Dillon 550b lubrication

Roland Thunder

New member
I know it has been said that the main shaft should be lubed with 30w motor oil but I don't have any. Can I use gun oil instead (Hoppe's)? I may be moving and I don't want to have a bottle of motor oil laying around that I will have to dispose of, so I don't want to buy one.
 
Bad idea. Gun oil is much thinner and can actually increase wear on some mechanical devices by suspending grit and acting as a cutting lube for it.

See if one of your neighbors has an older lawn mower. They almost always use 30W non-detergent motor oil, which is what you want.
 
I used 3 in 1 electric motor oil. The stuff in the blue & white can. Its dirt cheap from Lowes & just fling out what you don't use.

Or (plan "b")
Go to the local gas station/garage & scrounge an "empty" oil can. There's probably enough left inside one to do a lube, it only takes 3 or 4 drips.:cool:

Lastly
Plan "c"
drip a few drops from the car dipstick into a disposable container & let sit overnight. Use Q-tips to take just from the top & drip into the fitting. Most of the carbon & grit will have dropped to the bottom overnight.
 
Agree with the above. 30W motor oil is commonly used as a cheap substitute for Mobil Vactra 2 Way Oil by people with old machinery they want to maintain on the cheap. Vactra 2 is better if you have a machine shop around that will give you a little.

3-in-1 Electric Motor oil is 20W, so it's a little thin for best wear prevention and precision. What you are looking for is not only lubrication and wear prevention, but an oil with enough viscosity to keep a thick enough lubricating film to float the ram in its journal and tend to self-center in it. That way it isn't rubbing or wearing much of anywhere, and I'm sure that's the basis for the choice of viscosity. Thicker oil would float it, but one that's too viscous will cause drag and may tend to suck air in the end that is entering the journal and not flow fast enough to back fill these cavities as they form. The choice is a best compromise in the end.

Detergent motor oils are great for a system that has an oil pump and a filter, because the detergent, even better than using a thin oil, cleans and suspends dirt and grit and other deposits for the filter to remove. If you don't have oil circulation and a filter, though, the dirt and grit are sleeping dogs often better left where they lay. The lack of a filter is, AFAIK, the main reason detergent oils were not recommended for small engines for so long, but newer ones are designed to put up with it. That's probably both for convenience and possibly because they figured out having motors ultimately wear out and need replacement was good for business.

I doubt the multiple viscosity additives matter much one way or the other to a machine like a loading press that doesn't get hot, just as long as the room temperature viscosity equals the 30W more or less. I've never inquired as to which range you would buy to achieve that equivalency. I can tell you that Mobil 1 0-W-20 synthetic detergent motor oil makes a very good gun carbon remover if you aren't in too much of a hurry for it to act or if you use it when the gun is hot. I was told the AMU uses it for all their general cleaning and lubrication in their match rifles.
 
I have been using Vactra #2 way oil for the last 22 years on my 550b. I clean the ram before lubricating with a clean rag or paper towel at the start of each handloading session.

If you stop by a machine shop with your own small container, they will probably give you a few ounces for free. I apply it with a artist type paintbrush to the ram and a small orfice bottle anywhere else that I use it on the press. a few ounces will last quite awhile.

I own my machine shop, so I buy it by the gallon. :D
 
It would seem that Vactra #2 way oil would be a good choice for lubing the slide, rails on 1911 and similar autos...or is that going to start something?:D
 
When it comes to lubing my Dillion 550b, aside from the ram, years ago I come to the conclusion that the oil in the oil holes was not a very good lubing method, so I disassembled, drilled and tapped the oil holes and inserted grease zerks. I figured that grease would be a much better lube on those bearing points and from what I understand, or I think I have read that Dillon ships now ships 550b's with grease zerks instead of oil holes...is that so?
 
Yes there have been several revisions over time.
IIRC 3 of them.
Plain (gen 1) no holes, no nutz no zerks.
Plain with holes in link arms (gen 2) squirt grease in with adapter on grease gun.
Zerked with grease cuts in axis pins (gen 3) pump in through ends.
They still suggest oil on ram arm, but grease on pivots.
 
You should be using a straight 30 weight oil.

Stopped by an auto parts store (on my way to the range ;)) and picked up my quart of 30W non-detergent. Lubed up the rams on my new Dillon and my old RCBS single-stage. 30W is definitely thicker than Browning gun oil.

For the record, my RCBS is 31 years old and from 1984 to 2012, all I ever used to lube the ram was Break Free. It seems to be none the worse for wear - quite literally. I learned a few years back that penetrating oil was a no-no, so I switched to gun oil. Finally, after 31 years, I'm using the correct lubricant now lol.
 
Buy a can of 30 weight. It will last you forever.

Other oils will bind the main shaft and you will then have to disassemble your machine, clean everything with mineral spirits, put it back together and oil it. Don't forget to grease where it needs it.

Dillon has great videos on their website on how to maintain your equipment.
 
Other oils will bind the main shaft and you will then have to disassemble your machine, clean everything with mineral spirits, put it back together and oil it.
I haven't found that to be true in 30 years of owning both an RL450 & an RL 550b.
Gun oil is probably too thin though.
 
Back
Top