I have a cz 75 b in 40 S&W And recently heard about changing springs as an upgrade. Can anyone tell me is this a good upgrade? Can it reduce felt recoil or muzzle jump? Or does it just make it easier to rack the slide? Looking online I see that they come in weight ratings. I have no idea what my current spring is rated and do I need to go up or down and how much? I also see that they come in kits with a hammer spring and a mag spring do these help? I am a big believer in, it ain't broke dont fix it so I only want to do this if there is a noticeable improvement can anyone help thanks
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cz 75 upgrade
- Thread starter rc13
- Start date
Walt Sherrill
New member
Duplicated in error. See below.
Last edited:
Walt Sherrill
New member
Spring changes will affect the WAY the recoil is felt, but won't do much else.
The reason that recoil might feel different with new, heavier springs, is that the heavier springs spread the recoil impulse over a slightly longer period by slowing the slide a tiny bit.
Wolff Springs offers a Recoil Calibration Pack that includes 16, 18, 20, 22 recoil springs. (It says it's for 9mm CZs, but it works with .40 CZs, too.) That will let you try out the different weights. Here's a link: http://www.gunsprings.com/Semi-Auto%20Pistols/CZ/75%20Series/cID1/mID16/dID91
There's nothing worse than taking a gun that's running right (i.e., not broken) and fixing it... (I was a moderators on the CZ Forum for a number of years, and that was a frequent problem -- especially with folks new to semi-autos.)
Going to a lighter hammer springs (if you don't go TOO LIGHT) may actually improve the trigger pull a bit, but will also slightly increase felt recoil -- as the hammer retards recoil as the slide goes back. Going to a slightly lighter hammer spring makes sense for most shooters. The same link above will show you your options. But...
Experiment if you must, but don't do anything to your CZ just because you've read that it'll be better. (That includes my suggestion about a lighter hammer spring!) What some call an "upgrade" may actually be something else.
.
- If the next spring is TOO strong but still allows the gun to cycle, you run the risk of damaging the slide stop -- as the extra strength spring will store some extra force and that will be pushed back against the slide stop as the slide closes. If the spring is too heavy, the gun won't cycle properly for the ammo you use. The slide will also be much more difficult to rack.
- If the spring is too light, you'll feel some of it in your hand and arm, and the gun might not cycle properly. Spent cases might be sent into an adjoining county.
The reason that recoil might feel different with new, heavier springs, is that the heavier springs spread the recoil impulse over a slightly longer period by slowing the slide a tiny bit.
Wolff Springs offers a Recoil Calibration Pack that includes 16, 18, 20, 22 recoil springs. (It says it's for 9mm CZs, but it works with .40 CZs, too.) That will let you try out the different weights. Here's a link: http://www.gunsprings.com/Semi-Auto%20Pistols/CZ/75%20Series/cID1/mID16/dID91
There's nothing worse than taking a gun that's running right (i.e., not broken) and fixing it... (I was a moderators on the CZ Forum for a number of years, and that was a frequent problem -- especially with folks new to semi-autos.)
Going to a lighter hammer springs (if you don't go TOO LIGHT) may actually improve the trigger pull a bit, but will also slightly increase felt recoil -- as the hammer retards recoil as the slide goes back. Going to a slightly lighter hammer spring makes sense for most shooters. The same link above will show you your options. But...
Experiment if you must, but don't do anything to your CZ just because you've read that it'll be better. (That includes my suggestion about a lighter hammer spring!) What some call an "upgrade" may actually be something else.
.
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i wrote a fairly lengthy reply last night which has been lost likely due to the thread moving - must have been moved before i submitted response. Walt covered some good things, i would also add the following:
Tuning the recoil spring by changing its weight is most useful if you hand load. Always shoot a particular light pet load but the light charge won't work the action? Light recoil spring. Always load hot or always shoot plus p ammo? maybe a heavier recoil spring would reduce battering your frame and felt recoil. However the gun was designed with particular parameters and shooting too light a load or too hot a load may be either unsafe or accuracy would suffer as the bullet speed needs to match the barrel twist within limits.
If the gun is relatively new to you or you are relatively new to shooting, i would recommend keep the gun in stock condition for now. You could buy springs, or parts from Cajun Gunworks to have them on hand but a newer gun will keep getting smoother, the trigger will settle in the more you shoot it and it just keeps getting better. Noticeably better, no exaggeration. To help it along I would buy Azoom snap caps and dry fire while working on fundamentals - stance, grip, sight picture, front sight focus, surprise trigger break, follow through. If memory serves correctly the 75b can break a roll pin if extensively dry fired without a snap cap. My first modification is usually sights that i can see better as I am near sighted with astigmatism. Wider rear notch and fiber optic front help me focus on the front sight.
You should know that the CZ75b is well known for being very accurate as is. It already has all the mechanical accuracy someone could need. (wanting for fun is another thing) but most modifications people do to it have to do with the interface with the shooter. Preferences that for the most part can be overcome with familiarity or training.
For example my friend's 75b was the first hand gun I shot and I was convinced the sights were off as I was shooting 4 inches low left, with a 4 inch spread at a distance of 7 yards. Now on a good day I can shoot 1 inch groups or less out of a compact at the same distance: M&P 40c with practice ammo. I sometimes wonder how I would do if I had another 75b in my hand and with premium defense rounds. I would also look into an "NRA first steps" course - I took it for fun after already having been shooting several years and it confirmed a few things. If you're already familiar with hand guns a flexible instructor should be able to move things along and show you a few new things regardless of where you are.
Finally, the stock trigger pulls on 75b are pretty good already - especially compared to revolvers. My friend shoots mostly revolvers but he is a great shot so for the most part its practice with an understanding of the fundamentals. I could talk all day about how the fundamentals seem so simple but make such a huge difference so I'll leave it at that.
Tuning the recoil spring by changing its weight is most useful if you hand load. Always shoot a particular light pet load but the light charge won't work the action? Light recoil spring. Always load hot or always shoot plus p ammo? maybe a heavier recoil spring would reduce battering your frame and felt recoil. However the gun was designed with particular parameters and shooting too light a load or too hot a load may be either unsafe or accuracy would suffer as the bullet speed needs to match the barrel twist within limits.
If the gun is relatively new to you or you are relatively new to shooting, i would recommend keep the gun in stock condition for now. You could buy springs, or parts from Cajun Gunworks to have them on hand but a newer gun will keep getting smoother, the trigger will settle in the more you shoot it and it just keeps getting better. Noticeably better, no exaggeration. To help it along I would buy Azoom snap caps and dry fire while working on fundamentals - stance, grip, sight picture, front sight focus, surprise trigger break, follow through. If memory serves correctly the 75b can break a roll pin if extensively dry fired without a snap cap. My first modification is usually sights that i can see better as I am near sighted with astigmatism. Wider rear notch and fiber optic front help me focus on the front sight.
You should know that the CZ75b is well known for being very accurate as is. It already has all the mechanical accuracy someone could need. (wanting for fun is another thing) but most modifications people do to it have to do with the interface with the shooter. Preferences that for the most part can be overcome with familiarity or training.
For example my friend's 75b was the first hand gun I shot and I was convinced the sights were off as I was shooting 4 inches low left, with a 4 inch spread at a distance of 7 yards. Now on a good day I can shoot 1 inch groups or less out of a compact at the same distance: M&P 40c with practice ammo. I sometimes wonder how I would do if I had another 75b in my hand and with premium defense rounds. I would also look into an "NRA first steps" course - I took it for fun after already having been shooting several years and it confirmed a few things. If you're already familiar with hand guns a flexible instructor should be able to move things along and show you a few new things regardless of where you are.
Finally, the stock trigger pulls on 75b are pretty good already - especially compared to revolvers. My friend shoots mostly revolvers but he is a great shot so for the most part its practice with an understanding of the fundamentals. I could talk all day about how the fundamentals seem so simple but make such a huge difference so I'll leave it at that.
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g.willikers
New member
The best and easiest way to reduce recoil and muzzle flip is with an improvement in technique.
An effective stance and grip will do more than messing with the gun.
An effective stance and grip will do more than messing with the gun.