Decreased pull, increased creap
- Thread starter Malpaso
- Start date
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Malpaso:
I just did my first action job on a 1911. The trigger pull decreased about 1# from what I can guess by feel, but now there is more creap to the trigger pull. Before, the pull was harder, but broke sharper. Any ideas?[/quote]
Gunsmith.
I just did my first action job on a 1911. The trigger pull decreased about 1# from what I can guess by feel, but now there is more creap to the trigger pull. Before, the pull was harder, but broke sharper. Any ideas?[/quote]
Gunsmith.
Art Eatman
Staff in Memoriam
Malpaso: Buy one of the books on "how to" for the 1911. It will help immensely.
Zot: Yes. See above.
When in doubt, hug a gunsmith.
Regards, Art
Zot: Yes.
See above.When in doubt, hug a gunsmith.
Regards, Art
yes art i have talked to smiths,its just this
thing I want to try, make a reliable 1911,I'm
still ordering parts and books, tools, I know
some light filing will fit the slide, where
to file I'll find out, or end up letting a
pro do it, self satisfaction lost and the most expensive 1911 I ever bought.
thing I want to try, make a reliable 1911,I'm
still ordering parts and books, tools, I know
some light filing will fit the slide, where
to file I'll find out, or end up letting a
pro do it, self satisfaction lost and the most expensive 1911 I ever bought.
George Stringer
Staff Alumnus
Malpaso, the reason is that the engagement surfaces were not polished. But, if you are not experienced in that I don't recommend this for "do it yourself" work.
Zot, there is a lot more to fitting a slide to a frame. I do quite a bit of this and rarely does a file touch either part. There are times when a smooth file is used to get rid of high spots but that's not very often. George
Zot, there is a lot more to fitting a slide to a frame. I do quite a bit of this and rarely does a file touch either part. There are times when a smooth file is used to get rid of high spots but that's not very often. George
Art Eatman
Staff in Memoriam
Malpaso: The angles of the bearing surfaces of the sear and hammer must be polished correctly and equally, all the way across. A way to learn is to go through some gunsmith's or hobbyist's Wild Animal Box and find an old hammer and sear. (A lot of gun show tables have parts, but they often want money.
) Try to do it like the book sez; install, and try the feel. Take it apart and do it again, if needed. At some point it will be all worn out and you can do it all again. You'll eventually get it right.
We hope.
A way to get a reduction in the trigger pull is to cut a coil or two off the hammer spring. Don't do this until you have a replacement spring. You can wind up with a too-light hammer-fall, and the gun won't go Boom!
zot: Does the fit of the slide to the frame seem too tight? Are you having problems with the pistol not cycling completely? If not, I'm not sure you'll get any increase in reliability by loosening up the fit--unless you're planning on "Reliable When Full Of Crud". And a few thousand rounds through it will loosen it up, anyway.
Of course, you can always take some valve-grinding compound and work it back and forth until it's nice and loosey-goosey. Then, when you're not happy with 6" groups at 20 feet, you can send it to George and he can tighten it up for you.
Sorry George; couldn't resist.
Regards, Art
We hope.
A way to get a reduction in the trigger pull is to cut a coil or two off the hammer spring. Don't do this until you have a replacement spring. You can wind up with a too-light hammer-fall, and the gun won't go Boom!
zot: Does the fit of the slide to the frame seem too tight? Are you having problems with the pistol not cycling completely? If not, I'm not sure you'll get any increase in reliability by loosening up the fit--unless you're planning on "Reliable When Full Of Crud". And a few thousand rounds through it will loosen it up, anyway.
Of course, you can always take some valve-grinding compound and work it back and forth until it's nice and loosey-goosey. Then, when you're not happy with 6" groups at 20 feet, you can send it to George and he can tighten it up for you.
Sorry George; couldn't resist.
Regards, Art
george, bought the stainless Essex frame and
a Essex Government slide, not the enhanced
one,the slide will go on frame just even with where slide would be in lockup, yeah
Art I was going to use a marker and file off
areas even on slide so it would fit,whats the secret guys?I've spent at least $400 so
far on parts, makes buying a Springfield
1911 a good deal,but I will have a reliable
1911 before I'm thru
a Essex Government slide, not the enhanced
one,the slide will go on frame just even with where slide would be in lockup, yeah
Art I was going to use a marker and file off
areas even on slide so it would fit,whats the secret guys?I've spent at least $400 so
far on parts, makes buying a Springfield
1911 a good deal,but I will have a reliable
1911 before I'm thru
George Stringer
Staff Alumnus
Zot, get the valve grinding compound and a good pair of leather work gloves, a rawhide mallet and a sturdy bench vise are nice to have as well. You'll also need a mag well filler. I make one by filling an old magazine with molten lead. Burying in upright in dirt will keep the lead from coming out of the holes. You will have a little clean up to do even then. Insert the well filler and hold the frame in a padded vise. Coat the rails of the frame with the compound and start lapping the slide on. If it gets to the point where you can't lap by hand tap it on and off with the mallet. Don't try to go more than 1/4" at a time. As soon as you can move the slide freely, stop. Clean all the compound off so as not to continue cutting. If you want to get anymore fitted than that you'll have to invest in a slide fitting set. A well mated slide to frame fit accounts for about 5% of the pistol's accuracy. Once I got it moving freely I'd concentrate more on the slide/bushing/barrel fit. George