Did I screw up?

R

rferguson61

Inactive
So I'm new to guns. Just bought my first a few days ago, a used savage 110. After reading and watching videos I took it upon my self to give it a well needed cleaning. I ran patches through until they danger out clean. Then I took the stock off (which looked and sound simple) and cleaned the magazine, trigger assembly etc. When I put the stock back on I did what I read in a forum that its important that the stock is tight to the barrel. I tightened down the front bolt (the one that's under under front hand on the stock) and if I tightened it all the way snug I couldn't work the bolt. It has to be just to where the bolt gets resistance in order for the bolt to move. Is that normal?
 
Thanks JP. That defiantly helped! I just pulled the bolt out and can feel the end of the screw so if I tightened it all the way down then it would be holding the bolt in place. Going to up to the fun shop tomorrow and ask then for a different screw or if bedding would help. I f so, how hard is doing it yourself? I'm pretty mechanically inclined and have some woodworking experience.
 
Or, just put a washer under the screw.

While it is important that the rifle be tight in the stock, it's also important that the front action screw not bind through into the bolt. I've had this happen on two Savages and it seems that with wood stocks that aren't pillar bedded, it's easy to bind the bolt with the front action screw. My simple fix is just to shorten that screw by a couple of threads. Voila! I can still tighten the action, but the screw isn't long enough to get to the bolt.
 
I have a Savage 110 30-06. Haven't had the need to take the stock off yet - this was informative!

Does anyone make a nice steel-blued trigger guard to replace the plastic one on the 110 LA Savages?
 
Not trying to pick on Savage or start a Savage vs everything else debate, but that really sounds like a design flaw albeit not much of one just a shorter screw, but why wouldn't they include one.
 
Skanns - don't let this worry you about doing it...its really easy and should probably be done. I found sand and dandelions around the trigger group and magazine. Midway has a stainless trigger guard...I can't find a blued one. I need knew too. Buy the stainless and a blueing kit?

I have to agree. Don't get me wrong, I love my savage and would buy another one...this just seems like a small oversight.
 
You can't "blue" stainless steel. There is a process that will darken it, but the chemical is extremely corrosive and dangerous to handle.
 
Thanks JP. That defiantly helped! I just pulled the bolt out and can feel the end of the screw so if I tightened it all the way down then it would be holding the bolt in place. Going to up to the fun shop tomorrow and ask then for a different screw or if bedding would help. I f so, how hard is doing it yourself? I'm pretty mechanically inclined and have some woodworking experience.
Click to expand...

Or grind a little off the end of the screw.....
 
Cutting a screw makes it weaker? I don't know if I understand the mechanism behind that. Even granting that it's 100% true I trust that the screw will still be able to handle the stresses imposed on it by a factor of 100 or more. It's the recoil lug that takes the brunt of the recoil on a Savage, not the action screws.
 
Cutting or grinding a couple of threads off a screw that's slightly long will not weaken it unless you overheat it. By taking your time and just removing a small amount of material at a time and letting it cool off for a few seconds, you will be fine. One thing I would recommend is to thread a nut or die onto the screw first so that it will clean up the threads where the cut or grinding was done. In fact, if you thread two nuts on and lock them together at the length you want the screw to end up at, they will act as both a heat sink and a stop so you don't remove too much material.
 
Fasteners in general, all bolts, screws, nails are tempered to give them strength. When you cut them down the tempering goes away and they loose strength. Just like if you guy a sheet of tempered glass, or chip tempered dishes they loose the structural integrity making them brittle. I used to work in a steel fab shop and suggested cutting a bolt that was to long and got a lesson lol. But like I said being new to guns I didn't know about the recoil lug.
 
There is a huge difference between tempered glass dishes and tempered metal. Tempered glass is works by introducing a carefully design stress gradient into the glass, and yes, that's susceptible to surface damage. Tempered steel is usually a bulk property, so cutting a screw - with the cautions against overheating - does not make it weaker.
 
Look man there's not enough time in the day to worry about small stuff.;)
You can file that action screw if needed but when it get's hot, douse in motor oil to keep it cool.
And yes it is a peave of mine having to shorten action screws, but it is a necessary evil.
Just work it down slowly. And it would also be to your advantage to hunt down the torque specifications to properly torque this action!:)

And probably the best thing I could relate is to go back to the range and be damn sure it's still ZEROED!!!!!;)
 
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