CZ 75s use case hardened sear/hammer?

M

Matrixwolf

Inactive
Hello all

Does anyone know if the CZ 75s have case hardened sears and hammers or if they are hardened all the way through. I have slightly leaned the angles out on my CZ 75 hammer/sear but I have a bad feeling that the peices are only case hardened. If they are maybee I can take the newly ground peices to be heat treated or re-case hardened.


Thanks for any help:D
 
Try calling Mike at CZ-USA. The number is 800-955-4486.

You know that you can also install the CZ75 Champion's sear, hammer, and trigger in your regular CZ75. They can be purchased from CZ (their is also an armorer's manual available from them for about $7.00).
 
Alright, great info slickpuppy, Thank you very much:D :D :D I will give Cz a call tomorrow and see what they say.

Does the champion sear/hammer make a big difference in the trigger's feel?

Thanks
 
Matrix,
I picked up my CZ75 Champion in 9mm Friday and put 500 rounds through it this weekend. The trigger on this gun is the most incredibly beautiful thing in the world!!!!! :) Not to mention the accuracy...50 targets shot with 10 shot groups per target off bags with cheapy WalMart ammo and I had to work to get them larger than an inch! (This was at 50 feet)

The Champion parts should do wonders for your gun.
 
The Champion is a SA only model. If one were to install the Champion trigger, hammer, and sear, this will turn a regular 75B into a SA only model?
How hard is it to switch these parts and while we are on this subject, how good is the CZ75 armorers manual? Does it laid out the procedures to remove the firing pin for cleaning?
 
Someone posted on the CZForum (Walt?) that just the sear could be used from the Champion and it smooths up the DA trigger without disabling it. however you're right if you use the whole trigger group it will convert it to single action only.

I feel if you're going to go as far as changing the sear, if the sear and hammer are case hardened (I don't see why they wouldn't be), why not slick up the original parts?

Talking to Mike yesterday he said the Armorers manual covers the older (Non-B) models. However the procedures outlined in dis-assembling are still valid for the B models also and that only the firing pin safety that is located in the slide is not addressed.

Rick
 
I installed the Champion sear in my 85 Combat, and it did improve it. The trigger had been smoothed prior to that, and is was even crisper after the swap-out.

(I suspect the trigger and hammer are case hardened, as I started having problems with mine about 3-4 thousand rounds after the initial trigger job. While it would function properly in SA mode, it would short cycle in DA. With the new sear it stills short-cycles in DA mode when dry firing, but it functions properly when loaded with ammo. I'm going to call Mike in the next day or two to see what he recommends. It may be that the hammer was case hardened, and the hardening has worn through.)
 
If the sear is made of the same stuff as the disconnector/interrupter, then it is some VERY HARD stuff. I replaced the interrupter on my Baby Eagle with a CZ one [Baby's part was on boat from Israel], but had to increase the size of the pin hole in it. I spent 4 hours and 4 seperate drill bits [all of them lost their edge and each one broke at least once during the process] to just increase the size of the hole by about 1/16th of an inch [I think it was actually 1/32, but I can't remember exactly]. I finally went to get more bits and bought a dremel bit that was designed to hone out metal: Once I could get it in, I was able to smooth out the sides enough to get the pin through. I've never tried to work on 'case-hardened' metal, but I have no doubts about the strength of this part!
 
I talked with Mike, the gunsmith at CZ-USA earlier today about the problem I was having with my CZ-85 Combat. (Described above.)

He's sending a new disconnector (free of charge) for a problem that clearly isn't CZ's fault. This is a unique problem he's not encountered before, and the disconnector seems to be the most likely culprit.

I asked him about how the parts were hardened. He said they're made for tool-quality steel, which is generally more than sufficient (and a common practice in the industry.) Wear may be the problem with mine, and replacement of the disconnector MAY (no promises) solve the problem.
 
Am I correct in guessing that the Champion hammer, sear, trigger have a different geometry than the standard 75B equivalents? It can't be just fitting and polishing, correct?
 
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