Cutting Back Savage Accustock

U

USAF Ret

New member
I want to add a better recoil pad to my Savage 111. Right now the length of pull is right at the limit with my short and stubby arms. I have had wood stocks cut back in the past. Can a gunsmith cut back a fiberglass stock for LOP adjustments? I have heard many are hollow inside.
 
Last edited:
Can be done !!!

I want to add a better recoil pad to my Savage 111.
Click to expand...
You have the long action and I'm more familiar with the short action. I have shortened fiberglass stocks as well as other synthetics. In short, it can be done but the devil is in the details. "Someone" will have to figure out the best way. In some cases I make inserts/blocks on hollow stocks. I do not know what kind of pad you are going to install but I mostly use Pachmayer or however you spell that. .... :confused:

Be Safe !!!
 
Pahoo said:
You have the long action and I'm more familiar with the short action. I have shortened fiberglass stocks as well as other synthetics. In short, it can be done but the devil is in the details. "Someone" will have to figure out the best way. In some cases I make inserts/blocks on hollow stocks. I do not know what kind of pad you are going to install but I mostly use Pachmayer or however you spell that. .... :confused:

Be Safe !!!
Click to expand...
Actually it is a short action. I think the 11. 6.5 Creedmoor.
 
Very few rifles come from the factory with fiberglass stocks. Most are injection molded plastic. Are you certain it is fiberglass? If it is they CAN be cut some shorter, but the amount you can cut off is limited. I'd contact the stock manufacturer for advice. Some companies use HS-Precision and a few McMillan and that is who I'd be seeking advice from before I ruined a $400-$600 stock.

If it is injection molded it is a LOT harder, but can be done. A wooden plug cut to the exact dimensions needs to be epoxied into the opening so you have something to attach the recoil pad or butt plate to. If you ruin one of these they can usually be replaced for around $100 or less. They turn up used quite often for $25 or so when someone takes one off to go with an aftermarket stock.

Most of the manufacturers offer a shorter "youth" stock at a decent price and that may be a better option.
 
The savage Accustock is an aluminum chassis wrapped in injection molded plastic. If you shorten the LOP you'll loose the screw attachments for the recoil pad. This doesn't mean it can't be done, I paid to have a similar stock cut down to fit my daughter when she started shooting. It was actually cheaper than buying a new youth stock from Savage.

The guy that did the work epoxied in a 3/8 plywood piece that fit flush with the stock and gave the screws something to attach to. He then fitted a new recoil pad to the stock, cost me $90 for parts and labor. Savage wanted over $130 for a youth stock.
 
taylorce1 said:
The savage Accustock is an aluminum chassis wrapped in injection molded plastic. If you shorten the LOP you'll loose the screw attachments for the recoil pad. This doesn't mean it can't be done, I paid to have a similar stock cut down to fit my daughter when she started shooting. It was actually cheaper than buying a new youth stock from Savage.

The guy that did the work epoxied in a 3/8 plywood piece that fit flush with the stock and gave the screws something to attach to. He then fitted a new recoil pad to the stock, cost me $90 for parts and labor. Savage wanted over $130 for a youth stock.
Click to expand...
Good info. Thinking I am just going to wait and spend my money on a Boyd's stock. That way I can just get them to install the recoil pad I want.
 
USAFret. I think you are doing the right thing. Also you can sell the Accustock to recover back some of the funds you spent on the Boyd's stock.
 
After it is cut, you just need to fab up some kind of recoil pad attachments. My first attempt would be to grind down the current butt plate to be epoxied into the stock. Then attach butt pad to it.


If that layout is NG, you can buy PE sheet at like .25" thick to begged into the butt you should also be able to find inserts on ebay So you have a solid pad mount.
 
Number of teeth ??

Three seconds on my radial saw and Zip! done.
Click to expand...
stagpanther
I know that on a synthetic, it might be immaterial but asking how many teeth on your saw blade. I use a jig for my 10" miter/Chop saw and the number of teeth is important when cutting a Walnut/wooden stock. ..... :confused:

Be Safe
 
Last edited:
I've done 4 savage tupperware stocks--I want to say a fine tooth finishing blade would do the trick (if not a fine carbide tip I'm sure would do the trick)--you might get some heat beading up of the palstic on the cut edges--but I just sand down on a finishing sanding disk anyway--I'm too lazy to do accurate measurements so it will take a bit of sanding to get a symetric line-up with the buttpad. You may need to sand the plug portion of the buttpad that fits inside the stock end to fit the narrower circumference of the stock once you've shortened it. I'd recommend taking the stock down in increments to check the LOP you want.

Because the circumference of the stock end will likely be less than that of the butpad depending on how much you lop off--you may need to sand down a "step-down" from the buttpad to the stock. It definitely does not look like pristine shop gun--but I don't care since I generally paint a camo finish over the whole mess when I'm done. The accustock is stiffer than the "standard" tupperware like you might find on the axis--I usually also fill the foreend gaps in front of the recoil lug slot with RC 7 to stiffen it up--then grind the barrel channels back just a touch. passes my free-float test if I can rest the rifle on just a bipod attached to the front swivel and slip a dollar bill up and down the barrel without hanging on the stock.

It's not as complicated as it sounds--in fact it will be kind of obvious as you go. All the rifles I've done this to shoot great--but I wouldn't call them a reseller's dream gun fix.;) Like I said--I don't think much of the tupperware stocks to begin with--so from my perspective it's a " so-what" if it doesn't look pretty--I'm just going to bash it up in the woods anyway. Even if you totally goof up you give yourself a good excuse to buy a fancy chmancy new boyd's stock. I haven't goofed one up yet--and believe me I'm no skilled gunsmith (which also means YRMV).
 
Tooth count.

I want to say a fine tooth finishing blade would do the trick
Click to expand...
I Guess I did not state my question, correctly. So ... What is the tooth count on your blade? When you get time, take a look if you would. ...... :)

Be Safe !!!
 
I Guess I did not state my question, correctly. So ... What is the tooth count on your blade? When you get time, take a look if you would. ......
Click to expand...
To answer honestly--haven't a clue--been a while since I did it and I have a wood shop filled with dozens of blades and many saws. Sorry 'bout that. Maybe just use a hack saw if in doubt--I doubt it would take all that long--or test it on real tupperware. ;) Personally--if you're not willing to accept possibly ruining the stock--I wouldn't do it and would totally ignore what I said above. I did it no problem--and I'm about as inept as any tool user can be.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top