Good afternoon Gentlemen! So I have been working on my own 1911 made from an investment casting, got a great set of 3D solid models and blueprints from RifleConnection.com so I could add my own picatinny rail under the barrel and make a few modifications (really cool stuff on their site by the way), but my next step is to cut the barrel seat with a radiused ball end mill, what is the best way to control the depth of this if you do not have any read outs on the mill?
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Cutting 1911 Barrel Seat - First 1911 build
- Thread starter cncguy
- Start date
Gunplummer
New member
Attach an indicator.
dakota.potts
New member
Your mill doesn't have graduated collars on the adjustments?
I agree that a dial indicator is the best way to go. On a lathe it's easy enough to set a drop indicator on the ways and load it off of the carriage. You may have to get slightly more creative on the mill. An indicol style base attached to the quill and loaded off of the vise may be one way to set it up.
I agree that a dial indicator is the best way to go. On a lathe it's easy enough to set a drop indicator on the ways and load it off of the carriage. You may have to get slightly more creative on the mill. An indicol style base attached to the quill and loaded off of the vise may be one way to set it up.
Gunplummer
New member
I was guessing his mill had no knee on it.
Not having a knee is very possible.Some of the small mills re bed mills.
I am a little curious as to why you need to cut the barrel bed.I'm not saying it never occurs,I had to do it myself,once.I did it because a replacement barrel I bought was larger in diameter at the breech than the original.
I will suggest you study very carefully,and truly understand why you are cutting it.
I recommend getting both Kuhnhausen manuals,and really follow them to re-enforce your approach.
Sometimes the vertical impact faces of the frame or barrel foot have to be adjusted,BUT,in Kuhnhausen,there are detailed dimension drawings.INSPECT!! Find what is out of spec,exactly before you cut.
As I have said before,despite the apparent simplicity,there is a finely choreographed dance going on when a 1911 cycles.Relationsips,and every change effects a chain of events.
The surface you mention is involved with those vertical surfaces.It has a relationship with the axis of the slide stop,where the chamber end of the barrel approaches the feed ramp,the links,linkdown,clearing the locking lugs from the slide....Be careful!!
Among other things,there is an approx. .700 dia bore through the slide.
When the breech end of the barrel rests on that bed,the barrel should be co-axial with the bore in the slide.Remember,the barrel bushing travels the barrel.
Now,setting up to control your "Z" axis.
Readout? In the 70's,80's,and into the 90's ,we had no "Z" readouts.
Do you have a crank with a graduated dial for "Z" feed? Yes/No?
The suggestions about an indicator are good.A magnetic base or any thing that will hold an indicator can be attached to the part of the mill that holds still.
The contact point can be on any machined surface of the part of the mill that moves down.
UNLESS! All you have is quill feed.
Then I would say,first determine if your quill stop repeats,or is ir mushy.
When I needed to have a really solid quill stop,I would face lengths of tubing ,maybe 5/8 in ID? or so,and cut the side out with an end millso I could insert it around the quill stop screw.The bottom of it rested on the main head casting,and I would bring the quill stop down on top of it tight.
Rock solid "Z" stop. Eliminates the mush of the "Z" power feed kick-out.
Of couse ,if its a knee mill,just crank the knee up.
Tell us more about what you have to work with
I am a little curious as to why you need to cut the barrel bed.I'm not saying it never occurs,I had to do it myself,once.I did it because a replacement barrel I bought was larger in diameter at the breech than the original.
I will suggest you study very carefully,and truly understand why you are cutting it.
I recommend getting both Kuhnhausen manuals,and really follow them to re-enforce your approach.
Sometimes the vertical impact faces of the frame or barrel foot have to be adjusted,BUT,in Kuhnhausen,there are detailed dimension drawings.INSPECT!! Find what is out of spec,exactly before you cut.
As I have said before,despite the apparent simplicity,there is a finely choreographed dance going on when a 1911 cycles.Relationsips,and every change effects a chain of events.
The surface you mention is involved with those vertical surfaces.It has a relationship with the axis of the slide stop,where the chamber end of the barrel approaches the feed ramp,the links,linkdown,clearing the locking lugs from the slide....Be careful!!
Among other things,there is an approx. .700 dia bore through the slide.
When the breech end of the barrel rests on that bed,the barrel should be co-axial with the bore in the slide.Remember,the barrel bushing travels the barrel.
Now,setting up to control your "Z" axis.
Readout? In the 70's,80's,and into the 90's ,we had no "Z" readouts.
Do you have a crank with a graduated dial for "Z" feed? Yes/No?
The suggestions about an indicator are good.A magnetic base or any thing that will hold an indicator can be attached to the part of the mill that holds still.
The contact point can be on any machined surface of the part of the mill that moves down.
UNLESS! All you have is quill feed.
Then I would say,first determine if your quill stop repeats,or is ir mushy.
When I needed to have a really solid quill stop,I would face lengths of tubing ,maybe 5/8 in ID? or so,and cut the side out with an end millso I could insert it around the quill stop screw.The bottom of it rested on the main head casting,and I would bring the quill stop down on top of it tight.
Rock solid "Z" stop. Eliminates the mush of the "Z" power feed kick-out.
Of couse ,if its a knee mill,just crank the knee up.
Tell us more about what you have to work with
Gunplummer
New member
I just assumed he was starting with a receiver blank. Maybe not.