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"Do it yourself bluing?"
- Thread starter Tracer
- Start date
Walt Sherrill
New member
I have an old "shooter" Luger, with no collector's value. I've stripped it down to white metal (using the Birchwood Casey rust and blue remover) and then reblued it using Brownell's Ox-Pho Blue. It took a while, with the bluing compound applied in very thin coats (using an almost-dry patch), but it now looks like it had never been reblued, with a nice dark blue (almost black) finish.
Ox-Pho Blue, which was recommended to me by George Stringer, moderator of TFL's "The Smithy" forum, is the only cold blue I've ever really had success with, although I've found that using several other brands in conjunction with Ox-Pho blue gives very nice results, when "patching" or "repairing" bad spots.
I bought a BIG bottle, but you can probably get buy with a small one. Most of the stuff you'll find in gunshops and sporting goods stores simply won't work... or will come off the first time you clean the gun.
Ox-Pho Blue, which was recommended to me by George Stringer, moderator of TFL's "The Smithy" forum, is the only cold blue I've ever really had success with, although I've found that using several other brands in conjunction with Ox-Pho blue gives very nice results, when "patching" or "repairing" bad spots.
I bought a BIG bottle, but you can probably get buy with a small one. Most of the stuff you'll find in gunshops and sporting goods stores simply won't work... or will come off the first time you clean the gun.
Meander over to www.brownells.com and check out their re-finishing supplies. They have a couple of "spray on and bake" finishes that are reported to wear well.
HerrJaegermeister
New member
Try some heat too
I have used Brownell's Oxpho Blue as well. It is the best "cold blue" out there. The Birchwood Casey and other products are not in the same league.
Here is a hint: Try heating the metal a bit with a hot air gun, but do not get it too hot, just very warm. The heat will allow a deeper blue. Just warm and then apply. You will need a few coats for it to really take.
It really does produce a nice black surface that is quite wear-resistant.
If that doesn't work, get that Mak chromed with pearl grips!!!
I have used Brownell's Oxpho Blue as well. It is the best "cold blue" out there. The Birchwood Casey and other products are not in the same league.
Here is a hint: Try heating the metal a bit with a hot air gun, but do not get it too hot, just very warm. The heat will allow a deeper blue. Just warm and then apply. You will need a few coats for it to really take.
It really does produce a nice black surface that is quite wear-resistant.
If that doesn't work, get that Mak chromed with pearl grips!!!