Dillion Square deal B problem-Maybe
- Thread starter 1Longbow
- Start date
I do both look in the cases and also I use and RCBS lockout die for pistol rounds and a Hornady powder cop for rifle rounds. Both will indicate if you have an over or under or no charge of powder. I would not reload without them. With 45 acp it is easy to look in each case, 38, 357 and rifle loads not so easy to see the powder.
OP, something else is wrong. I've loaded over 230,000 rounds on my old SD in 15 years and never had a squib. Plus there is no room for a check die on a SD, it doesn't have enough stations or use standard 7/8-"14 dies. Most guys running progressives rig a small light to look in the case. Make sure your powder hopper is secure to the powder thru die, if that is not right, it can cause issues. And if something messes up during loading, like you get a crimped primer case stuck at the priming station, then pull the cases from all the stations and put them aside. That is usually where people get in trouble. Also make sure your fail safe linkage is properly adjusted. Dillon progressives will only throw charges down to about +/- .1 grains, so don't look for more than that, and the OAL will vary (full stations) about +/- .003". For more info, go to the Dillion Reloading forum at BrianEnos. com. The Dillon rep is on the forum.
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showforum=78
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showforum=78
Make sure you run the handle all the way down against the stops at each load cycle. Failing to do that can prevent the slide bar from moving far enough to drop powder properly. Shaking the hopper should not be required as the whole machine shakes during operation, but if you are using a large flake powder, like Unique, tap it anyway to make sure the powder hasn't bridged and blocked itself from dropping into the measure. Don't try for super light charges with a coarse flake powder like that, either. You can make the powder charge cavity small enough that it more likely to bridge and block dropping in.
sawdustdad
New member
I, too, have loaded tens of thousands of rounds on three square deal presses and never had a squib.
You are doing something wrong or your press is defective.
You are doing something wrong or your press is defective.
Take your powder measure off and make sure the plastic bushing is still in there.
If it's not that is your problem. You can find it in the last can you returned powder to.
But yes, if you visually verify each powder charge you won't have squibs. If can be difficult to see down inside tall dark cases and mirrors/lights can help out a lot.
If it's not that is your problem. You can find it in the last can you returned powder to.
But yes, if you visually verify each powder charge you won't have squibs. If can be difficult to see down inside tall dark cases and mirrors/lights can help out a lot.
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g.willikers
New member
Did you check to see of the powder drop slide is working free and easy?
And the return spring is in place?
A good cleaning to keep it running back and forth smoothly might be occasionally needed.
And a little light shining down on the bullet seating position is definitely a good idea on any press.
The mirror is a really good idea, too.
Might add that one to mine.
And the return spring is in place?
A good cleaning to keep it running back and forth smoothly might be occasionally needed.
And a little light shining down on the bullet seating position is definitely a good idea on any press.
The mirror is a really good idea, too.
Might add that one to mine.
Depends on how old his is but they quit putting return springs on the powder measures a long time ago. Actually pretty sure before the "B" revision.
The original linkage is the black one, then they came out with the failsafe rod and switched to the one on the measure, you didn't need the return springs at that point.
The ones they send out now are different to prevent double charges from a short stroke.
One thing they all have in common is that they need the plastic bushing to operate correctly.
The original linkage is the black one, then they came out with the failsafe rod and switched to the one on the measure, you didn't need the return springs at that point.
The ones they send out now are different to prevent double charges from a short stroke.
One thing they all have in common is that they need the plastic bushing to operate correctly.
jmorris, yes, the newer SD's come with the Harley shifter linkage, and like a Harley, it shakes and makes allot of noise. I took all that off and went back to the springs, and now it acts like a Gold Wing, you could put a nickle on edge on the press and it won't move and you can't even hear it cycle.....
Allow me to add emphasis to what Jmorris said about the plastic bushing. I had one fall out, unnoticed, one time, and not only got near squibs but near double-charges, as if the powder for one load were hanging up on top of the drop tube, then getting added to the powder charge for the next round. I should add that I was using a drop tube/operating rod that I'd made myself to a Lyman M type profile and that had a flatter top portion, so I don't know this will happen with a factory rod. But irregular powder charges in some degree can happen with one and never a positive.
When I found the errant bushing on the floor and figured out what it was and put it back, the problems stopped. The symptom during operation, other than the irregular charges, was rocking by the measure during operation. If you ever see that, stop and look.
When I found the errant bushing on the floor and figured out what it was and put it back, the problems stopped. The symptom during operation, other than the irregular charges, was rocking by the measure during operation. If you ever see that, stop and look.