DIY Rifle Targets... I'm done with these I think

W

WWWJD

New member
Fueled by boredom and the need to draw stuff, I finished off my 100 and 200 yard rifle targets. Just figured I'd share them with you guys; I used the small diamonds a few days ago and really liked it compared to some others I've tried and seen. Squeezed a 5th one on there, numbered them and applied the cross-hatch fill on the middle so I can see the hits in the "black". These will print all day long on 8-1/2 x 11. I'm going to do a 300 yard, but I'll need to print them at work on 11 x 17; probably throw that one on here tomorrow. If this is not the appropriate place for this post, feel free to move it.

Enjoy.

5%20Diamond%20Rifle%20Target%20100%20yds.jpg
1%20Diamond%20Rifle%20Target%20200%20yds.jpg
1%20Diamond%20Rifle%20Target%20300%20yds.jpg
 

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going shooting on saturday. going to sight in a new scope on my .22.

im going to use your 100 yard target. for some reason, the orange/beige targets they sell for sighting in dont work well for my eyes.

ill post a report on how well they work.
 
Thank You

Thanks for sharing those. I plan to try the 100 yd target with my new to me 243 on Thursday if the weather permits.

Cary
 
capreppy said:
excuse my ignorance (new to rifles), what is MIL?
Click to expand...
Some scopes are click in inches (a linear measure) and others in MILs (a radial measure). With most scopes, there will be a label inside the scope's screw caps with something like 1 click = 1/4" at 100 yards. So, if you're shooting at any range other than 100-yards, you'll have to convert to know how many clicks are needed for an adjustment. It gets more complicated when you are shooting at an unknown distance.

If you gun's scope has MIL based clicks, your angle of correction is the same for any distance. There is no conversion nor range estimating needed. But, you do need a scope (or spotting scope) with a reticle calibrated in MILs so you can determine the required adjustment.

With WWWJD's targets, at the appropriate range, if your scope clicks in MILs, then the reference scale eliminates the need for a calibrated reticle to make the corrections. A 1/10 MIL scope gets 10 clicks per notch. Note, the MIL scale is doubled at the 200-yard range.
 
As promised, I uploaded the 300 yard target; 11 x 17" paper. Like the 200 yard, the diamond is high with heavy inch lines to gauge come up required to zero.

capreppy: excuse my ignorance (new to rifles), what is MIL?
Click to expand...

To add to zippy13's explanation, "MIL" is an abbreviation for Milli-radian. 1 radian = 57.3 degrees, therefore one milli-radian = 0.0573 degrees. A MIL-Dot scope uses a mil-dot reticle, and is quite simply a range finding tool. I'm a visual learner mostly.. so I threw together the attached when I got my first one just a few months ago. 1 MIL = 3.6" at 100 yards or 36" at 1000 yards. This is a really simple relationship to remember, and when your target's height is known in inches or yards, the range finding gets pretty easy with the attached equations.

Likewise, "MOA" is an abbreviation for Minute Of Angle. 1 MOA = 1/60th of 1 degree. A much more precise measurement than the MIL, but impossible to properly incorporate on a reticle. Often you will hear someone yell (like me) that they just shot a 0.5 MOA group at 200 yards.. this is the most common way to describe your angular error in shooting, regardless of distance. 1 MOA = 1" on the paper at 100 yards, 2" on the paper at 200 yards, and so on and so forth. Again, this is a really easy relationship to remember.

My scope is adjustable in 1/10th MIL increments on the turrets. I know if I crank the turret one click in any direction, I'll be changing my point of impact by 0.36" in said direction at 100 yards. (assuming that I have the ability to stay still enough to see the difference;) These POI changes will double at 200 yards.

Most scopes however are MOA adjustment, in 1/4 or 1/8 MOA increments. I click in any direction will drift your POI 1/4" or 1/8" in said direction at 100 yards.

MOA is more precise, but for me and my learning curve, I decided to go with the MIL adjustment. It seemed easier, but I guess either one would have worked out the same with practice. .36" vs. .25" adjustments at 100 yards are really splitting hairs.. either one is really gonna do fine; everyone will have their preference.

Ranging%20with%20MIL.jpg


1 MIL = 3.44 MOA

Is it brutally obvious that I'm bored yet? :p
 

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Nice!

It's awesome to see a few extremely useful posts from time to time! Thanks!

Hmmm... Now I think I'll go start a "AR15 vs Mini 14 vs Barret 50BMG in Tundra warfare Zombie defense" thread.

:rolleyes:;)
 
I suppose you can put then at any distance you wish, but when placed at 100, 200 and 300 yards respectively, the diamonds and the white 1 MOA centers will all appear to be the the same size through a fixed power scope.
 
Sorry for the thread necromancy here.

What computer program did you use to make them? I'd love to be able to experiment! Thanks.
 
I use Microsoft Visio for just about everything, including these. As mentioned before, seeing the shots in the black isn't as big a problem on these; thickness of the cross-hatch lines could probably be a little better, but through the spotting scope this weekend, everything was working out pretty good.

200%252520Yard%252520Groups%252520053111.jpg
 
Over the years I've tried various targets and find for me plain white poster paper and 1/2 inch note book rings comes in various colors from walmart and office supply stores works best the white center with color ring presents a great aim point but I'm using a 20 power scope.:D
 
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