Difference between S&W Models 10 and 13

pojim

New member
Local shop has a nice model 10 I can get for a good deal, but I've been looking for a model 13. As far as I can tell, they are identical in the frame and barrel, the only difference would be the cylinder. Would any knowledgeable wheelgunners give me opinions such as, would it be wise to get a second cylinder in .357 or could I have the chambers deepened for the .357, or would I be asking for trouble?

I'd probably shoot mostly .38s anyway, but I would like to have the extra option of the .357.

Thanks,
pojim
 
You'd actually be a lot better off getting the Model 13 and shooting .38 Specials out of it, rather than trying to get another cylinder for the Model 10.

Depending on the age of the Model 10, it may not have the type of heat treating that is necessary for it to be safetly used with .357 Mag. ammo.

Reaming the chambers on a Model 10, especially one of the mid-1960s or earlier, would be a BAD idea.

The 13 grew out of the Model 10-6, which had the heat treating, but I believe the 13 also has a slightly altered frame configuration that allows it to withstand the .357 Mag. a little better.
 
The model 13 cylinder is longer than the model 10's. It won't fit in a Model 10's frame. You could bore the model 10's chambers out to a .357s case length, but I wouldn't. Get the model 13 and shoot .38s from it when you want to. Or, better yet, get a model 10 and a model 13!:D
 
Thanks for the quick and informative responses. I will continue my search for a nice model 13.

pojim
 
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