Detail stripping a CZ75B

A

AndABeer

New member
My CZ75B is at the smith right now with what I think is a broken firing pin. I was told two weeks tops. As of next week it will have been two months. I took it to a smith because I was moving and had no time to mess with it myself. I now do have time to mess with it and am fed up with the run around I am getting from the smith. However, I have never detail stripped a CZ75B. I have detail stripped High Powers, 1911s, and my 220. I cannot believe it would be too difficult to do so to a CZ especially if I am just talking about the slide but I have been wrong before. Twice I think. Has anyone detail stripped a CZ75B and were there any pitfalls?
 
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Mr Andabeer: I see you have a CZ like me (but mine's a CZ85). I don't have any manuals on CZ because it's never needed abit of work in the two years I've been shooting it (every week). Your experience with a gunsmith is pretty much like some of mine: that's why I like guns that don't need much work (like CZ, STI, Para-Ord).

I also own a Browning HP that I'm an expert on fixing because it's needed a lot of work. I was TOLD that the CZ75 firing pin design is similar to late-model HP's. If so, it will have an internal firing pin safety of some kind. That means you have to depress the FP safety to free the FP, press the head of the FP in, and then slide the plate down that holds in the FP and spring (it will shoot out). The ones with a FP safety are tricky to get in (it takes three hands) because you have to hold the FP safety out of the way, press the pin and spring in, and slide the plate back on at the same time.

Hope this helps.
 
AAB,
Look at your pistol and the exploded parts diagram in your manual. You state that it is a B so it shouldn't have a firing pin stop - part number 56 in your manual. It will/should have a pair of roll pins on the side of the slide and it will have the firing pin safety plunger on the bottom of the slide that bountyh mentioned.

I looked at the Armorers Manual for the 75 and unfortunately it does not cover the B models with the firing pin roll pins. I just tried to drive out the pins without any pressure applied to the end of the firing pin that protrudes at the rear of the slide and they didn't want to come out very easily. I didn't force it considering the time of day it is - don't want to wake everyone up at 5:30am ;) I will try it later on today with light pressure applied at the rear of the slide. I need to do it anyway.
 
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I drove the pins out from right to left no problem and the firing pin popped right out. I drove them out together. I didn't need to apply any pressure to the firing pin at all. Just needed to use my big plastic hammer instead of the tiny brass one. No, I didn't deform the pin :D
 
Slickpuppy,
I need to do the same to my 75B and can you clarify for me:
1) isn't there just one roll pin (57a or 57b of the parts diagram) ?
2) I would expect that even after the firing pin roll pin is removed, the firing pin block/safety (part # 58) would still be exerting some pressure against the firing pin (at a 90 degrees angle) and one would have to compress the firing pin block spring (part# 59) to free the firing pin. No?

Some day I hope to be able to disassemble the lower frame and do a better cleaning job and so if you have also tried it please share your experience. Thanks!:)
 
75B firing pin

You can call Mike, the head gunsmith at CZ-USA. He'll walk you through the process. You can use a 1/8" punch to remove the roll pin. Brownells sells a specific 1/8" roll pin punch, which helps to prevent deformation of the rollpin as you tap it out. My understanding is that you punch the roll pin out right-to-left or left-to-right (direction doesn't matter), past center, depress the firing pin block, and the firing pin comes out. The block and a block spring will also be released. Reassembly is in reverse order. I'm about to go through this same process myself, once my roll pin punch arrives from Brownells.
 
One of my 75Bs has 2 roll pins, one inside the other - maybe it is a fluke or the Czechs were being coy, I don't know. The rest of my CZs have only one. I had only been fooling around with the lowers until today.

I also drove out the pin on a 75B SA this afternoon and I did not have to exert pressure on the firing pin to drive it out. Next I simply depressed the firing pin stop/plunger and the firing pin popped right out. Sorry for skipping this step.

I DID have to exert pressure on the firing pin to get the roll pin back in. It is a bit of a juggle to do. First, get your roll pin started so that it is just about ready to enter the firing pin channel, next reinsert the firing pin stop/plunger and while depressing it reinsert the firing pin so that it will be in far enough to be in the rearward cutout for the firing pin stop/plunger. Once it is in that far you can release the stop/plunger. Then, while keeping the firing pin depressed you drive your roll pin in.

As for the lower they aren't too bad at all. The real pain is

1)Getting the trigger pin reinserted. For that you will need to make a dummy pin. I used a cheapy 1.5mm metric allen wrench and cut off a piece of it with a cutoff wheel on my Dremel. The pin must be capable of withstanding the tension of the trigger spring so a little piece of QTip won't do it.

2)The second area that isn't as painful as the first is getting the hammer spring plug back in. You will scar your pistol easily if you aren't careful. After doing it a few times it is more intuitive. To avoid pistol damage use a brass punch.

I HIGHLY recommend purchasing a set of BRASS punches and a brass hammer. I bought mine from Dillon Precision because I was placing an order with them anyway. They were less expensive than Brownells and they were the same thing. Be careful with them because they are very soft and VERY easy to deform. Trust me on this one ;)

One other thing. Get the armorers manual from CZ-USA. They are about $14 or so. Although they only cover the Pre B models, they will help you tremendously in working with your lower because the pistols are basically the same whether Pre B or B or the CZ97.
 
Milcaztra...how does a roll pin punch differ from the regular punch?
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Slickpuppy...re your point#1...why do you need a dummy pin? Is the the transition back to the real one tricky, eg one of those 3 hand job? BTW I already have brass punches and to me the re-assembly of the sear/disconnector would look to be the most difficult because of the small parts/limited room that they are to be fitted in.
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Thanks for your responses! Safe shooting.:)
 
CSKS,
The trigger assembly is the trickiest because of the pressure of the trigger spring. It will take the dummy pin to get the trigger spring and trigger bar assembly together without the spring popping out.

Once you have that together you then line it up inside the frame and insert a small punch through one side to replace the dummy pin with the punch. You have to be careful and go slow or the spring will fly during the transition. A little finger pressure helps on the spring while doing that.

Once the punch is all the way through to the other side you will be ready to start the trigger pin through. You will need to go slow here too, during the transition of the roll pin entering the coil of the spring to replace your pin punch.

The ejector housing reassembly is really the easiest for me. The sear spring is not that powerful and the firing pin block lever safety spring is the only one that may give you problems. A pair of tweezers through the hole on that side helps to keep it positioned as you reinsert the pin from the other side. The pin only needs finger pressure to reinsert.

A roll pin punch has a small bump on the end of the punch that fits in the hole of the roll pin which makes it easier to keep it in place while driving the pin.
 
Slickpuppy,
Thanks for the clarification...if I'm understanding you correctly the dummy pin is acting like a cross-bar that you drop in from above and its own pressure against the inner walls of the frame keeps it in place. Only the punch (followed by the trigger pin) actually goes through the holes of the frame.
 
CSKS,
A crossbar yes, but not dropped in from above. It goes into the holes of the trigger assembly that would normally hold the trigger pin, taking the place of the regular trigger pin, and is just long enough to stay contained within the trigger assembly itself, thus keeping the trigger spring in place. THEN, you put the assembly into the frame. The dummy pin can ONLY be as long as the trigger assembly is wide, else the assembly could not be dropped into the frame.

Once the assembly is lined up with the holes in the frame you insert a small punch through the frame holes and trigger assembly, replacing the dummy pin with the punch.

Then you drive in your trigger pin, replacing the punch.
 
The protuberance at the end of the roll pin punch is designed to prevent/lessen damage to the roll pin. Roll pin punches aren't absolutely necessary, but they're nice to have because they're made specifically for the task. To detail strip a 75B, you would need a 1/8" roll pin punch for the roll pin that retains the firing pin and a 1/16" roll pin for the front sight (if you decide to change the front sight with tritium). If you're interested, you should check the Brownells site, and reference "roll pin punch."

Removing the solid pin that holds the trigger assembly is much trickier, because you have to swage/flare the ends of the pin after replacement. Otherwise, the pin will walk out when you shoot.

:)
 
milcaztra,
My trigger pins are definitely swaged on the left side of the pistol but not really much on the right side. So I removed right to left and reinserted left to right.

Have you had the pins walk out on you? Perhaps in live fire they might, but since I did the first removal I have dry fired that gun a lot with no indication of a pin walking.

It wouldn't hurt to do so lightly on the right side after replacement.
 
Appreciate all the info guys. I finally got my pistol back from the smith, he had never looked at it (have I mentioned how much I don't like 90% of the smiths I've dealt with?), and had the firing pin out in about half a minute. It was indeed broken. Called CZ, they would have sent me one for free provided I send them the broken one first. I said screw it and just paid for a new one ($10). When it gets here, how does the firing pin go back in? I stupidly did not pay attention when it came out as to how the machined grooves were positioned. I assume that the grooves face the bottom (frame side) of the slide?
 
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