Cylinder Binding - need advice

M

Mike H

New member
I recently purchased a "cheap" Rossi 4 inch .38 Special for my wife just as a range gun and plinker.

We have maybe 300 rounds through it with no problem, took it for a run out today and the ctlinder began binding in one phase of rotation.

Some careful checking revealed that the top point of one of the charge holes is lightly catching against the top of the forcing cone. It looks as if a very slight droop has taken place in the cylinder alignment, very very slight, just enough to catch the cone, the cylinder gap was pretty tight to start with which didn't help.

I think some very light sanding/polishing will put things right, a good clean almost eliminates the problem as it is. Question is, will I cause any damage if I just draw some extra fine wet'n dry over the forcing cone and cylinder face.

I don't want to go through the hassle of sending a $250 gun back to the manufacturer for a tweak if that's all that's needed.

Advice appreciated.

Thanks

Mike H
 
I DO NOT recommend removing material from the barrel.

First step is to give the cylinder a thorough cleaning underneath the ejector ratchet. Clean both the cylinder and the underside of the ratchet itself. Sometimes grit gets caught under there and and causes the cylinder to bind, usually on one chamber

Also clean the face of the cylinder and the back of the barrel.

If the gun has a mechanical problem, removing material from the back of the barrel may temporarily alleviate it, but when you do have to have it repaired it will require the barrel to be requalified, and this will cost A LOT more.

I recomend the cleaning, and if that doesn't do it, send it back. Better fixed than ruined.

BTW: I think Tauras now owns Rossi, so they will probably take care of repairs.
 
did you check to see if the ejector rod was loosening? i had 2 S&W's and a Taurus that would unwind the ejector due to extended shooting or heavy recoil. i had to tighten the Taurus every other time i shot it. this is one aspect i really like about rugers.
 
Mike,
Ditto to what both posters have said so far.
If that doesn't work, send it back. Trying to remove material while keeping the surfaces squared is a professional job.
 
Thanks guys, checking out those areas right now.

**UPDATE**

The cylinder is definitely "canted" slightly, the BC gap opens up slightly (or binds) for opposing charge holes. I can clearly see this by working the hammer while holiding a bright light behind the BC gap.

I cleaned out the area under the ejector star, and I don't see any way that the ejector rod could unscrew, but I can't be certain. It just looks as though I've shot some free play into the crane, or maybe induced a little end shake with use.

The cylinder doesn't bind unless I pull the trigger, in which case the hand (?) pushes the cylinder forward just enough to catch the forcing cone.

It's all very slight, a firm pull on the trigger unlocks things, but a 15 pound trigger pull on 2 out of 6 shots is hardly satisfactory.

Ahh well, cheap guns are cheap for a reason I guess.

Mike H
 
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You might want to try removing the cylinder from the crane, there could be some fouling in there and that could cause the cylinder to bind on only one or two chambers.
 
I had a customized Smith 629 with the exact same problem. Generally just cleaning the thing every 30 rounds was all it needed to keep from binding. I sold it to a guy who sent it to the factory where they turned the barrell in another crank and filed it down even. Why they could not do that before they shipped it, I dont have a clue.....
Ironically, it was the single most accurate firearm I ever owned too. I regret having sold it now....
 
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