Did I just come up with a wall hanger?

D

Doc Hoy

New member
Folks,

Shot my 1851 Navy brass frame Sheriff's Model yesterday. Experienced a chain fire, I think due to poor cap fit.

Now the arbor is loose. To get it tight I have to turn it about 10 degrees, which of course, prevents the wedge from going into the arbor

How does one fix this and still maintain a shootable pistol?

Did I turn it into a wall hanger?
 
From your description I believe the recoil shield is damaged, and the only repair is a new frame.

However, the gun should still be shootable; if the cylinder locks up tight in battery (hammer at full cock) there's no reason it can't be shot. The wedge and bolt may be enough to hold it in battery even with the base of the arbor a bit loose.

Unfortunately the situation will only get gradually worse over time, so at some point the cylinder will be loose in battery; when that happens, retire the gun.
 
Not surprised

Mykeal,

Thanks for the quick response.

I understand everything you say.

The pistol does still lock up well. I am confident in shooting it the way it is (after reading your post.) The arbor doesn't wiggle.

In point of fact, it is the only .36 I own. It is a mighty pretty pistol. It wouldn't hurt me to shoot it until it gets too loose, then just hang it up. I would never sell it the way it is. I could scavenge parts from it, but I actually like the idea of just looking at it.
 
I have a Colt m1849 pocket steel framed replica that came loose during shooting without any chainfires or whatever. I used thread glue on the arbor to get it back in place. Screwed it in, put the barrel on and slammed in the wedge so everything is in the right position. Works fine today.

Another thing that can be done is to screw in the arbor and 'lock' it in place by using a steel punch or driver of some kind, by making a slight nick in the hammer channel where is comes through?

/ Daniel.
 
I agree and I agree - Two responses.

To dmicky,

I bought the pistol used at a gun show knowing their is a big difference in strength between brass and steel. I certainly would have preferred a steel frame but in this case, could not pass up the price.

Were I able to look two weeks into the future at that time, I probably would still have done the deal.

That does not mean I disagree with your advice.

To dlon21,

I like both of your ideas as well. I have the pistol pulled apart and when I get a moment to work on it I consider all of the advice. I am encouraged by both you and by Mykeal because you are both saying there is a good bit more life in this pistol.

With a little work and some light loads, I think it'll be alright for about as long as I want it to shoot.
 
Last edited:
Were I able to look two weeks into the future at that time, I probably would still have done the deal.
Click to expand...
No, you wouldn't. If you were able to look two weeks into the future you'd have bought a lottery ticket, shorted Citibank and bought all the guns in the world.:D

I may be wrong but I don't believe the damage is to the arbor, but rather the frame itself. Cementing or staking the arbor won't correct that. Nonetheless, it's worth trying, and in any case the gun is still shootable as long as it will lock up.
 
I may be wrong but I don't believe the damage is to the arbor, but rather the frame itself. Cementing or staking the arbor won't correct that. Nonetheless, it's worth trying, and in any case the gun is still shootable as long as it will lock up.
Click to expand...

What he said.
 
I dunno Mykeal

Mykeal,

You are correct. I would've done all that but I might still have bought the pistol too. :)

On a more serious note...I did pay close attention to the great info in your previous post. Bottm line is...that pistol is getting shot again this Sunday (if the weather holds.)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top