DA Unfluted cylinder

B

BoogieMan

New member
Why would one want a unfluted vs fluted cylinder?
Can you buy OTS unfluted cylinders for common revolvers?
What would cost for say a 586/686 unfluted cylinder be?
I would love to have a blued or cerakote revolver with a unfluted SS cylinder. If I can put one together resonable I may look at blued guns with finish in poor shape to save a couple bucks.
 
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Thank you MrBorland. I never think of Midway. I looked at Brownells and Numerich. Any other places out there. Someone must specialize in cylinders.
So I could get a 686 and a few other models then replace the cylinder and give it a custom look. I dont like to be at the range with someone next to me that shoots the exact same thing
 
ya know, it just occurred to me - if the cylinder you're looking to replace is also the new style, you can likely swap the new ejector star for the old one, then just drop the new cylinder in. I'm thinking (but don't know for sure) that timing wouldn't need to be adjusted since the hand is still pushing the old ejector star notches.

BTW, if you do replace the cylinder on a new style (6-shot), lemme know, as I'm looking to replace one. ;)
 
In replacing a cylinder, the timing is not usually a problem, unless the ratchet is of a different type. The critical areas are the fit of the ratchet and the fitting of the cylinder to the crane (where headspace is adjusted) and the adjustment of the barrel-cylinder gap.

As to why one would want an unfluted cylinder, I can only surmise that to some folks it has a "cool" look. I can't think of any other advantage.

Jim
 
Instead of buying a gun, then a cylinder and maybe having to pay for a smith to fit it, you should know that S&W has made special runs over the years of models for distributors mostly, with unfluted cylinders. They currently offer the 686+ with an unfluted cylinder for TALO in 3, 5 and 7 inch barrel lengths. I got a 5 incher for the reasons you gave....to have something different than the guy shooting next to me. I also own a PC 629 Magnum Hunter distributed by Lew Horton that has an unfluted cylinder. I have also seen some unfluted models in the used case over the years.

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Flutes

The advantage...if there is one...is that the extra mass/momentum would aid the cylinder's carry-up should the timing become a little slow. Not a real concern for fast DA work. The fluted cylinder will carry up just fine unless cycled in near slow motion or the timing is seriously out of whack.

The disadvantage is that the extra mass/momentum is brought to a sudden halt by the cylinder stop under shearing forces between the stop and the frame window...and between the stop and the cylinder stop notches.

The other disadvantage is the heavier cylinder's inertia must be overcome in order to get it spinning. Not an issue during normal operation, but it becomes a factor that places added stress and wear on the hand and ratchet during fast DA work.

Bottom line: It looks cool, but serves no real purpose.
 
re:

funny i always thought that an unfluted cylinder would allow for hotter loads and for more recoil dampening.
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*shrug*

Maybe a little...but if you really yank that trigger hard and fast on a regular basis, be prepared to pay the price. There's also the matter of the more massive cylinder placing extra stress and strain on the yoke and crane under recoil.

No such thing as a free lunch.
 
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I cant imagine that it make any noticeable difference one way or the other. IMO it just looks cool. I also like a fluted cylinder. I try to mix things up with my guns. I have been looking for blued 357 (another thread) but now I am thinking of a unfluted cylinder SS model. Then maybe I will polish it out and have the frame only black chromed.
 
funny i always thought that an unfluted cylinder would allow for hotter loads and for more recoil dampening.
Click to expand...

Have you ever looked at a revolver cylinder from the front or back and noticed where the thinnest part is?

Hint: It's NOT where it's fluted.

As far as recoil dampening, any additional weight will do that. However, I can't tell any difference between my S&W M29's with the fluted or unfluted cylinder.
 
The initial purpose of fluting was to reduce weight without compromising strength. It does that, which means that a gun with an unfluted cylinder weights more than a similar gun with a fluted cylinder. That's it. If you want extra weight, the unfluted cylinder is one way to get it.

Jim
 
One wonders how much weight reduction there is from fluting the small cylinder found on a 686. According to the S&W website, the wieght of the 3'' 686+ with fluted cylinders is exactly the same as the TALO 3'' 686+ with the unfluted cylinder. 36.8 oz.
 
I have two revolvers with un flutted cyl, both ruger, one 44 mag super blackhawk and the other a 454 super redhawk. I shoot heavy hittin rounds in them so mabe they are unflutted for the extra strength, all my other redhawks and blackhawks have fluttes. Charlie
 
Flutes

I shoot heavy hittin rounds in them so mabe they are unflutted for the extra strength,
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Fluted or not, it wouldn't have any effect on the strength of the cylinder. As Jim noted, fluting was a means of reducing weight without sacrificing strength.

While the added weight/mass of the cylinder would tend to dampen recoil...to deny it would be to deny the basic Laws of Physics...the question of just how much is debatable as there just isn't that much weight reduction. I'd venture that if you can detect a difference in recoil between two identical revolvers firing the same ammunition in a blind test...one with flutes in the cylinder and one without...you have the hands of a neurosurgeon.
 
How much weight difference is there with or without the cylinder flutes, I have no idea but when I purchased this gun I really liked the balance better than standard 29’s.
I agree with 1911 there is no discernible difference in recoil between it and other short 29’s I own but the balance is better for me making it a more comfortable and easier magnum to shoot. This guns balance is very close to the same as a 4 inch 24 that I own.
 
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