OK. We are on the same page! Try this. Unload and remove the cylinder first. Using a quality set of screwdrivers, remove the gripframe screws and release the pressure on the mainspring and remove the trigger guard and drop the entire gripframe/trigger guard assemblies. You should spot a single larger head screw with a arched flat spring inside the frame. There will be a smaller screw alongside it in the frame. I suggest removing the large screw, this is what holds the pressure on the trigger and the locking bolt. This should come off a single piece. They do break and they can function even when broken in some cases. If it is still together, there is a simple improvement for the piece. You will note sharp edges and corners on the piece. Rounding these will provide longer service. Relieve the crotch between the two legs by using a rattail file to ease the sharp angle and round off the stubs of the legs. Check the bolt and if it isn't broken, reinstall the rounded spring and the bolt. Tighten the screw after dipping it in nail polish. Remove the small screw and allow the screw to fall out. Clean this area with a pipe cleaner and be alert for loose parts. A good cleaning should involve the spring and its tunnel. Apply a little Remoil or Singer sewing machine oil into the tunnel, apply a dab of white grease to the spring/parts and reinstall the screw inside the frame. Check the action without the cylinder for function. You will then move to another improvement. Remove the screw holding the mainspring to the front of the gripframe and remove the mainspring. The improvement involves a simple washer.spacer between the gripframe and the mainspring. I prefer poly plastic. This is basically a 1.8" spacer cut from a Tupperware or other brand heavy duty food container and it can be doubled for a thicker spacer. Drill it and place it between the gripframe and the mainspring and place light tension on it. Check to assure that the roller is functional under the hammer. If it is you are ready to reinstall everything. You will feel like you need three sets of hands. Place the trigger guard assembly into place and push it tight against the frame and install the screws to secure it. Tighten the mainspring against the gripframe and then reinstall the rest of the gripframe. Oil everything as normal and reinstall the grips. You should now reinstall the empty cylinder and check for function. You will notice better function and a smoother and ligher trigger. Dryfire it until you are confident with it. Check the hammer screw/bolt to be sure it is tight. You should have a 3-4 lbs trigger pull, tighter lock-up, smooth as butter function and positive igniting primers when you do fire the revolver. If parts are broken, the Sauer, Arminius, EAA, Colt and generic SAA parts should work fine. I have seen some fastdraw shooters rework their triggers down under a pound intentionally. Go slow and be careful. Old time gunfighters used to perform this modification on their SAAs using leather washers.
