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Dies for reloading 38 special and 357
- Thread starter Blm
- Start date
You do not need any new dies. You simply properly adjust those dies for the case length of the caliber you are reloading.
HOWEVER - if those old dies are not carbide dies, I strongly recommend that you do throw them away and buy new .38 Spl dies. While steel dies will work just fine for both .38 and .357, the trouble of messing with case lube just ain't worth the small cost of a new set of carbide dies! (Actually, the only new die you need is the sizing die - so if you can buy just a carbide sizer - ANY brand - cheaper than a new 3-die set - that is the way to go. Personally, I'd check out a Lee carbide sizer for .38 Spl.)
HOWEVER - if those old dies are not carbide dies, I strongly recommend that you do throw them away and buy new .38 Spl dies. While steel dies will work just fine for both .38 and .357, the trouble of messing with case lube just ain't worth the small cost of a new set of carbide dies! (Actually, the only new die you need is the sizing die - so if you can buy just a carbide sizer - ANY brand - cheaper than a new 3-die set - that is the way to go. Personally, I'd check out a Lee carbide sizer for .38 Spl.)
You can resize the brass with one size die.
When expanding, you will need to adjust for each caliber each time you switch.
Same applies when seating and crimping.
I got a carbide sizing die to go with my 38 Spec. dies and the 357. Works for both without having to adjust anything.
When expanding, you will need to adjust for each caliber each time you switch.
Same applies when seating and crimping.
I got a carbide sizing die to go with my 38 Spec. dies and the 357. Works for both without having to adjust anything.
Last edited:
Did you mean to say, "You can resize the brass with one sizing die."?You can resize the brass with one seater die.
LeverGunFan
New member
If your die set does not have a spacer ring, you can purchase one to accommodate the .135 inch difference in the cartridge length between the 38 Special and the 357 Magnum. Use the spacer for the bullet seating and crimp operation, but not the sizing die. Here's a link to information on spacer rings:
http://www.uniquetek.com/store/696296/uploaded/Die_Shims_and_Die_Spacers.pdf
http://www.uniquetek.com/store/696296/uploaded/Die_Shims_and_Die_Spacers.pdf
The die that deprimes is the sizing die, the second die expands the case mouth ever so slightly (when set properly) and the third die seats and crimps the bullet. For 357, add the spacer ring as mentioned above.
I would NOT throw the old dies away unless they were totally thrashed. You could always sell them and apply those funds towards new ones. Folks do collect older die sets.
I would NOT throw the old dies away unless they were totally thrashed. You could always sell them and apply those funds towards new ones. Folks do collect older die sets.
"...throw them away and..." Nope. No need to throw the whole set away. If the sizer die isn't carbide(it'll have a visible carbide insert), just buy a carbide sizer die. Runs $39.99 at Midway and there's a $10 rebate if you buy $50 worth of stuff. Like the die and a shell holder. Needs a coupon.
RCBS .38/.357 die sets used to come with a 1/8" thick spacer that made up the difference in case length.
"...won't have to readjust the dies for each..." Doesn't work though.
RCBS .38/.357 die sets used to come with a 1/8" thick spacer that made up the difference in case length.
"...won't have to readjust the dies for each..." Doesn't work though.
I just started using my RCBS Rock Chucker today to learn 38/357 and making the roll crimp. I'm new and so are the dies. The set cost me $44 at Midway (3-die set carbide) and comes with the aforementioned spacer for 357 use.
What I did (more experienced correct me if wrong, please) was to make a .38 spl dummy round using a lead FN bullet to learn the roll crimp. I followed the included instructions, used my digital caliper and did everything according to the sheet. OAL was 1.445" according to my Lyman manual. Came out pretty decent if I DO say so myself.
Then I put the included spacer/washer in and did the same using a .357 case. The caliper said all was OK (Lyman again...) using the .38 and sticking the spacer in.
Now I have 1 - .38spl dummy bullet, 1 - .357 dummy bullet and adjusted dies plus a decent idea of how to roll-crimp. BTW - more experienced members: Is the roll-crimp easily visible? Mine seem to be crimped and there is a .01" difference between the body of the case(s) and the mouth (according to the caliper.)
What I did (more experienced correct me if wrong, please) was to make a .38 spl dummy round using a lead FN bullet to learn the roll crimp. I followed the included instructions, used my digital caliper and did everything according to the sheet. OAL was 1.445" according to my Lyman manual. Came out pretty decent if I DO say so myself.
Then I put the included spacer/washer in and did the same using a .357 case. The caliper said all was OK (Lyman again...) using the .38 and sticking the spacer in.
Now I have 1 - .38spl dummy bullet, 1 - .357 dummy bullet and adjusted dies plus a decent idea of how to roll-crimp. BTW - more experienced members: Is the roll-crimp easily visible? Mine seem to be crimped and there is a .01" difference between the body of the case(s) and the mouth (according to the caliper.)
Bob Wright
New member
You have a very old set of dies. Current dies de-prime with the sizing die. Your set deprimes on the neck expander. You can convert by buying the proper decapping pin assembly, but as has been pointed out, likely a new carbide die is in order.
Bob Wright
Bob Wright
Thank you for the help everyone. I got it all figured out what was throwing me off is the decapper is with the expander and the sizer is a different die all my other sets of dies decap and resize and another one expands the case.
Bob wright beat me to it everything still works good on them I have always used lube even on my carbide dies so it is not a big deal for me to lube
Bob wright beat me to it everything still works good on them I have always used lube even on my carbide dies so it is not a big deal for me to lube
I have one set for 38 WCs only.
No need for a full set, just the third seating/crimping die
How do I find out if mybdies are carbide?
When looking at the resizing die base, you will see a ring insert that is slightly different in color - that is the carbide part
If you're able able to resize the brass without the use of lube there's a good chance it's carbide, however I don't think the dies would be 30-40 years old if that's the case.
The easiest way to deal with brass that has been over expanded is to toss it into the trash or scrap brass pile. Once the brass has been stretched too much I'd be hesitant to use it even if I could get it resized.
If the dies aren't carbide it will be cheaper to just buy some Hornady spray case lube and use that. The lube is easy to use, not messy and easy to clean up. I've heard it doesn't work well for rifle cases but I can vouch that is does just fine for 38 special.
i prefer some aspects the old RCBS dies over new dies. Unless they have been abused they will work just fine.
The easiest way to deal with brass that has been over expanded is to toss it into the trash or scrap brass pile. Once the brass has been stretched too much I'd be hesitant to use it even if I could get it resized.
If the dies aren't carbide it will be cheaper to just buy some Hornady spray case lube and use that. The lube is easy to use, not messy and easy to clean up. I've heard it doesn't work well for rifle cases but I can vouch that is does just fine for 38 special.
i prefer some aspects the old RCBS dies over new dies. Unless they have been abused they will work just fine.
however I don't think the dies would be 30-40 years old if that's the case.
I don't know why not. I started reloading back around 1980 and my RCBS dies from that era ARE carbide.
I bought a second set for two reasons. Like others, one set for wadcutters and for round nose. The first set I bought several years ago had a powder thru the die expander which I don't like so two out of the three new dies were a welcome improvement. Considering dies last pretty much a life time cost isn't that big a deal.
You can use spacers if you have complete control of the respective trim lengths on the brass. Miscellaneous fired brass can be all over the spectrum on length, meaning a very inconsistent crimp and positioning of the crimp groove in the seating.
To avoid redoing the setup or tweaking for every length bracket of brass and between calibers, it's just more practical to have more than one set of dies, even including a separate turret where applicable. Then you have to decide what your nominal trim lengths are and stick to them, sorting head stamps and lengths as necessary. It works a lot better to start with all new brass from the same company and forget the free pickups. You might save the brass that is shorter to trim to one length and then reserve for bullets with longer ogive or bullets you don't crimp by much more than removing flare...wadcutters maybe.
To avoid redoing the setup or tweaking for every length bracket of brass and between calibers, it's just more practical to have more than one set of dies, even including a separate turret where applicable. Then you have to decide what your nominal trim lengths are and stick to them, sorting head stamps and lengths as necessary. It works a lot better to start with all new brass from the same company and forget the free pickups. You might save the brass that is shorter to trim to one length and then reserve for bullets with longer ogive or bullets you don't crimp by much more than removing flare...wadcutters maybe.