You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
cz 75 upgrade
- Thread starter rc13
- Start date
spring calibration
First, i would not be surprised if mods move this thread - I hope they have a chance to. Second - this is long as I'm trying to dump things I've learned over the years onto you to save you some time.
http://www.gunsprings.com/Semi-Auto%20Pistols/CZ/75%20Series/cID1/mID16/dID91
On this page at Wolff springs, your factory recoil spring weight is listed as 12 pounds. Wolff offers spring calibration packs for many semi autos and revolvers. A lighter hammer spring might be considered an "upgrade" as it would reduce the effort of the trigger pull - double action on your cz75b being the more noticeable change. However too light and you end up with light strikes so the difference in spring weights would be limited to an extent to preserve the ability to set off the round. However the feel of your trigger pull weight is subjective and the better you know your trigger already the more likely you can tell the difference. Everything comes at a price.
The other spring involved is the recoil spring weight. This would be less of an "upgrade" and more accurately can be described as tuning your gun to a specific ammo - really pertinent of you are doing your own hand loads / making your own ammo. If someone has made a pet light load that their gun shoots very accurately and frequently shoots light loads they could put in a light recoil spring. The lighter powder charge or light projectile would have less of a problem cycling the action and the gun could still be reliable. However if you run standard or hot loads through a gun with very light recoil spring in place, the frame would take more of a beating over time. On the opposite end if you install too heavy of a recoil spring the slide may not reciprocate back with enough force or even far enough to eject the old brass or to chamber the new round. However if you ALWAYS load or shoot high pressure "plus p" loads maybe an extra heavy recoil spring is for you.
This is just my opinion but if this gun is relatively new to you or you are relatively new to hand guns, keep it stock for now. Get snap caps (I usually use A-zoom) and dry fire safely at home focusing on your fundamentals - stance, consistent grip, front sight focus, surprise break, follow through. If it's a newer gun, know that with every trigger pull the metal parts are mating to a nice smoothe surface on the parts that count. The gun will keep getting better the more you practice - you may even notice a difference after just a few boxes of ammo. The cz-75b was the first handgun I ever shot and I was LOW LEFT by 4-5 inches, 5-6 inch group,spread at 5-7 yards. These days I can sometimes shoot a 1 inch or less group at 7 yards with my little m&p 40c and I sometimes wonder how I would do if I had a cz75b in my hand again to compare.
To put things in perspective, your gun already has all the mechanical accuracy it needs to be scary accurate - which the 75b has a reputation for being. The lighter hammer spring would lighten trigger pull - however DA pulls on semi autos in my experience are lighter than and almost smoothe as a decent revolver trigger. Ammo, formal training, then more visible sights would be higher on my priority list since I'm nearsighted with astigmatism. I went to a short "first steps" NRA course after I had already been shooting several years and it helped integrate a few skills, confirmed a few things - great affordable fun and only a few hours long.
If later on down the road I were to truly feel like my equipment was limiting me then I would look at Cajun gun works for hammer, sear, or trigger part replacement - however, that would be AFTER I shot the snot out of the gun. Who knows you might end up shooting as well as you humanly could with stock parts. And until i really get to know my gun intimately I wouldn't be able to fully appreciate the changes I've made. This usually takes at least a year since I don't shoot that often. However if it's an issue involving physical discomfort or poor fit to my hand rather than training I'm a bit faster to act on it. For example, I have a large "n frame" revolver in .357 and I eagerly jumped to buy "pachmayr decelerator" grips for the extra cushioning however the grip was so big for my hand it was a struggle to hold the gun securely let alone shoot well. Quickly switched grips. Turns out I can handle 357 recoil just fine and mostly shoot 38 special out of it so I didn't even need to get those grips to begin with.
First, i would not be surprised if mods move this thread - I hope they have a chance to. Second - this is long as I'm trying to dump things I've learned over the years onto you to save you some time.
http://www.gunsprings.com/Semi-Auto%20Pistols/CZ/75%20Series/cID1/mID16/dID91
On this page at Wolff springs, your factory recoil spring weight is listed as 12 pounds. Wolff offers spring calibration packs for many semi autos and revolvers. A lighter hammer spring might be considered an "upgrade" as it would reduce the effort of the trigger pull - double action on your cz75b being the more noticeable change. However too light and you end up with light strikes so the difference in spring weights would be limited to an extent to preserve the ability to set off the round. However the feel of your trigger pull weight is subjective and the better you know your trigger already the more likely you can tell the difference. Everything comes at a price.
The other spring involved is the recoil spring weight. This would be less of an "upgrade" and more accurately can be described as tuning your gun to a specific ammo - really pertinent of you are doing your own hand loads / making your own ammo. If someone has made a pet light load that their gun shoots very accurately and frequently shoots light loads they could put in a light recoil spring. The lighter powder charge or light projectile would have less of a problem cycling the action and the gun could still be reliable. However if you run standard or hot loads through a gun with very light recoil spring in place, the frame would take more of a beating over time. On the opposite end if you install too heavy of a recoil spring the slide may not reciprocate back with enough force or even far enough to eject the old brass or to chamber the new round. However if you ALWAYS load or shoot high pressure "plus p" loads maybe an extra heavy recoil spring is for you.
This is just my opinion but if this gun is relatively new to you or you are relatively new to hand guns, keep it stock for now. Get snap caps (I usually use A-zoom) and dry fire safely at home focusing on your fundamentals - stance, consistent grip, front sight focus, surprise break, follow through. If it's a newer gun, know that with every trigger pull the metal parts are mating to a nice smoothe surface on the parts that count. The gun will keep getting better the more you practice - you may even notice a difference after just a few boxes of ammo. The cz-75b was the first handgun I ever shot and I was LOW LEFT by 4-5 inches, 5-6 inch group,spread at 5-7 yards. These days I can sometimes shoot a 1 inch or less group at 7 yards with my little m&p 40c and I sometimes wonder how I would do if I had a cz75b in my hand again to compare.
To put things in perspective, your gun already has all the mechanical accuracy it needs to be scary accurate - which the 75b has a reputation for being. The lighter hammer spring would lighten trigger pull - however DA pulls on semi autos in my experience are lighter than and almost smoothe as a decent revolver trigger. Ammo, formal training, then more visible sights would be higher on my priority list since I'm nearsighted with astigmatism. I went to a short "first steps" NRA course after I had already been shooting several years and it helped integrate a few skills, confirmed a few things - great affordable fun and only a few hours long.
If later on down the road I were to truly feel like my equipment was limiting me then I would look at Cajun gun works for hammer, sear, or trigger part replacement - however, that would be AFTER I shot the snot out of the gun. Who knows you might end up shooting as well as you humanly could with stock parts. And until i really get to know my gun intimately I wouldn't be able to fully appreciate the changes I've made. This usually takes at least a year since I don't shoot that often. However if it's an issue involving physical discomfort or poor fit to my hand rather than training I'm a bit faster to act on it. For example, I have a large "n frame" revolver in .357 and I eagerly jumped to buy "pachmayr decelerator" grips for the extra cushioning however the grip was so big for my hand it was a struggle to hold the gun securely let alone shoot well. Quickly switched grips. Turns out I can handle 357 recoil just fine and mostly shoot 38 special out of it so I didn't even need to get those grips to begin with.