I have a Brown Kevlar Pound'r blank on order and am wondering what I am in for as far as shortening the stock to the correct LOP with a recoil pad. Brown's website says that the kevlar stock blanks are more difficult to sand, machine, and finish than fiberglass, but really offers no instructions for working with the material. Has anyone here cut off a kevlar stock ? If so, what tools were used ? The blank may come with instructions, I am not sure. The kevlar pounder blank is less than half the cost of a prefinished kevlar pounder stock, which makes me think that is indeed a difficult material to work with.
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Cutting Kevlar stock
- Thread starter roklok
- Start date
Difficult, not impossible.
I do a bit of composites work in my other hobby, and kevlar isn't all that difficult to cut (or break, for that matter). Cutting with a saw might get you a ball-of-yarn effect, but alternatives like a dremel cut-off-wheel should get you through without too much trouble.
What were your plans for finishing the raw end of the stock, once you've shortened it?
I do a bit of composites work in my other hobby, and kevlar isn't all that difficult to cut (or break, for that matter). Cutting with a saw might get you a ball-of-yarn effect, but alternatives like a dremel cut-off-wheel should get you through without too much trouble.
What were your plans for finishing the raw end of the stock, once you've shortened it?
I'd rethink that. You should consider adding a layer of glass or kevlar around the end of the stock to cover the core. ACP or Soller Composistes might sell Kevlar in small enough quanities. I'd wrap it around the end and have an overlap of about .75" up the sides. We glued on our recoil pads with Goop, so you have to have an inpermiable layer there to keep the solvent in Goop from attacking the foam core.
Use good quality epoxy carefully measured. I used to weigh epoxy for small jobs but now I use separate syringes and mix to the suggested volumes- in the case of the stuff I'm using now it's 4 resin/1 hardener. it's Jeffco/Tap epoxy, which isn't the best but it's cheap.
When we did some "pounders" at the shop I worked at we tried to add as little bondo on the seams as possible, as bondo packs on the weight quickly. To finish them we'd spray with "Rocker Panel" spay and paint black.
Use good quality epoxy carefully measured. I used to weigh epoxy for small jobs but now I use separate syringes and mix to the suggested volumes- in the case of the stuff I'm using now it's 4 resin/1 hardener. it's Jeffco/Tap epoxy, which isn't the best but it's cheap.
When we did some "pounders" at the shop I worked at we tried to add as little bondo on the seams as possible, as bondo packs on the weight quickly. To finish them we'd spray with "Rocker Panel" spay and paint black.
Well, I was wondering about that, whether or not I should fill in the cut off end with something. Once I have the blank in hand I will study on that. Right now my main concern is cutting to correct length without making a mess. I thought if the recoil pad I use has a solid backing, I would not have to fill in stock, if the adhesive I use is compatible with the foam.
I am not going to add much at all to the stock, light weight is more important to me than perfect looks. I may use a a bit of acraglass to fill in voids and seams, but as little as possible. This stock is going on my sheep rifle, that sees a fair bit of use as a walking stick-climbing aid, so it will not look perfect for long anyways.
Thanks for the suggestions !
I am not going to add much at all to the stock, light weight is more important to me than perfect looks. I may use a a bit of acraglass to fill in voids and seams, but as little as possible. This stock is going on my sheep rifle, that sees a fair bit of use as a walking stick-climbing aid, so it will not look perfect for long anyways.
Thanks for the suggestions !
mapsjanhere
New member
Diamond-coated tile wet saw is the best to use for composite cutting. Dremel gets hot and gums up the disk, band saw works but the blade usually dies in short time.