not where you'd notice it unless you fired hundreds and hundreds (thousands?) of rounds through the barrel.
speedyjerry
Moderator
I always thought "Breaking in a new barrel" was just another excuse to go shooting with the fella's, "Honey, I have to break in another barrel, I'll be right back".
Kreyzhorse
New member
+1. I've never seen any thing that convinces me that barrel break in is really needed.
Jim Watson
New member
Krieger shows a shorter break in for stainless than for CM.
Stainless
5 one-shot cycles
1 three-shot cycle
1 five-shot cycle
Chrome moly
5 - 25 - one-shot cycles
2 - three-shot cycles
1 - five-shot cycle
Of course we all know that they just want you to wear out and replace your barrel sooner. And we all shoot calibers so hot that 13-36 shots are a large fraction of the barrel life.
Stainless
5 one-shot cycles
1 three-shot cycle
1 five-shot cycle
Chrome moly
5 - 25 - one-shot cycles
2 - three-shot cycles
1 - five-shot cycle
Of course we all know that they just want you to wear out and replace your barrel sooner. And we all shoot calibers so hot that 13-36 shots are a large fraction of the barrel life.
Thanks for the replies. The link wouldn't load but there was a barrel polish procedure that I started using on my new rifles new rifles but it wouldn't open. Basically it's just to be sure all of the manufacturing fines have been remove by pouring boiling water down the barrel, several patches with Flitz to "polish" the inside and a final rinse of boiling water.
I did this to .22 that I bought and that little baby is a tack driver.
I did this to .22 that I bought and that little baby is a tack driver.
FrankenMauser
New member
I've never noticed a difference between CM and SS.
bullspotter
New member
I break in my rifle barrels. But not the same way and not for the reason they will be more accurate.
If it is a high end barrel, it pry was made with high end equipment and with SHRARP tools, reducing the marks in the barrel, it was also pry lapped and cleaned, so this barrel is pry good to just go shoot. In cheaper barrels, I have found that the marks dont really cause poor accuracy as they do fouling, A realy fouled dirty barrel will lose acuracy.
On a new barrel, Ill clean it before it goes out to the range for the first time, Ill shoot 1 round, and then clean to see how much copper has built up. If it seems like alot or more then normal, ill shoot 1 and clean 3 or 4 times. Then ill shoot 2 and clean 2 or 3 times and then thats it. Normaly after 10-12 rounds its not getting much copper build up in it. Most damage to barrels is caused by over cleaning it the wrong way.
If it is a high end barrel, it pry was made with high end equipment and with SHRARP tools, reducing the marks in the barrel, it was also pry lapped and cleaned, so this barrel is pry good to just go shoot. In cheaper barrels, I have found that the marks dont really cause poor accuracy as they do fouling, A realy fouled dirty barrel will lose acuracy.
On a new barrel, Ill clean it before it goes out to the range for the first time, Ill shoot 1 round, and then clean to see how much copper has built up. If it seems like alot or more then normal, ill shoot 1 and clean 3 or 4 times. Then ill shoot 2 and clean 2 or 3 times and then thats it. Normaly after 10-12 rounds its not getting much copper build up in it. Most damage to barrels is caused by over cleaning it the wrong way.