DA trigger pull and light striking

B

braindead0

New member
Just finished checking DA/SA trigger pull weights on my wife's Tracker and my GP-100 using the 'high-tech' water jugs method ;-). I was very careful so It should be pretty close.

The odd thing is, the Tracker doesn't quite strike hard enough to ignite anything reliably except federal primers (which have been 100% no problem).

DA trigger pull was 9.5#'s, does that seem light enough to cause ignition issue on hard primers? My GP came in at 10# and it'll fire off anything.
 
Comparing Apples and Oranges

Different makes and even within makes different models will require different trigger pull weights for reliable detonation of the primer. Some models will have more internal friction due to design than others. Secondly, leverage of the trigger will vary by make and model requiring different strenght mainsprings and trigger pull. Third, the hammer arc is different across brands and models (the longer the arc all other things being equal the lighter the mainspring as it has more time to do its job and build hammer momentum).

As an instance small frame revolvers usually do not have the leverage of their medium frame brothers and require a heavier trigger pull.

Tom
 
That's kinda what I was thinking. For a while I considered installing heavier springs, but my wife loves the trigger on her tracker.. and it's no big deal to use fed primers.. just sometimes out here (for some odd reason) I can't find regular small pistol..only magnum..sheesh.
 
For a Ruger you need to get a new main spring or a
Wolf Gun Springs kit.
For a S&W
If you are reducing the tention on the "main leaf spring" you are dong the same thing I did. The gun fired 2 out of 6 times double action. I changed the TRIGGER RETURN SPRING and tightened the leaf spring, in the grip and it worked fine.
 
Brain Dead: when you measure the DA pull weight, there are primarily two springs involved that determine it: the hammer (main) spring which provides the energy to strike the cartridge and the rebound slide spring which kicks the trigger back. It is theoretically possible to have a 10# DA pull with light strikes. In a SW gun, it would mean you have the stock RB spring and the strain screw against the mainspring has loosened and backed it self out. I'm not sure if the Ruger has a leaf spring (like SW) or a coil spring, but it sounds like a new main spring is in order.
 
The ruger is fine, never had a problem with it. The tracker is a bit on the light side, but it has never failed to fire off federal primers.

I was just curious...

I may get a 'generic' set of springs, and play around with the tracker. I suspect a lighter trigger return and slightly heavier main spring outta keep the trigger good with a little more strike.
 
The main problem with light strikes in the small revolvers is the low mass (weight) of the hammer. Since it takes x foot pounds to fire the primer, the low mass of the hammer has to be made up for with a higher rate spring. No free lunch. The choice is simple, live with a heavier spring and trigger pull, or risk misfires. You will probably need about a 12 pound pull for reliability in all situations.

Removing hammer spurs and the like only makes a bad situation worse.

Jim
 
I'm not sure this trick will work on Smith & Wessons and Rugers, but it helps with Colt revolvers: shorten the firing pin spring. A little less resistance there means the hammer needs a little less force—as long as there's enough tension, of course, to withdraw the firing pin after the shot.
 
brain,
Ya might want to call Taurus and ask them about it. I think Standing Wolf nailed it about the firing pin spring. Taurus might cover it under warranty.
 
One of my Taurus 65s also suffers from light striking. I have been wondering what to do about it. In your opinions, would it be better to send it to Taurus for adjustment, or try to do something myself?

Of course, my 586 and GP-100 never have this problem. :)
 
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