Do I Have A Wall Hanger?

G

Griswold

New member
Folks - In the brass frame :eek: of one of my solid - frame cap-n-ball revolvers, (an old Pietta), I noticed that the top of the trigger is visible, when the trigger is depressed and the hammer is not cocked. It is visible at those moments at the corner of the recoil shield, just poking into the frame. The brass (apparently very thin in that area, at the lower right of the cylinder cut-out, if barrel enters frame at your upper left) has "torn", or given way a bit in that area, allowing the tip of the trigger to push a bit of it up. At first, I was really concerned about this, but then I remembered that the cylinder locking bolt also enters thru a hole in the frame. This is a .36, so I don't shoot any kind of "hot loads" out of it. Anyone else have this problem?Thoughts?
 
I think I can picture what you have going on. If you wanted to you could braze it, and grind or file it down. Or file it flat and clean get a piece of brass and just epoxy it to the frame, and clean up the sharp edges. Or just fill it in with some good hard epoxy. Either should last for the life of the Rev.
My guess is it shouldn't hurt anything to shoot it...Not a wall hanger yet if it's not too big or hurting anything.
 
Smokin_Gun -

Thanks for the input. I'm going to try the epoxy method, as I've no access to brazing stuff. The brass is thin enough at the weak point that hopefully it'll bond, once smeared under & around the tear spot. I'll also probably put a trigger stop in the T/G, to stop the "overpivot" (ne "overtravel") that caused this problem. (How to make that look authentic?)

Thanks,
Griswold
 
Silly question: Is it possible to stick something inside the slot through which the trigger protrudes? Something to shorten the slot, so that the new rear surface of the trigger slot would be your trigger stop. It would "look authentic" because it would be hidden, unless you specifically looked for it.

A thin shim of brass would be less visible. A lump of solder , carefully applied, you could file down until it was just the right thickness. Plastic sheet, epoxied into place, would provide some cushioning to prevent metal-on-metal contact and wear, and would be something you could crack out with an X-Acto knife to remove or redo.
 
Hafoc -

Thanks for the idea. If I can control the "overtravel" that way, I'll do'er. As the trigger pivots on its screw, in firing, all the stress will be repeatedly put on the "repaired" spot, unless a trigger stop is employed. My original idea was to make a more conventional stop, that would meet the trigger toward the back of the guard, using a screw of some sort drilled in from the rear of the guard. I like your idea better. Appreciate the assistance!
 
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