Die Cleaning

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What is the recommended die cleaning procedure. basically I have ben just rubbing the inside of my dies with a Q tip and rubbing alcohol to get any excess lube or tumbling dust out. Is that enough, or is their a better way of cleaning?
 
How often should one completely brake down and clean a die?

The bore cleaner and oil seems to be logical, but how to remove the all the oil.

With the break cleaner (non chlorinated ), wouldn't that be a little rough on the steel die?
 
With the break cleaner (non chlorinated ), wouldn't that be a little rough on the steel die?
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The break cleaner removes ALL of the oil and washes away the fine particles of tumbler dust/sand/junk, etc. It will leave the steel BONE DRY, needing a rust inhibitor coating, hence the oil.
 
I hit them with some hornady one shot and then blow it out with compressed air from my compressor, not the little air in a can things for keyboards and such
 
I use a sonic cleaner with dish soap for 9 min, dry, then spray Rem oil on die, wipe down again and store till next use.

Stay safe.
Jim
 
I've been removing any washers and putting the die in a bowl full of boiling water.

Not sure if this is the best method of cleaning, but it sure works.
 
Any of the above can work. Boiling in water heats the die so that when you withdraw it from the water it tends to dry rapidly and leave a microscopic blue oxide layer behind that tends to protect if from corrosion in the short term (like a day or two). It also tends to leave the boiling pot messy.

All the solvent methods clean well, but can leave the die vulnerable to corrosion if no corrosion inhibitors are in the solvent. I can recommend the BoreTech cleaning products from this standpoint. They contain corrossion inhibitors that allow you to leave them in barrel until they dry out without causing rust, despite the fact these products are water-base. I've also left Gunzilla (vegetable oil base) in barrels for up to six weeks in a humid environment that were very clean when I patched them out and for which a bore scope showed nothing but shiny white metal. It may be a better choice from the standpoint of dissolving hydrocarbons and waxes.
 
If really grungy a bore brush and whatever is on the bench...W-D 40, CLP , brake cleaner, bore solvent , Marvel Mystry Oil , ATF , etc... which solvent/cleaner you use is not critical. There is usually just a build up of bullet lube and any lead in there is not baked onto the surface, it comes right out.
Just a little grungy a cloth patch on a slotted tip, I have even just pulled a rag strip , dampened with solvent, thru it. kind of like a makeshift Bore-snake.
A pencil and paper towel will work in a pinch.
Gary
 
A bore mop and mineral spirits cleans them just fine. I will brush the threads and then give them a light coat with break-free with a lint free rag and tooth brush. Break-Free has been proven to be one of the best for rust protection. WD-40 will dry into varnish.
 
I clean it like a field stripped part: wipe, rem oil, wipe again, inside and out.
If I store them I soak in oil, then wipe before use.
 
I spray them with brake cleaner......the non chlorinated kind.
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I still have some original chlorinated solvent, works a treat.

Any other solvent leaves and oil film (pet based) not sure on Hoppes.

Upshot was my 30-06 die got real snarky, I tried Hoppe cleaning, still snarky (would not re-size, stuck cases.

Got the good old Tri Chlor out, cleaned it and cases worked fine (they had Lymans case lube on them so at least most of it got re-coated.
 
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