dicropan IM??

b00

New member
Has anyone tried this stuff. Does it work as easy and as well as they claim or am I wasting my money. I would like to blue 3 older shotguns (win 1897, ithica 37, win 12) and a remington model12 22. Is there a better choice for blueing? I really do not want to send these out at 150 each because they are just not worth that much.

Also are any of the guns that I listed difficult to blue. I have heard that some guns are a lot more difficult than others.
 
Your shotguns are not exactly junk guns. I would think long and hard before doing a home refinish on any of them. Even professional refinishing might not be a good idea. Maybe you could post pictures of them and we could give better advise. Home cold-bluing, under the best circumstances usually looks bad, and almost certainly will devalue your guns.
 
I have used Dicropan. It works very well, but it is not exactly easy to use it right. You need degreasing solutions, a way to heat the water, and a place to lay the metal while you are applying it. It does not work well on very hard metal like the model 1897 and the model 37. If it were me. I would go ahead and pay to have those guns blued by someone who really knows what they are doing.
 
Thank You for the information. I am not really afraid of ruining these guns nor do I plan on selling them so devalue is of no concern. They have no blue left on them. The ithica is completely brown and has been that way since I bought it. I just would like these to look like they were supposed to. If the dicropan does is not the ticket then I will hot blue them. I am currently researching the subject and am not really afraid of tinkering. From what I have read so far 90% of the job is in the prep work anyway. I also have all of the needed equipment so there really is no expense there besides the salts and cleaners-$200.

Is there a good book that would also help me on this. I have my grandfathers gunsmithing books and have read the info in them on reblueing, but they are from the 20's and late 40's. I should think some changes have taken place? I also have spoken with my grandfather who used to do a lot of rebluing in the 40'-60's but his memory is fading. He used to make his own salts with syanide and such, but I am sure commercial stuff would be safer than that.

Anyway, this is not a project that I plan on rushing into, and I hope you do not mind if I ask a few questions along the way.
 
I have not done home bluing, just passing along what I have READ.

There is some DIY information on homemade bluing salts - ammonium nitrate or sodium nitrate from the fertilizer dealer, sodium hydroxide (lye) from the hardware.
http://www.geocities.com/kemays/formula.htm
http://www.blindhogg.com/homemadesalts.html

Note that these guys are talking about small lots for pistols and parts, you are going to have to scale up for rifle and shotgun barrelled actions.

Hot sodium hydroxide solution is a powerful caustic, dangerous to skin and eyes. But it is a common ingredient in the old formulae, and I would bet it is in the commercial mixes, so it can be handled.

Do not do a hot blue of any type on your shotguns if they have soldered ribs, the caustic and oxidixing environment will dissolve the solder right out from under them.
 
IMHO, hot tank bluing is NOT a home project. It requires three bluing tanks (a degreaser, a bluing tank, and a rinse tank, all with electric or gas heating. You also need an emergency shower area with a heavy water flow in case hot salts splash on you. Plus heavy rubber boots, a rubber apron, face/eye protection, and so forth. It is a damned dangerous business and not something you do in the kitchen unless you have a very unusual kitchen.

Again, IMHO, none of the "cold" blues are much good. No matter what the sellers say, cold blues only give a temporary color that comes off easily. Rust blue is OK, but requires extensive preparation and also needs a heated tank large enough to boil the gun during applications, and a rinse tank that does not need to be heated.

In short, unless you want to set up in business, have bluing done by a professional who is set up to do it.

Note: Some people are promoting "home made" bluing salts for "easy use." The salts are the same as those bought from gun shop suppliers, so the above applies to them as well, no matter what claims are made about easy DIY. Plus, the ingredients, if available, will usually cost MORE than the cost of commercial bluing salts and may not do as good a job if the chemicals are not as strong or are not mixed properly.

Jim
 
Again, thank you for the information. i have a nice piece of clean sheetmetal that I will bend up and weld into tanks. i should beable to make several 40" tanks out of it without two much trouble. I have several hotplates and am investagating building a gas pipe burner.

I have plenty of safety equipment for dealing with chemical from my workplace like aprons, gloves, facemask and rubber boots.

Again I am just trying to collect info at the minute.

What is good to use in the degreasing tank. I see brownels sells a 909 substance that is specific for the job, but expensive. I have in the past used TSP for parkerizing grey and green and had good luck. Does this work for blueing too. I see brownels does not recommend it but?
 
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