Did you add a polymer carry gun for less sweat corrosion?

I

Ignition Override

New member
Having just bought a used CZ PO1 and used Sig P229 (.40), both are in exc. condition. The prev. carry gun: .380 Russian Makarov, which only had the rear slide exposed to t-shirts in the IWB Remora.

The new holster I'm sticking with, a very narrow type which exposes both the Sig's muzzle and rear of frame/slide.

Not wanting to risk extra corrosion while often outside April-September (I carry when running also), the idea to possibly add a nice HK P30, VP9 or USP is tempting, due to the polymer frames, and the superb reports.
Sure, any of these guns can have a thin oil wipe down every day, but Memphis sweat can easily penetrate frames/'receivers'.
 
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I carry a single stack poly gun because its lighter. I carried a Charter Arms .38 for years down here in South Florida and corrosion was never a concern, I went poly simply for weight savings.
 
Simple solution is to buy a different holster. Something with full slide coverage that keeps most the sweat off your gun.
 
Why not just wipe the pistol down at the end of the day? The aluminum frame isn’t going to rust and unless you have very unusual sweat you shouldn’t corrode aluminum. Both slides have a finish that should at least protect them from moisture unless you were to never wipe them down and leave them wet for days at a time.


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Location: Miami Florida.

On hikes, bikes, and runs I carry appendix with the same setup, just minus the X300U.

I used to carry my classic SIG P-Series all the time. Literally, all the time.

It would get rust on the decocking lever, slide stop, and even the sights if I didn't rub them down with a silicone rage when I got back home or to my car.

So I went with Glock and M&P. That eliminated the frame's possibility of seeing any type of corrosion whatsoever. But....... that didn't stop the sights from getting it and even the inside of the barrel.

My opinion on the matter is that it's going to rust if you expose it to the elements. It'll drizzle sometimes and I'm next to the salt spray of the ocean when I run or bike in Key Biscayne, so I can't avoid it. Just stay on top of it and make sure you don't let it get too bad to the point of pitting.

Rub off the excess sweat and moisture with a silicone rag and dry it off if you need to afterward.

If you absolutely must carry your P229/P226 (which I did for almost 6 or 7 years), then I'd recommend getting the decocker and slide stop/release coated in NP3+ at Robar guns. That's what I did to my P226 and P229 and they were pretty bomb proof. And yes, I went to those lengths because there is no other gun in this world that I shooter better than a P226 or P229. Even after my falling out with the company. I found myself picking up a P220 and MK25. *sigh*
 
Polymer for less weight. A hybrid IWB holster with a leather backing, and wearing a "beater" under my shirt helps protect from sweat. Also regular wipe downs of the metal. However, in the hottest weather I usually am wearing a thin T-shirt, and pocket carry an LCP in a DeSantis Nemesis. Never a problem with rust.
 
^ just as an add on, if you didn't want the two-tone color of the silver NP3+ and the black SIG, Robar also offers a Poly-T2 finish in a couple of different colors. This also supposedly stands up to thousands of hours of salt water. I had a P2000 done over with NP3+ and I really liked it, but it can be a bit slicker than some other finishes.
 
A story about weight. I have carried a 1911 most of my adult life. some time ago I decided to get a poly .45. I liked the fit of a XD so I bought it. It fits my hand better than a 1911. Especially after i put on a laser grip. The weight problem wasn't solved. Empty the XD was lighter. But both loaded with 230gr GDHP. 7+1 vs, 13+1 the XD was heavier.

PS: I usually open carry. Where I live nobody cares except some that infiltrate from NYS.
 
There's your problem right there! STOP EXERCISING. Geeze, how hard is this? LOL

When I worked as a rental cop, I didn't have a stainless steel pistol and some nights it rained and I got socked to the first layer! That meant after a 12 hour shift, instead of showering and going to bed, I was cleaning my gun, then showering and going to bed. Man I wanted a stainless pistol on that job!

If sweat was a big problem for me I'd carry something very resistant to it: stainless/polymer/aluminum/some great coating.
 
benefit

I went to Glocks for other reasons, but was pleasantly surprised when I discovered how durable the Austrian finished guns were.
 
First Glock purchased in '93 because I believed it was the best platform for the 10mm. From there, it has been nothing but positive experiences with respect to reliability, accuracy, ease of cleaning/maintenance, and overall general sense you don't have to treat it with "kid-gloves." They are the only firearms I own in which I don't feel I have to wipe down if I "touch" them. Thank you Gaston Glock!
 
A good wax works better than any oil or grease for rust protection.
You can buy an spray on like Birchwood Casey Barricade , use an automotive paste pure carnauba , with no cleaners, like Mother's . Johnson's Paste Wax works well or the Ren Wax sold for gun protections by museum's, Brownell's sells it.
Any of the above is much better than oil/grease.
Gary
 
I sweat buckets when working hard in hot weather and have rusted stainless handguns. I would wipe down my Kimber K6s revolver every evening but only took the grips off once a week. After one particularly hot week, I found rust under the grips starting to form.

When it is hot and I'm going to be working hard, I'll take a firearm like a 342 Airlight or a polymer and coated handgun such as a Glock.
 
Simple solution is to buy a different holster. Something with full slide coverage that keeps most the sweat off your gun.
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Great suggestion!

Also consider applying anti-perspirant to your body around the area where your pistol makes contact....it's not just for arm-pits you know.
 
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