Dan Wesson custom work?

dwesson445

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I'm wondering if anyone can recommend a 'smith to do a trigger job on a :) Dan Wesson 445 I own. I'd be curious to hear from anyone with experience with the SuperMag size frames re: barrel interchangability, durability, accuracy, etc. I'm looking for a good carry holster for IDPA and ICORE matches, too.

Thanks in advance for your help!

BB
 
Nice gun!!

I think you best bet would be to contact the factory. They do really great work.

Actually a DW is quite easy to do your own work on. If you want to attempt it and want some pointers, just holler...

Good Luck...

Joe
 
DA.

By the way, does anyone else have a problem with their trigger fingers being scraped by the top of the trigger guard under recoil? That edge is really sharp by comparison to Smiths. I was thinking of asking the factory to send me a replacement in the white and then countouring the edge a bit more and having it blued.
 
Self smithing the DW

Hi Joe,

I'll give you a holler regarding do it yourself work on the DW's. I
presently own three new Dan Wesson's: .22, 7360. and the 460.
I have no problem with sending these guns out to a competent
gunsmith and was going to do so until I saw your comments.

So, what procedures would you begin with for the novice with
no prior experience, willing to buy the necessary tools (within
reason) and prepared to replace parts that may be damaged.

Thanks for your time and advice.

Mike

P.S. I have the manual listing parts terminology. Disassembly
is listed on the DW website although I thought it could be more
detailed.
 
MikeS,

The disassembly steps on the www.dan-wesson.com site are complete, but they do lack the detail for a 1st timer. Here is my version:

1) Unload gun
2) Using the special spanner wrench, remove the barrel nut. Then slide off the shroud and unscrew the barrel.
3) Remove the grip screw with an Allen wrench and slide the grip off.
4) Remove the two Allen sideplate screws. (Note: they are different lenghts)
5) Vibrate off the sideplate by tapping the grip stud with a nylon hammer or wood screwdriver handle.
6) Just infront of the trigger is a small wire like, horseshoe shaped clip. Lift this up and out with a magnet or tweezers. Now open the cylinder and slide the cylinder/yoke assembly to the left, and out of the frame.

Okay, now stop and study where all the parts belong. Take a picture if needed. Pay close attention to the cylinder hand and transfer bar and especially the little spring that connects them.

7) Remove the cylinder hand by lifting it up off it's post and moving it to the left. Note how the tail end of the transfer bar spring fits into a small grove on the back side of the hand.
8) Use tweezers to unhook the forward end of the mousetrap style trigger return spring from the ledge on the trigger.
9) Lift out the trigger and then the transfer bar and spring.
10) Push the cylinder stop (bolt) down to clear the frame and then lift it out to the left.
11) Grab the forward end of the trigger return spring again, and lift it over the hammer stud. This should completely remove it's tension.
12) Hold the hammer all the way to the back and insert the long sideplate screw into the hole in the bottom of the grip stud. Screw it in. It's going into the bottom end of the mainspring strut and captures it in place.
13) Lift the hammer and trigger return spring out.
14) I put the treaded end of a cleaning rod over the top end of the mainspring strut, and push down to hold the tension of the mainspring. While the holding the tension, unscrew the sideplate screw from the botttom. Slowly let up on the rod until the mainspring has relaxed and remove the mainspring strut and spring.

Now that you have a bench covered with parts, here's what I do to smooth the action and lighten the trigger pull.

1) Install a set of Wolff reduced power springs, especially the trigger return spring. www.gunsprings.com
2) Polish the inside of the sideplate. Don't worry about removing any deep tool marks, just make it smooth.
3) Polish the sides of the hammer below the frame line (the part that doesn't show).
4) Polish the sides of the trigger above the frame line.
5) Polish the flat bottom of the cylinder bolt and the top of the trigger where they rub together.
6) Polish the inside flat of the frame, especially around the hammer and trigger bosses.

Note: All polishing is done with a couple small hard Arkansas stones and a few strips of crocus cloth. Don't change any angles or remove any decernable amout of metal. Just shine up the areas where parts rub together.

Put it back together and test fire. 1st time through, you may want to skip the polishing and see if the springs alone are enough for what you want.

The above method is how I've slicked up the actions on my small frame Dan Wessons. I don't own a solid large frame, so I can't help much there.

Good Luck...

Joe
 
Call Daw Wesson and get the different hammer strut. Bob sent me one a while back. Only a 5min change is required.

The 445 is at its best with rifle primer. Because of this a harder hit is needed and the factory jacked the force a little by compressing the spring more. The same springs are used but the different strut lowers the double action pull to normal levels. Try the regular struct first without a spring change.

-CAL
 
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