I've slugged the cylinder throats on all of my revolvers and size my home-cast bullets to that dia. or 0.001" larger. When first setting up, I size a half dozen, load them, then see if they'll chamber properly in all cylinders. Brass necks, especially in pistol calibers, may differ in thickness, even in the same lot; and that's the reason for checking a small sample as you don't want to run 500 through the press only to find that they're all too big.
In .357 and .38 Special, I size all of mine to 0.3595" as that's what my Lyman 0.359" sizer works out to. All makes of cases (Federal, R-P, Winchester & Starline) will accept a bullet that dia. and still chamber in all of my guns, with throats that vary from 0.357" to 0.359". For comparison, I'm loading for a pair of Smith Model 19's, two Model 60's, and a couple of Ruger Blackhawks.
I'm gradually switching over to all Starline brass for my guns for its uniform quality. BTW, I've found that nickle plated brass not only neck cracks earlier and is thicker at the case mouth; enough to be felt when seating a bullet. This is important since it indicates that it's re-sizing my wheel weight alloy home casts to a smaller dia....and that's not conducive to accuracy. I use the nickle ones for snake loads or at most low vel. defensive carry practice loads from the 5-7 yd line. They just won't preform to my satisfaction from the greater distances.
Too, I don't worry about the gun's groove dia. as lead alloy bullets I'm casting will form to that and with a good gas seal while the lubing process takes care of leading, but and this is a big BUT...that's with a barrel groove dia. that's equal to or slightly smaller than the throat dia. (say within 2 thousandth's) If you're dealing with a gun with cylinder throat dia's smaller than the groove dia., you'll need to open up the throats to get good accuracy.
That 0.359+" dia. gives me excellent accuracy with both plain base and gas checked bullets. BTW, if you're seating gas checks, at least on my Lyman 450 Lubrisizer, the Hornady crimp on GC's will not size completely down to the dia. of the sizing die. The copper check has enough spring back that they stay 1/2 a thousandth bigger. To get that last bit of sizing and have the check the same dia. as the lead alloy bullet driving bands, I have to anneal the check with a torch...a PITA so I don't bother. With a 0.359+" sizing operation as described above, that last 1/2 thousandth still allows all rounds to chamber in all of my guns.
I do own and enjoy shooting a Marlin 1894 CS in .357 Magnum that likes larger bullets, but only by 0.001"...for it I size them 0.360" and get good results with zero leading up to 1600 fps and accuracy that's down around an inch and quarter at 100 yds with a low power scope mounted (and weighing plus sorting the bullets!).
If you're buying commercial cast bullets, I'd order up a 100 ct box at 0.360" and try them in your guns. Larger is generally better and they need to fit the throat. I don't go for the method that says you need to be able to finger push them through the throats...I like 'em a bit bigger and the accuracy improvements justify that in my guns. Too, and this is an important caveat, I don't load any lead alloy bullets for top end velocity...I'm after good target rounds that have recoil similar to my carry loads, and use jacketed factory bullets for hunting etc. If you're loading lead alloy for top end velocity then the smaller dia. bullets are a safer choice...but I bet you'll get more leading and less accuracy that way. Using those diameters, and keeping my plain base handgun bullets to 1100 fps or less, I get no leading and great accuracy.
Lastly, if you're limited to commercial cast bullets only, and they all use that hard lube, try swirl lubing them with Lee Liquid Alox thinned 30% with mineral spirits. It'll help with leading issues if they're a bit small in dia. That hard commercial lube is useful for really high velocity rounds, but you need a softer lube for most handgun bullets.
HTH's Rod & YMMV