The cylinder on my S&W M60 J-frame has always had a minor sticking problem whenever I try to pop it out. On returning from the range today, after cleaning the bore, I find that the cylinder will not come out at all without forcing it. The more I try it the more pressure is required to open the cylinder. Indivdually the parts seem to be working fine; but, I think that the head of the center pin is either getting hung up between the bolt that the thumb latch controls and the edge of the opening, or the bolt is worn to the point of not being able to press the center pin all the way clear so that the cylinder can swing out. I bought the gun new about 2 and 1/2 years ago and nary a problem until now. I would appreciate any help. Take care.
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Cylinder sticking on my S&W M60
- Thread starter Hobbes
- Start date
Mike Irwin
Staff
Hobbs,
This is going to happen again unless you take steps to secure the threads with Loctite.
Don't use the permanent Loctite, use the least agressive in case you have to have to remove the ejector rod to repair the gun at some future point.
This is going to happen again unless you take steps to secure the threads with Loctite.
Don't use the permanent Loctite, use the least agressive in case you have to have to remove the ejector rod to repair the gun at some future point.
Great!
Hobbes,
Now that we know what the problem is, you need to fix it. Mike has a good suggestion. Actually, locktite is a good fix IF you prep the piece(s) properly. There could be all sorts of oil, grease, etc. on the threads, which needs to come off before you use the Locktite product. Take the gun apart, clean the threads with some sort of degreaser, Brake or carb cleaner, or alcohol or something, just get it clean and dry. (Make sure to clean both thread surfaces, the exposed threads on the internal rod, AND the internal threads of the ejector rod sleave- use a QTip). When clean and dry, apply just a "touch" of your Locktite to the exposed threads and screw the pieces together, turn as tight as you can with your fingers. Put the piece together and let set overnight - enough time for the Locktite to set properly. I don't recommend tightening the ejector rod with plyers, if you do, use a piece of leather strap to keep the knurled end from getting buggered up.
Good luck on your project.
.......SmithNut
Hobbes,
Now that we know what the problem is, you need to fix it. Mike has a good suggestion. Actually, locktite is a good fix IF you prep the piece(s) properly. There could be all sorts of oil, grease, etc. on the threads, which needs to come off before you use the Locktite product. Take the gun apart, clean the threads with some sort of degreaser, Brake or carb cleaner, or alcohol or something, just get it clean and dry. (Make sure to clean both thread surfaces, the exposed threads on the internal rod, AND the internal threads of the ejector rod sleave- use a QTip). When clean and dry, apply just a "touch" of your Locktite to the exposed threads and screw the pieces together, turn as tight as you can with your fingers. Put the piece together and let set overnight - enough time for the Locktite to set properly. I don't recommend tightening the ejector rod with plyers, if you do, use a piece of leather strap to keep the knurled end from getting buggered up.
Good luck on your project.
.......SmithNut
Mike Irwin
Staff
WARNING!
If you DO use a pliers to tighten the ejector rod, put AT LEAST 3 empty cases in the cylinder (one in every other chamber) before doing so, and don't go nuts on trying to torque it down!
This will help prevent damage to the ejector star. In the worst case scenario (which I have seen) you could possibly damage the star so badly that it will no longer function or shear off the locator pins on the cylinder face.
When I do this I use slightly chamfered hardwood dowels that I tap into the chambers.
If you DO use a pliers to tighten the ejector rod, put AT LEAST 3 empty cases in the cylinder (one in every other chamber) before doing so, and don't go nuts on trying to torque it down!
This will help prevent damage to the ejector star. In the worst case scenario (which I have seen) you could possibly damage the star so badly that it will no longer function or shear off the locator pins on the cylinder face.
When I do this I use slightly chamfered hardwood dowels that I tap into the chambers.