Deagle 44 mag.
- Thread starter GTNMUDY
- Start date
I would suggest looking for a good gunsmith in your area. Polishing sears can quickly wind you up with an unsafe or non functional firearm.
depending on how old or well used the gun is, I would consider a spring tune up kit like this one https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1004303088
but I would start with a good cleaning and light oiling and see how it acts before a spring swap or permanently modifying the gun. could just be dried up or crusty inside.
depending on how old or well used the gun is, I would consider a spring tune up kit like this one https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1004303088
but I would start with a good cleaning and light oiling and see how it acts before a spring swap or permanently modifying the gun. could just be dried up or crusty inside.
I am aware of this kit but it doe's nothing for the trigger assembly.
I am well aware of a bad polishing job on the sears.
Was looking for maybe a set of sears from a after market company. So far I have not been able find anything.
I have cleaned and oiled the trigger assembly. Did help but still would like it to be cleaner and crisp.
Maybe I'm looking for a uni-corn.
I am well aware of a bad polishing job on the sears.
Was looking for maybe a set of sears from a after market company. So far I have not been able find anything.
I have cleaned and oiled the trigger assembly. Did help but still would like it to be cleaner and crisp.
Maybe I'm looking for a uni-corn.
you might get by with a light polish. I'm talking some metal polish on a q-tip. but I would avoid stones and sandpaper like the plague. supposedly polishing should not change sear angles and mess anything up. at least thats what m-carbo's videos say (i have several of their spring kits). but after having messed things up with a ultra fine stone and having to buy a new sear for a 1911 I wont be taking a stone to anything again. you might also try some grease rather than oil. the old adage used to be if it slides grease it, if it rotates oil it. grease tends to stay in place better too.
To work on a Deagle, you need a computer programmer, as they only exist in video games.
A DIY trigger job, even under Utube guidance is rarely a good idea.
One of the points of paying all that money to a good gunsmith is to both get quality work and have things "right" when you get the gun back. IF a smith screws up a part working on your gun, the cost of repair comes out of his pocket. (and if you run into a smith that doesn't work that way, do NOT give him any business!!)
If you screw it up ALL costs come out of your pocket.
Find a real pistolsmith, who will agree to do the work. This is not a job for Bubba the AR builder who has never done anything else.
A DIY trigger job, even under Utube guidance is rarely a good idea.
One of the points of paying all that money to a good gunsmith is to both get quality work and have things "right" when you get the gun back. IF a smith screws up a part working on your gun, the cost of repair comes out of his pocket. (and if you run into a smith that doesn't work that way, do NOT give him any business!!)
If you screw it up ALL costs come out of your pocket.
Find a real pistolsmith, who will agree to do the work. This is not a job for Bubba the AR builder who has never done anything else.
JT-AR-MG42
New member
Another option is to find one of the late Austin Behlert's drop in hammers.
Here is a pic showing three of them with one installed in an early .44.
Hard to show with my camera skills, but the engagement surfaces are very different from a stock DE hammer.
They are worth keeping an eye out for.
I second 44 AMP's advice to really take your time.
The instructions with these hammers make mention of the new (at the time) MKVII trigger sear adjustment screw and the importance of NOT having the hammer follow the slide to half cock when releasing the slide.
Stay safe, JT
Here is a pic showing three of them with one installed in an early .44.
Hard to show with my camera skills, but the engagement surfaces are very different from a stock DE hammer.
They are worth keeping an eye out for.
I second 44 AMP's advice to really take your time.
The instructions with these hammers make mention of the new (at the time) MKVII trigger sear adjustment screw and the importance of NOT having the hammer follow the slide to half cock when releasing the slide.
Stay safe, JT
JT-AR-MG42
New member
Yes it did. This pistol now has a creep free (clean break) at just under 5 lbs.
Measured using an RCBS trigger pull gauge.
Have rounded up quite a few over the years with a pretty equal mix of I's and VII's. The 50's and .440 require the big MKXIX slide though.
Here is another MK I frame with a Behlert hammer in this pic of my 10" barreled guns.
The extra barrel length makes the 10" DE a two handed gun,
but they are much nicer to shoot for both lessened recoil and greatly reduced muzzle blast.
From the bottom - .357, .41 magnum, .44 magnum, and .50AE with a .440 barrel to the left.
The wood stocks are comfortable and the Millett sights give you an outstanding sight picture quickly.
Thank you for the shopping tip and reasonable price. Having spare springs for most guns is a good idea. For the D.E. they are a must have.
JT