Cutting down a rifle barrel
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FrankenMauser
New member
Every gunsmith has their own prices, and average prices vary in different parts of the country.
Here, a cut and crown on a common bolt action will run $100-120. Threading the muzzle typically runs $30-40 if the rifle is already getting work done; more if that's the only job. Add $25-40 if the barrel needs to be reblued (I leave the muzzles raw and just keep them oiled).
If a good crown is put on the muzzle after it is cut, the rifle is likely to shoot better than it does now.
It's always possible for performance to go to crap after barrel work, but usually that's not the case.
Here, a cut and crown on a common bolt action will run $100-120. Threading the muzzle typically runs $30-40 if the rifle is already getting work done; more if that's the only job. Add $25-40 if the barrel needs to be reblued (I leave the muzzles raw and just keep them oiled).
If a good crown is put on the muzzle after it is cut, the rifle is likely to shoot better than it does now.
It's always possible for performance to go to crap after barrel work, but usually that's not the case.
I assume a 700 sps is a Rem 700 bolt rifle. Maybe a 308 or .223? Either of those can give reasonable ballistic performance with a short barrel.
FWIW,16.5 in means the thread job has to come out good.No second chance.The 16 in min bbl length thing.
It somewhat matters what kind of lathe your smith has. A very few lathes have a big enough hole through the headstock to accept the receiver.Maybe some Colchesters.
Some may have a short enough headstock ,along with a 5C drawbar size hole through the headstock,that you can 4 jaw and spider on the barrel at 16.5 in. bbl.
But many other combinations are going to SEEM like a simple job,when setup is a headache.Sure! Anything can be done.But it takes time,and time is $.
Smiths with smaller lathes are used to "innovative setups" ,but there is more time to do it with a steady rest,or between centers,or pulling the barrel,or a few other solutions.I'd highly recommend single point threading your threads vs some thread die job,especially if you are thinking suppressor.
Talk it over with your smith.Let him make some measurements.
Its possible a little compromise on length,(say,18 in) might make the job fit his lathe. That MAY save an hour or two shop time.
Accuracy? anything is possible,but the general trend would be "shorter is stiffer" For a given contour,a shorter barrel SHOULD be more accurate.But,YMMV.
FWIW,16.5 in means the thread job has to come out good.No second chance.The 16 in min bbl length thing.
It somewhat matters what kind of lathe your smith has. A very few lathes have a big enough hole through the headstock to accept the receiver.Maybe some Colchesters.
Some may have a short enough headstock ,along with a 5C drawbar size hole through the headstock,that you can 4 jaw and spider on the barrel at 16.5 in. bbl.
But many other combinations are going to SEEM like a simple job,when setup is a headache.Sure! Anything can be done.But it takes time,and time is $.
Smiths with smaller lathes are used to "innovative setups" ,but there is more time to do it with a steady rest,or between centers,or pulling the barrel,or a few other solutions.I'd highly recommend single point threading your threads vs some thread die job,especially if you are thinking suppressor.
Talk it over with your smith.Let him make some measurements.
Its possible a little compromise on length,(say,18 in) might make the job fit his lathe. That MAY save an hour or two shop time.
Accuracy? anything is possible,but the general trend would be "shorter is stiffer" For a given contour,a shorter barrel SHOULD be more accurate.But,YMMV.
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Should be around $100 (my price)-$150. Some CNC shops do them for less. They can be dialed in quickly and the threads cut in the blink of any eye (bastards 
)
If threading for a brake, addl cost to bore the brake if required.
Barrels are always pulled (except military), I work between centers on everything- and even for those that typically work through the headstock they should have a steady to do the job if the spindle is too long.
)If threading for a brake, addl cost to bore the brake if required.
Barrels are always pulled (except military), I work between centers on everything- and even for those that typically work through the headstock they should have a steady to do the job if the spindle is too long.
Been researching it and am almost to tempted to do it myself. Obviously I would not be able to thread it but I was on the fence about threading it anyway.
Brownells sells the tools but they are expensive. Same price as what you guys have suggested the project would cost if done by a gunsmith.
Brownells sells the tools but they are expensive. Same price as what you guys have suggested the project would cost if done by a gunsmith.
"...cut down to 16.5"..." That makes the OAL 26 1/8" assuming it's a short action. I'd almost bet you'll have endless unwanted attention over that length.
And the chambering will matter. There will be a significant increase in muzzle blast and flash in any chambering. You will also lose a significant amount of velocity. Probably need a different stock as well.
"...tempted to do it myself..." Don't even think about it unless you have the right tools. A hack saw and a die are not the right tools either.
And the chambering will matter. There will be a significant increase in muzzle blast and flash in any chambering. You will also lose a significant amount of velocity. Probably need a different stock as well.
"...tempted to do it myself..." Don't even think about it unless you have the right tools. A hack saw and a die are not the right tools either.
Why the 16-1/2" length? Curious...it's rare to go under 18" in a bolt gun.
You can get a piloted crown cutter from Manson for $80. Then it comes down to how you drive it...
Chuck it in a cordless drill? Often done, with "satisfactory" results. Definitely not for a target rifle due to runout and misalignment from doing it this way- but O.K. for a plinking or hunting rifle IMO.
Unless you plan to do multiple rifles, you'll get (or should get) better results by having your smith do it for less than what you'd spend on the tooling.
You can get a piloted crown cutter from Manson for $80. Then it comes down to how you drive it...
Chuck it in a cordless drill? Often done, with "satisfactory" results. Definitely not for a target rifle due to runout and misalignment from doing it this way- but O.K. for a plinking or hunting rifle IMO.
Unless you plan to do multiple rifles, you'll get (or should get) better results by having your smith do it for less than what you'd spend on the tooling.
I'm still debating whether or not to cut down my RA Predator in .223. The .308 Predator comes in an 18", why they didn't offer the .223 in an 18" is beyond me, but whatever.
I plan to use a cut off saw, then use my Brownell's 79 degree muzzle crown cutter to finish the muzzle:
My former hog hunting partner and I did this to our Savage .22 WRM rifles. He cut his to 16.5" and I cut mine to 18"; worked pretty good and we both saw accuracy improvements.
Good luck!
I plan to use a cut off saw, then use my Brownell's 79 degree muzzle crown cutter to finish the muzzle:
My former hog hunting partner and I did this to our Savage .22 WRM rifles. He cut his to 16.5" and I cut mine to 18"; worked pretty good and we both saw accuracy improvements.
Good luck!
A workable job can be done with a hacksaw,a file,a square,and a few roundhead brass screws and some abrasive.,since you aren't treading it.
My point: I use an old WW2 vintage South Bend Heavy 10.
It has approx. 1 3/8 hole through the spindle. We have what is called a "spider" which provides a tool to center the far end of a workpiece in the spindle.A four jaw chuck provides for centering on the working end of the spindle.
We use dial indicators on both ends to get everything running true and centered before the cuts. That's just workmanship.Even if its just a cut and crown job,you want everything as true as possible.
Your receiever may not permit the barrel to fit through the spindle to allow the muzzle to be worked on.
Many smiths have smaller lathes that lack the large through hole.
So its less easy.
It may mean pulling the barrel out.IIRC,Remington at least was LocTiting the barrels in.The separate recoil lug must be indexed on re-assembly.
Time is money.What do you pay any other trade,flat rate?
The barrel vise needs a split bushing to fit your barrel.The smith may have one.He may have to make one. 20 minutes?
Setting up in the barrel vise and pulling the barrel? Its sort of a three handed job,but if it goes real easy,10 or 15 minutes?
Band or hacksaw? or parting tool? A little time.Somebody buys the saw blade.
I usually use a pin gage from a pin gage set(maybe $100) and a $140 dial indicator ,or two,to center up.I may have to change chucks,and set up the spider.So,15,maybe 20 minutes.Everything has to be clean,chipfree when you change chucks,etc.
Now,actual cut time? Set up a facing tool and face? One minute. A little chamfer,corner break,maybe some sand cloth,three minutes.
If I had to thread? I could putz around 20 minutes or half an hour to get my toolsharp and set right,set the gearbox,the compound,and just go easy,take my cuts,check my size,and check the fit.
Now,clean the oil and chips ,and re-install the barrel and torque it up.Your Rem has a washer for a recoil lug.Something else to get indexed right.
All along the way,care must be taken to not make a mark or scratch.
Taxes,bills,rent,the ffl,etc have to be paid.
Time its done ,of your $100 the smith might get enough for his wallet to buy a lousy bucket of the Colonel's chicken and a six pack of cheap beer.
(He probably would just give you raised eyebrows and a crusty look if you suggested he eats the Col's chicken.He probably does drink cheap beer)
My point: I use an old WW2 vintage South Bend Heavy 10.
It has approx. 1 3/8 hole through the spindle. We have what is called a "spider" which provides a tool to center the far end of a workpiece in the spindle.A four jaw chuck provides for centering on the working end of the spindle.
We use dial indicators on both ends to get everything running true and centered before the cuts. That's just workmanship.Even if its just a cut and crown job,you want everything as true as possible.
Your receiever may not permit the barrel to fit through the spindle to allow the muzzle to be worked on.
Many smiths have smaller lathes that lack the large through hole.
So its less easy.
It may mean pulling the barrel out.IIRC,Remington at least was LocTiting the barrels in.The separate recoil lug must be indexed on re-assembly.
Time is money.What do you pay any other trade,flat rate?
The barrel vise needs a split bushing to fit your barrel.The smith may have one.He may have to make one. 20 minutes?
Setting up in the barrel vise and pulling the barrel? Its sort of a three handed job,but if it goes real easy,10 or 15 minutes?
Band or hacksaw? or parting tool? A little time.Somebody buys the saw blade.
I usually use a pin gage from a pin gage set(maybe $100) and a $140 dial indicator ,or two,to center up.I may have to change chucks,and set up the spider.So,15,maybe 20 minutes.Everything has to be clean,chipfree when you change chucks,etc.
Now,actual cut time? Set up a facing tool and face? One minute. A little chamfer,corner break,maybe some sand cloth,three minutes.
If I had to thread? I could putz around 20 minutes or half an hour to get my toolsharp and set right,set the gearbox,the compound,and just go easy,take my cuts,check my size,and check the fit.
Now,clean the oil and chips ,and re-install the barrel and torque it up.Your Rem has a washer for a recoil lug.Something else to get indexed right.
All along the way,care must be taken to not make a mark or scratch.
Taxes,bills,rent,the ffl,etc have to be paid.
Time its done ,of your $100 the smith might get enough for his wallet to buy a lousy bucket of the Colonel's chicken and a six pack of cheap beer.
(He probably would just give you raised eyebrows and a crusty look if you suggested he eats the Col's chicken.He probably does drink cheap beer)
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The 223 compact comes with an 18" barrel. I bought the 1st one I saw before the Predator was available. The stock is a little short, but usable as is. I did eventually order a full length stock for it, about $80 IIRC.
They also offer the Ranch rifle now with a 16" barrel in 5.56 and 300AAC
Bill DeShivs
New member
Our resident Canadian commenter has trouble understanding US laws.
Something is either illegal or legal. There is no grey area.
The OP's gun falls into the "legal" area.
It doesn't matter how long the barreled action is-only the oal with the stock.
Something is either illegal or legal. There is no grey area.
The OP's gun falls into the "legal" area.
It doesn't matter how long the barreled action is-only the oal with the stock.
Gunplummer
New member
Most of my hunting guns are cut short. One of the most accurate rifles I own is a 7x57 with a 18 1/4" barrel. It really has a muzzle blast, but that is about the only difference I see. I have often taken a reamer and slightly counter bored the muzzle. Use a reamer a little bigger than the grooves. Many military guns are done this way to avoid the nicks that influence accuracy.
Sure Shot Mc Gee
New member
I had a co-worker who had his Model 700 ADL 270 barrel cut to 18". He often told me afterwards he was sorry he ever had it done. Lost accuracy was a real concern. Which caused He & I to look for another sweet spot hand loading. (his preferred powders of choice were Hercules and mine was Dupont)
Never found that new sweet spot. But we did get his 270 to target reasonably OK to 100 yards. Muzzle flash galore and overwhelming loud was two of the 270s downsides we couldn't cure. No doubt his 270 now lacks the long distance accuracy it once had.
I think if someone was considering doing the same as my friend. "Just a thought." _ Maybe a noted efficient cartridge would make a better candidate for such barrel cuts. 270 Winchester surely wasn't.
Never found that new sweet spot. But we did get his 270 to target reasonably OK to 100 yards. Muzzle flash galore and overwhelming loud was two of the 270s downsides we couldn't cure. No doubt his 270 now lacks the long distance accuracy it once had.
I think if someone was considering doing the same as my friend. "Just a thought." _ Maybe a noted efficient cartridge would make a better candidate for such barrel cuts. 270 Winchester surely wasn't.
Gunplummer
New member
Not everybody has the eye for it, but I would check if the bore was straight first. Many a small caliber rifle barrel is not drilled straight or straightened before the final OD sizing. I bought two new barrels from a maker whose name pops up on this forum a lot. The first barrel had a multiple curved bore and when I shortened it the bore at the muzzle was off center. The barrel was already contoured and could not be straightened. I sent it back and was sent another barrel. Same thing. They said send it back, but I was done with them. A barrel with a curve will usually shoot OK, if the curve is lost before it enters the muzzle. Just something else to check.
Bill DeShivs
New member
Barrel length has nothing to do with accuracy.
If you think a shorter gun will work better for you I would suggest you just buy a shorter gun. You never have stated what caliber your rifle is. That can make a difference if this is really a feasible choice. My buddy has an older remington carbine with a 20" barrel in 30-06 and there is a noticeable difference between that and my 22" barreled 30-06 in blast.
And if the woods are so thick and wooly that you need a shorter gun so you can sneak up on deer you are kidding yourself. If the woods are that thick you will never sneak up on a deer. I have tried many times and only saw tracks where they left the area.
Remember our ancestors hunted the thick eastern woods with Kentucky and Pennsylvania rifles that were close to 5' long and shot out all the buffalo, elk and most of the whitetailed deer. It wasn't the gun, it was that fact that they knew how to hunt. You learned to hunt or you went hungry.
And if the woods are so thick and wooly that you need a shorter gun so you can sneak up on deer you are kidding yourself. If the woods are that thick you will never sneak up on a deer. I have tried many times and only saw tracks where they left the area.
Remember our ancestors hunted the thick eastern woods with Kentucky and Pennsylvania rifles that were close to 5' long and shot out all the buffalo, elk and most of the whitetailed deer. It wasn't the gun, it was that fact that they knew how to hunt. You learned to hunt or you went hungry.
I assume this rifle is a 308 or a 223.Either of those is of OK porportions to work reasonably well in a shorter barrel.
.270's,7mm Rem,etc burn slower powders,generally,and need a little longer barrel to be efficient. With carbine length barrels a chronograph will show that a 7mm-08 does not give up too much to a 7mm Rem Mag.The Mag advantage opens up with a 24 to 26 in bbl
A number of factors influence accuracy.Some have been discussed.Here is one more.
Bore dimensions vary some.You can have tight spots and loose spots.
A barrel that has a tight spot at the muzzle,like a choked shotgun,can shoot very well.
If shortening the barrel results in the new muzzle being in a loose spot,accuracy will likely suffer.
If you do commit to shortening the barrel,You might try cutting it an inch at a time.No need to get fancy,file it square and see how it feels.You may find,for example,that 21 in just feels "right" Then crown it.
A 16 in bbl can be extremely accurate,but it gives up some velocity and "shootability"
.270's,7mm Rem,etc burn slower powders,generally,and need a little longer barrel to be efficient. With carbine length barrels a chronograph will show that a 7mm-08 does not give up too much to a 7mm Rem Mag.The Mag advantage opens up with a 24 to 26 in bbl
A number of factors influence accuracy.Some have been discussed.Here is one more.
Bore dimensions vary some.You can have tight spots and loose spots.
A barrel that has a tight spot at the muzzle,like a choked shotgun,can shoot very well.
If shortening the barrel results in the new muzzle being in a loose spot,accuracy will likely suffer.
If you do commit to shortening the barrel,You might try cutting it an inch at a time.No need to get fancy,file it square and see how it feels.You may find,for example,that 21 in just feels "right" Then crown it.
A 16 in bbl can be extremely accurate,but it gives up some velocity and "shootability"