do it yourself

mike... never done it, but a buffing wheel, and jewlers rouge, on a Dremel tool oughtta work...

I use that combo FREQUENTLY on smoothing triggers...
 
I haven't done a 1911, but I have polished the ramps on my SIG barrels. I used a Dremel tool with their felt bob and Flitz metal polish. Clamp the barrel in a bench vise between two pieces of wood. Take it slow.
 
Sure, did mine with a Dremel tool with a strip of 600 grit paper secured to a small stone with duct tape. Worked great on two different 1911s.
 
I've done it on a SigP230 (it was a pain in the but since it's a blowback with the barrel mounted to the frame) with great effect. It was a used gun that wasn't feeding very well, so I polished the ramp with a dremel and an exceedingly fine polishing point. Also EVER SO SLIGHTLY throated the barrel (really just polished the throat). Followed up with jewelers rouge and elbow grease. Now it feeds perfectly.

The key is to take it slow, use a dremel, figure out what grit abrasive you want to use and go one level finer. Take off too much material and you can cause more prolems than you fix.
 
Did my AO 1911. Stripped the frame. Used emery and wet and dry sandpaper working up to 800 grit. Used strip of abrasive paper on pinky finger to get into ramp area from the top. Kept at it until it was like glass. Touched up with cold blue. Thoroughly cleaned all abrasive from frame, reassembled and lubed. Now feeds everything I've tried except CCI Lawman.
 
Easily done. I use a Dremel tool, but a variable speed drill works too. Use a hard felt bob, and Simichrome polish. Do not alter the feed angle or profile in any way. Works for me.
 
I'm another Dremel tool polishing man, done it to many pistols, and they all still shoot. :) It's easy if you take your time, I use the Dremel jeweler's polish that came with the tool, though I've gone through several of them...
 
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