Do-it-yourself refinishing? Opinions, please!

V

voodoo

New member
I have a SS Kahr MK9 that I'd like to get refinished in a matte black. I've been getting quotes from various smiths/finishing outfits, and prices are running $150 - $200, plus shipping, insurance, etc.

I've been taking a hard look at possibly doing it myself, using the Teflon/Moly Oven Bake Gun Finish avaiable through Brownells. Cost: $25

Opinions?

I figure, I can try the Brownells, and if it doesn't work out, I can just send it to get professionaly refinished, and only be out $25.

Does anyone have any first-hand experience with refinishing their guns, particulary with the Brownells Teflon product? How durable is it? Does it need to be reapplied? Am I just being cheap?

Help!!!!!! :confused:
 
I can remember getting into a pretty big deal with my wife over doing oven coat in her oven! It smells a bit! The finish worked pretty good though. Please don't think unkindly of my wife, she lets me warm by boots in her oven before I put Snow Seal on them without comment. Go figure.
HTH
 
Voodoo, you'll be happier with the teflon finish vice the lacquer. The teflon works great on semi-auto pistols. Not so well on revolvers. As Hank said, it do raise a stink in the kitchen so allow for flowers in the budget. George
 
Guys, you're not suppose to bake it in your oven. You find the kid next door and bake it in his mom's oven. Slip him a $10 and he'll be a happy camper. Besides, you don't have to live with his mother.
 
I've gotten great results with both the Teflon/Moly, and Baking Lacquer (actually an epoxy-modified lacquer; the Teflon/Moly finish is epoxy-based as well) from our friends at Brownells. The Teflon/Molybdenym Disulfide finish has much better lubricity, better "hiding" properties (that little scratch will be GONE), and higher surface hardness than the lacquer. I REALLY like the Teflon/Moly for shotguns where it makes the little imperfections that won't polish or bead-blast out all but vanish. My Moss 500 boat gun has this finish, and it's slick and has held up well considering the constant abuse it gets! The lacquer actually produces a nice finish, and is comparitively durable, but use the three coats recommended to build surface thickness for maximum chip resistance. It also can be sanded, touched-up and re-baked if there is ever any damage to the finish. I have a Lacquered High-Power with a couple thousand rounds through it, and God knows how much dry-fire practice, and handling, and the only place the finish has chipped is at the mag well where I "missed" when changing mags. The Teflon would have done the same thing. If you're planning on applying the finish inside the slide or frame, take into consideration that the thickness of the finish will tighten up the slide/frame, and other parts fit tolerances of the gun. Sometimes to the point of not being able to get the slide back on! Go light here. A friend just had me Lacquer an STG-58 shooter/beater for his brother. The catch was he needed it in 2 days. I had 1, lone 6 ounce can of Baking lacquer. Although I didn't like the idea of letting a one coat finish go out of here, I was able to do everything but the upper receiver with one fairly heavy coat. It has chipped where the Bi-Pod legs slap against the handguards when closing, and where it has hit the doors of his truck while coming in/getting out, but has held up well enough for him to want me to do another STG ...CORRECTLY (3 COATS!) this time BY MY INSISTANCE. He wants the handguards done in the Stainless Gray-hued lacquer on this one. Should produce an interesting contrast with the rest of the gun in black! AND VENTILATING FANS AND OPEN WINDOWS ARE IN ORDER WHILE BAKING! Good Luck and Take Care- Dakotan

[This message has been edited by Dakotan (edited April 28, 2000).]
 
Also be sure to throughly clean the firearm before spraying on the finish. For those of you who have bluing set ups, a bluing tank with wire holders in it, a lid and burner make a great oven for curing your long guns. Put the end of your thermometer in the pan and closely monitor the temp. A light sand blast of the metal surface really helps hold the finish.
 
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