Dies for Hornady LNL AP

mrdaputer

New member
I am seriously Thinking of getting this press. I have a few questions for ppl in the know. I have a lee manual and time to upgrade. I will just be doing pistol for now 9,40,45.My questions are. What is the best dies to use with the LNL. I was going to get the RCBS 20515 Carbide Die Set. Is that the best way to go? I also plan on getting a RCBS Lockout Die to be on the safe side. I assume that is a good idea? I have read where it doesn't work well with titegroup is that true?
I have all the extras to go with reloading like tumbler, scale, caliper etc. Is there something else I should look to get for the LNL when I am ordering it?

Thank you for any replies
 
I use all manufactures dies on my LnL AP. I prefer the Hornady as they made the press and but any brand will work. Some of the shorter Lee dies may need the lock ring used under the die. Order some extra die bushings and get loading. As you use the press you will learn what die works well and what could be better.

Get one of the light strips so you can see the powder prior to seating the bullet and you won't need to waste a station with a lock out/powder check die.
 
You can use anyones 7/8x14tpi dies in it but Lees don't work real well because they are almost to short.
I use RCBS on my LNL-AP only because I like RCBS dies but all the common dies will work fine in it.

I would buy more primer pick up tubes so you don't have to stop to refill the only one that came with the press, every hundred loads. Once I get going on mine I don't like to stop.

I would get spares of all the springs on the press and they are cheap, you will expecially need the case retaining spring that goes around the shell plate. They get gooned up after a while.

These springs are all guaranteed by Hornady and they will send you new ones for free if you have a week or so to wait on the shipping.

I put the handle of my press in a hydraulic Arber press and bent it at a strategic spot to make it move forward over my bench when the handle is up. It keeps me from having to tip my right shoulder down every stroke because it gets tiring after a few thousand rounds.

You could buy an ergonomic roller handle for it if you don't mind spending $60.00 on it.

http://inlinefabrication.com/collections/levers

I did mind so I bent mine.

You may want to put a counter on your press, It's convenient to know how many rounds you have loaded, I put a mechanical on mine but hornady sells a control panal with a counter, again, if you want to spend the money.

Some people put lights under the top of the frame of the press to illuminate the shell plate. I never felt the need as my loading room is well lit.

I had a powder cop die on mine for a short time but it caused me to have to look up every stroke to see it and was tiring to me. You can see the powder in the case easily with straight cased pistol rounds and looking at it is something you just have to train yourself to do every time, that is usually where I'm looking when running this machine.


Good luck
 

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I use Hornady, RCBS, and Redding dies in my LNL. My Lyman 30-06 die fits as well. I have a Dillon taper crimp die for .380 that fits, too. I would recommend any of the above brands.

The led light strip is pretty spectacular. Extra light on the shellplate helped me a lot.
 
Thank you all for your input and tips it is really helpful. :cool: The only reason I asked about the RCBS is I read somewhere that it does a better job of tapering and crimping than the Hornady.
 
If you want to save use of a station, you won't be using any expander die, using a caliber-specific PTE plug in the powder drop instead.

If you want to load lead, you might wind up with an M-die and no room for a dedicated crimp. I find RCBS the most satisfactory with the slightly larger diameter lead. I have one set of Lyman that works well too. I don't use my Lees on lead bullets, and no, they don't fit well on the Hornady's thickness. They are great on the turret though, and I use them for plated or jacketed diameters.

If you go for a bullet feed die, you forfeit the powder check, but you will be able to view the powder before bullet placement anyway.

I do not favor the Hornady dies at all, but sometimes find little choice for availability, when buying just a combo seat/crimp die, which does seem to work well, with some reservations about lead. I especially dislike their sizer with that useless extra length of pin sticking out the top. They work on the LnL AP but not easily on my Lee turret under a powder measure.

Whenever an available caliber, I use RCBS Cowboy for lead revolver bullets. I have all the sizes they offer and get show quality look ammo from them. They are a bump larger than other series of dies and are high quality tooling.

You do need to order the powder through expander (PTE) as a separate part, one for each cartridge you will be loading. That is true only if you must forgo use of any expander die in its own station.

I don't know if they include it now, but the powder measure works best for its optional expander role if you have the stop part.

I believe you also will need to order the pistol rotor and pistol metering insert. The standard rotor and metering insert do not do well at 5 grains and lower of most powders.
 
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I picked up a LNL-AP last fall and loaded up around 3600 empty 9mm i had sitting around. I hadn't loaded 9mm since 2012 and needed to get a bunch done, and did not want to do them on a single stage.

For 9mm I use RCBS dies for size and expand and a Hornady die with the micrometer to seat the bullet.

I don't use the powder through expanding die as the brass was sticking in it and then the whole press would jump when it finally popped free.

The hopper for the powder measure actually hopped off eventually, spilling about 1/2 a pound of powder.

I also run a RCBS bullet feed die in station 4, but it did take a while to get it and the expander adjusted to function reliably. The expander has to open the case mouth far enough to cause the feeder to drop a bullet on the case without dropping 2 bullets.

Haven't had time to set it up for any other caliber yet, as I have been busy loading 30-30 and 270, and those i prefer to load on a single stage press.

The stop for the powder through expander and the small pistol rotor both came with my press, it also came with 3 of the shell holder springs for around the bottom of the shell plate, and a few other spare parts.

Pick up one of the aluminum die wrenches, it can also be used to hold the shell plate to get the shell plate screw in or out. My shell plate screw kept coming loose, and needed to be tightened about every 400 - 500 rounds. With the tool, you can get it tighter without putting any stress on the ratchet assy.
 
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I don't use the powder through expanding die as the brass was sticking in it and then the whole press would jump when it finally popped free

Either the different brand (RCBS) sizer was too tight, or the brass was galling. I have polished my expander plug with fine emery cloth a few times. What helps from the outset is to drench the brass with Armor All Wash and Wax. When dry, the wax will remain to smooth things out. Treated tumbling media has a similar effect. Lastly, do not size new brass, because you will just cause galling on the expander. The size should be fine as-is for handgun.
 
Thank you all for your replies I plan to order the LNL very soon.

8Ball I have watched many videos on this press and a trick by 76Highboy to keep your shellplate tight is put a lock washer on top of the flat washer. That way you won't need to crank down on the screw.
 
Mrdaputer -I did try a lock washer for a while, but what seemed to fix the problem best was just going to a thicker stainless flat washer, and getting it a little tighter. I don't crank down on the screw, just get it fairly tight.
 
I pulled the trigger on Sunday and my press will be here tomorrow man that is fast. I paid $389.99 plus the 500 free bullets. Not sure if I can say where I got from. Thank you all again for your advice :D
 
My LNL AP came with both large and small powder drums, 3 shell plate springs, 2 brackets and some other spare parts.
I ordered replace springs for each spring on the press just to have incase one goes flying when I am changing over.
I use mainly RCBS dies since that is what I have been using on my single stage.. No need to buy special dies.
 
You will want to get a ten pack of the die bushings while you're at it. Pillow cases on sale also make great press covers.
 
Something else I bought for mine was the Hornady die wrench.
The lobe sticking out of the side fit in the shell plate to hold it still so you can tighten the shell plate without stressing the pawls on the bottom of the press.

I haven't had a plate come loose now in 20k rounds.
 
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