DA stacking on a Model 25

C

Casimer

New member
I'd recently acquired a NIB S&W Model 25 from the late 70's. My other S&W's are older and well shot-in, so I'm used to a smooth continuous DA and crisp SA trigger.

The SA of this revolver is fine, but the DA is a little rough and feels as though it's stacking. Being that I've never owned a new S&W before, nor one made past the late 60's, I'm not sure of whether this ( the stacking ) will improve as it's shot-in - or is this something that might warrant a little TLC from a gunsmith?
 
From the late '70's and particularly through the '80's and into the early '90's, liability concerns, cost cutting bean counters, and poor quality control all combined to cause a lot of gun makers to make particularly heavy and terrible triggers, and rather rough actions. Fortunately, enough shooters were dissatisfied with this and tired of paying for custom gunsmithing to create a market for guns that were better out of the box. That's how Kimber got into the market and how a number of the other smaller name brands, like Wilson, got started. Eventually, the bigger makers figured out they would have to find ways to compete and backed off the most extreme liability concerns, and CNC machining started improving quality. So, it generally is better now.
 
Some of the Model 25s were produced during the the time Lear Siegler controlled S&W from 1983 to 1987. The quality control took a hit. In some cases, the cylinders had wide throats. The forcing cones were pretty rough on some--some weren't cut square. I had a revolver from that era where the rear of the barrel contacted the cylinder face on one side and had a large gap on the other side. The trigger certainly "stacked" on that one!
 
Fortunately this one seems to be well built otherwise - very tight lock-up, no end-shake, etc.. The cylinder face isn't perfectly true, but it's always within its tolerance. But there are some minor aesthetic flaws such as marred screw heads and a chip in the grip near the butt. The fellow who'd sold me the revolver had acknowledged all of this, and he's an honest person, so I'm pretty confident that this was its factory condition.

Does anyone have experience w/ Wolff's 'power rib' in an N-Frame? They promote that these give a more even DA pull. Are they a multi-leaf spring?
 
Have you removed the sideplate, cleaned out the internals and put some lubrication on the pivot points and mating surfaces? That is often all the action job a revolver needs.

Spring kits sometimes makes a trigger pull less but at the cost of reliability. If there is excessive headspace or a cylinder alignment problem, that will impact the action. Putting a spring kit in when those sorts of problems exist might make matters worse. The springs from the factory are usually fine. If there is a problem with a trigger pull, it is too often a sign of an underlying problem having nothing to do with the springs.

I have some Wolff power rib mainsprings I've taken out of revolvers in my parts box. Use the type 1 if you want to try one. It is the strongest one.

Wolff makes some good products. I use the recoil springs in my semi-autos. I use the 16-pound rebound springs in revolvers.
 
Have you removed the sideplate, cleaned out the internals and put some lubrication on the pivot points and mating surfaces? That is often all the action job a revolver needs.
Click to expand...

Not yet. I have to get the proper screwdriver bit. The bit that I use for my K-Frames doesn't fit quite right - I suspect that I'd roll the slot edges if I tried to use it. So I might have to splurge and get that magna-tip set for S&W revolvers.

But I have been dry firing a lot, and that's helped noticeably.

thanks for the tips.

Any ideas for an improvised range rod to check cylinder alignment?
 
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